When I recently purchased my TT that included a NAPA Battery - Marine Starting - Universal BCI #24M Battery PART # BAT 8304https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBE8304I was told it was a deep cycle battery. Given that it is a "starting" battery and it says nothing about being a deep cycle battery I have my doubts.What are the downsides of this battery?I know they are not meant to discharge to any great degree. They are starting batteries so they can provide starting power. My guess is that it won't last as long.The RV dealer is out of state, but I am considering requesting that they set up a way for me to return it to a local NAPA.Any other thoughts?Thanks so much!Richard

It is a hybrid battery. To get a true deep cycle you will have to go to two 6V golf cart batteries. But unless you do a lot if boon docking keep what you got and font worry about it. It will give you several years of service with proper care.

Thanks Don! That is a more positive battery than I expected.My best,Richard

donn0128 wrote:It is a hybrid battery. To get a true deep cycle you will have to go to two 6V golf cart batteries. But unless you do a lot if boon docking keep what you got and font worry about it. It will give you several years of service with proper care.There are true 12 volt deep cycle batteries. They are often referred to as trolling motor batteries.Two 6 volt deep cycles will have a higher amp hour rating than a single 12 volt.

I use a lot of batteries,in boats short story , buy 12v deep cycle marine batteries, yours is not . for just the avg guy two deep cycles from wal mart will last a long time.I have two in my rv 5yrs old and three in one of my boats 6yrs old and still test good. I DO put them on a battery tender after each use. battery maint is a must for long life.

Most RVs are sold with a similar group 24 hybrid battery. They also do just fine for most owners because they always camp with hook ups.Whether or not this battery works well for you depends on your use. You didn't say how you will be camping.

Deep Cycle Battery??? | Good Sam Community

Jennifer_Koper
Explorer
Dec 06, 2019
So far I know two types of deep cycle batteries available in the market and as well have good acceptance to the customer as on below.
>> Flooded deep cycle batteries
>> Sealed deep cycle batteries
but I have little confusion within this options as per features!
drsteve
Explorer
Dec 05, 2019
gmw photos wrote:
I took possession of my 2012 funfinder on Nov 15, 2011. The trailer has a AGM "marine starting battery". It's been charged by the much maligned WFCO converter/charger. The battery is still in there, and still holds a charge.

My WFCO must be the "only" (LOL) good WFCO in existence, as I have seen it charge at over 14V, also it drops to 13.2 to 13.0 after about a day or day and half. 13.6 is it's mid-level. If the battery is not run down a whole lot, it simply starts out it's charge cycle at 13.6. Here I am, 8 years on, I'm happy with that.

As others have said, your discharge strategy needs to be smart. Do some reading on what parasitic draws you may have, and address those if needed.

EDIT: I put one of those little voltminder gadgets in the trailer to keep an eye on battery voltage. It plugs in to the 12 cig lighter power port.

They have improved. The older ones were notorious for poor charge control, but the WFCO in my 2018 Coachmen seems to do what it's supposed to do.
Vintage465
Nomad
Dec 05, 2019
And one more thing to add to your things to think about is:
1. When someone says "Solar" it can mean different things to different people. When someone says solar can't keep up, to me it means "their solar" can't keep up. There are so many different solar set ups and darned near all of them are junk when it comes to real charging. I am a big fan of solar and not a fan at all of generators(though I do carry one for emergencies). I can say pretty surely that all the factory installed set ups are really a waste of money if you really want to use your furnace at night in 10-30 degree temps then hope to harvest from the sun in the day time. There is a lot of great info out there on how to set up a great solar system that can harvest and charge even on pretty cloudy days(not dark rain cloudy days....)As stated in another post on this thread, there is not a one size fits all. It takes a fair amount of research and thought and if I were you and thinking of solar:
1. Build big, use hefty conductors, like #4 and #2
2. Get an MPPT type controller and install it as close to the battery bank as possible. Not in the cabinet over the bed like the RV manufacturers do.
3. Get panels that have the highest wattage(most important)and smallest foot print(not as important as highest wattage)
4. I wouldn't let a dealer install it unless they have a reputation as solar experts and have a proven track record.
Huntindog
Explorer
Nov 29, 2019
gmw photos wrote:
I took possession of my 2012 funfinder on Nov 15, 2011. The trailer has a AGM "marine starting battery". It's been charged by the much maligned WFCO converter/charger. The battery is still in there, and still holds a charge.

My WFCO must be the "only" (LOL) good WFCO in existence, as I have seen it charge at over 14V, also it drops to 13.2 to 13.0 after about a day or day and half. 13.6 is it's mid-level. If the battery is not run down a whole lot, it simply starts out it's charge cycle at 13.6. Here I am, 8 years on, I'm happy with that.

As others have said, your discharge strategy needs to be smart. Do some reading on what parasitic draws you may have, and address those if needed.

EDIT: I put one of those little voltminder gadgets in the trailer to keep an eye on battery voltage. It plugs in to the 12 cig lighter power port.
Mine is stuck at 13.6. I really don't care about the boost mode that much. But it will not go into float/13.2 ever. In AZ, it boils the water away in the summer. I no longer use it for that.
gmw_photos
Explorer
Nov 29, 2019
I took possession of my 2012 funfinder on Nov 15, 2011. The trailer has a AGM "marine starting battery". It's been charged by the much maligned WFCO converter/charger. The battery is still in there, and still holds a charge.

My WFCO must be the "only" (LOL) good WFCO in existence, as I have seen it charge at over 14V, also it drops to 13.2 to 13.0 after about a day or day and half. 13.6 is it's mid-level. If the battery is not run down a whole lot, it simply starts out it's charge cycle at 13.6. Here I am, 8 years on, I'm happy with that.

As others have said, your discharge strategy needs to be smart. Do some reading on what parasitic draws you may have, and address those if needed.

EDIT: I put one of those little voltminder gadgets in the trailer to keep an eye on battery voltage. It plugs in to the 12 cig lighter power port.
Huntindog
Explorer
Nov 29, 2019
SoundGuy wrote:
full_mosey wrote:
I read here very often that the WFCO charger dries out regular flooded batteries(FLA) which results in exposed plates and permanent damage or destruction.

Is there any situation where the WFCO's 13.6V could cause an AGM to vent and dry out?

I don't see how a WFCO could dry out any battery as it rarely if ever bulk charges at it's claimed 14.4 volt bulk charge voltage :B
This depends on where you live.
In Phoenix AZ, my WFCO will dry out golf cart 6 volt batteries as 13.6 V (where it seems to always be) is too much when the tempertures get over 110 pretty often.
In Ontario...probably not a problem.
full_mosey
Explorer
Feb 15, 2017
It is settled then. An AGM battery like the DEKA 31 is a drop-in replacement and the worst the WFCO can do is UNDER-charge.

Get a portable regular automotive charger that can do 14.4V and use that to give the DEKA a decent top charge.

I would let the WFCO run as usual, but periodically use the portable.

HTH;
John
SoundGuy
Explorer
Feb 15, 2017
full_mosey wrote:
I read here very often that the WFCO charger dries out regular flooded batteries(FLA) which results in exposed plates and permanent damage or destruction.

Is there any situation where the WFCO's 13.6V could cause an AGM to vent and dry out?

I don't see how a WFCO could dry out any battery as it rarely if ever bulk charges at it's claimed 14.4 volt bulk charge voltage ... the most I've ever seen from mine at the battery terminals is ~ 13.72 volts. Undercharging a depleted battery, AGM or flooded, however will lead to excessive sulfation and ultimately premature death. For those of us who normally camp on electric sites and therefore rarely deep discharge the battery this isn't much of an issue as the battery is as likely to die of old age. My own 9 yr old flooded G27 Interstate is a case in point, has always been maintained by WFCO converters but still holds a full charge just fine and rarely requires watering ... but it also rarely see deep discharge. That said, this past fall I turned my current WFCO off permanently and now use a CTEK portable charger that does do a proper 14.4 volt bulk charge and lo & behold the battery is now performing even better ... after surface charge wears off it holds ~ 12.82 volts unloaded for weeks while sitting on my workbench. :B
full_mosey
Explorer
Feb 15, 2017
I read here very often that the WFCO charger dries out regular flooded batteries(FLA) which results in exposed plates and permanent damage or destruction.

Is there any situation where the WFCO's 13.6V could cause an AGM to vent and dry out?

HTH;
John
SoundGuy
Explorer
Feb 15, 2017
From the East Penn AGM Technical Manual ...

... considerable difference in appropriate charge voltages as temperature changes, even between 32F and 90F which many of us would typically camp in. :E

Is AGM temp compensated charging important? ... no doubt in my mind. ;)