Eaz-Lift Weight Distribution Set Up

I'm confused why it would come off if it is indeed hooked? FYI, I use the trailer jack to raise mine high enough to remove all tension when hooking up which may eliminate this issue for you as well.

fla-gypsy wrote:
I'm confused why it would come off if it is indeed hooked? FYI, I use the trailer jack to raise mine high enough to remove all tension when hooking up which may eliminate this issue for you as well.

There are two grooves in the "hook" that your chain attaches too. Once I apply pressure to the chain, the chain wants to slip off the "hook".

bgradert wrote:

fla-gypsy wrote:
I'm confused why it would come off if it is indeed hooked? FYI, I use the trailer jack to raise mine high enough to remove all tension when hooking up which may eliminate this issue for you as well.

There are two grooves in the "hook" that your chain attaches too. Once I apply pressure to the chain, the chain wants to slip off the "hook".

You need to raise it higher using the tongue jack.

I felt like I went up pretty high with it last time I tried hooking it up. I can try to raise it higher if that is what it takes.

If you go to eazlift website you can download very good instructions. It involves getting your trailer level, measure the tongue height, set you ball height equal or up to 3/4" higher than tongue, MEASURE FRONT AND REAR BUMPER HEIGHT, connect truck to trailer, raise hitch about 3" above level, grab all of the chain you can get, lower hitch.

Now measure you rear and front bumper again. You should be no more than about 1/2" lower in rear, and no more than 1/2" higher in front (if memory serves). My truck squatted 1/4" in the rear and +/- zero in the front.

If the third link is needed to get the front of the truck back down to where it's needed, then jack it up. I used to carry a black just for that reason. Less jacking.

"I felt like I went up pretty high with it last time I tried hooking it up. I can try to raise it higher if that is what it takes."

hohenwald48 wrote:

bgradert wrote:

fla-gypsy wrote:
I'm confused why it would come off if it is indeed hooked? FYI, I use the trailer jack to raise mine high enough to remove all tension when hooking up which may eliminate this issue for you as well.

There are two grooves in the "hook" that your chain attaches too. Once I apply pressure to the chain, the chain wants to slip off the "hook".

You need to raise it higher using the tongue jack.

I've heard of folks who claim they have to raise it so much the rear wheels of the TV come off the ground.

If that's the case, something isn't set up right. Or there's WAY too much tongue weight. LOL

bgradert wrote:
Eaz-Lift weight distribution hitch..... I have traded trucks ....When on level ground, the front level indicator on the coach shows the trailer nearly level.

When I hook up my chains, I go down three links. There is some tension on the chains but nothing like what it was with my old truck. I try to go to the fourth link which I can easily hook the link to the bracket however, the tension of the chain as I lift up on the bracket arm causes the chain to slip off. This causes me to back to the third link on the chain.

First, don't trust the level indicator. When setting up a WD hitch you need too measure the trailer frame to the ground and ensure the frame is parallel. Getting the trailer 'level' can mislead you. Making the trailer 'level' does nothing for spring bar chain tension, it is only to get the hitch head height set properly so the trailer is not nose up or down while towing.

Setting up any hitch takes these steps:
1) Measure trailer frame to the ground and adjust jack until the frame is parallel to the ground.
2) Measure from the ground to the top of the hitch coupler.
3) Insert hitch into truck receiver. Measure from the top of the hitch ball to the ground. You're good if the height matches the trailer coupler height within 1/2" inch or so. If not you'll need to move the head tip or down on the shank. The bolt hole spacing on the shank is in 1 1/4" increments.
4) As mentioned, measure the front wheel wells of the truck without the trailer connected.
5) Connect the trailer without WD bars. Use enough links until the WD bars are parallel to the trailer frame. and measure the wheel wells again.
6) If the wheel wells return to unloaded height you're all set. If the wheel wells are higher, you need to adjust the hitch head. You'll need to dismantle the hitch and put more washers between the button bolt and the head to give it more initial tilt. Hook up to the trailer again and re-measure the wheel wells. Repeat until you have it all set.

Tilting the hitch head back will cause the ends of the spring bars to point further down. When you snatch up the chains using the same number of links to make the bars parallel it causes more force to transfer through the truck frame and put more pressure on the front wheels. This is when you know you're getting good distribution.

KJ

Great info everyone. I will double check it with the instructions you all mention. Many thanks!