Electric heaters

pianotuna wrote:
Fast but not so safe.

https://youtu.be/3wcdblWPGKE

Very misleading post - that is a totally different connection and no one is suggesting that type be used in a RV (because of vibration).

But if you want to see a real current loading comparison using the same type of connection you showed:
link

( I can save you some time, the connection you showed is actually better than the wire itself. The wire burns in half first)

Fast but not so safe.

https://youtu.be/3wcdblWPGKE

dfm wrote:
We have been using a Vornado electric heater for the past several years. It circulates the heat very well with a large, quiet fan, and has a thermostat and adjustable heat output. We have been very pleased with its' performance during temps down to as low as the high 30's in our 30ft trailer. You can barely hear the fan running when it is on high position.

X2

X3
A high quality heater costs more, but once you use one you know it is money well spent.

Great advice.

Lynnmor wrote:
I got rid of my insulation displacement connectors and sleep very well knowing that the wiring is held in place by being wrapped around a screw and tightened. Jamming a copper wire into a slot makes for a connection dependent on a sheared edge holding it with just the spring tension of the part. I took my own good advice and took out the trash.

I got rid of my insulation displacement connectors and sleep very well knowing that the wiring is held in place by being wrapped around a screw and tightened. Jamming a copper wire into a slot makes for a connection dependent on a sheared edge holding it with just the spring tension of the part. I took my own good advice and took out the trash.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi ScottG,

That is truly bad advice. Have you actually inspected a stab connector after it has been used for 1 month of constant use? I have, and it isn't pretty.

The stab connectors are garbage. Get rid of them if it is possible.

ScottG wrote:
Never had any problems with the so-called "Stab connectors" in any RV and running a space heater. Been doing so for a couple of decades and never had one get warm. They are UL and CSA rated for the full load just like normal residential outlets and there are 10's of millions of RV's using them without issue.
So I would not worry about changing the outlets, just monitor for heat like you should with any space heater.

No it's realistic advice and not just old forum wives tales.
And yes, I have taken apart one of those outlets that I used for years to power a space heater. I did so in order to add another outlet.
Our new TT has them as well. Ran the heater last season and kept checking the outlet. It was never even warm and this was in a slideout.
DO you realize that commercial buildings use a very similar connection for everything? No problems there either.
And I can posts pics all day of normal outlets that have overheated - proves nothing.
The proof is in the fact that forum members use them every single day without issue.

It's very bad advice to tell people to just get rid of them since there is no acceptable way to replace them with common outlets in most cases.

We have been using a Vornado electric heater for the past several years. It circulates the heat very well with a large, quiet fan, and has a thermostat and adjustable heat output. We have been very pleased with its' performance during temps down to as low as the high 30's in our 30ft trailer. You can barely hear the fan running when it is on high position.

X2

ScottG wrote:
Never had any problems with the so-called "Stab connectors" in any RV and running a space heater. Been doing so for a couple of decades and never had one get warm. They are UL and CSA rated for the full load just like normal residential outlets and there are 10's of millions of RV's using them without issue.
So I would not worry about changing the outlets, just monitor for heat like you should with any space heater.

^^^ I completely agree with this. The problem is not with these SCD "self-contained receptacles" in themselves. There's millions of them out there in mobile homes without issue in addition to being installed in RVs.

The problem is that the factories sometimes don't install them properly according to the manufacturer's directions. I've had some in 3 TTs now that only had 1/2 the internal "stab" connections on the hot and/or neutral plus I found 2 in our current TT with reversed polarity. There is a special tool for punching down the wires onto the stabs. You can use a screwdriver and/or pliers to push the wires in but you have to be very careful. The cover on the back can be a challenge to get full on also. The photo below is what I found in a previous TT and it and any downstream recepts. are only good for 7 1/2 amps. The installer clearly did not use the SCD tool. :M These recepts. are NOT for amateur wannabe electricians. Unless you pull yours out for inspection, you'll have no idea if they were correctly installed.

A real problem with electrical in RVs as I see it is that, although all electrical work must comply with the NEC and various associated standards and regulations, there is no oversight by an AHJ and there is nobody to file a complaint with if you find problems. Therefore the factories can turn out unacceptable workmanship without impunity and which in some cases can even be dangerous.

Having said the above, it is possible it's better and safer to plug a heater into an RV type recept. that is maybe the 1st or 2nd in line on a circuit. You'd need to pull all recepts. on a circuit out to figure that out tho. A heater (depending on wattage) is going to be better off on a dedicated circuit and if you're going to install a new recept., might as well go with a residential side-wired type in a box, if you have depth for the box for piece of mind. A hardwired heater would of course be best.

IMO, the SCD type receptacles are better than the common residential ones where you strip a wire and push it into a hole.

Our TT is 10 years old and we have never had any electrical receptacle issues with hair dryers, micro waves, toasters, coffee makers etc. in any of the outlets.

The RV industry has enough issues without inventing more. That is like blaming the toilet maker because the worker used too long of a down tube and it would not flush properly.

With regards to the OPs question, I believe our electric ceramic heater cost around $20.00 so trying one is not going to break the bank.

As mentioned the oil filled unit are nice but a bit bulky for our under the table use.

We did not have a problem with the electric plugs in our trailer getting warm but with all the cool weather we had down in Florida several years ago we needed a way to run our electric heater without going through the trailers electrical system. I put in a waterproof outside receptical and an inside outlet in the side of our slide out. Now we can run the electric heater or other higher usage items like toaster or frying pan without worrying about tripping the trailers breaker when we turn on the water heater or air conditioner at the same time.
Works great!

The device that I used was this one from West Marine.
Barney





Quite a simple mod.

1. I first determined where the studs were by tapping around on the outside. Then drilled a 2" hole ( I think that was the size) through the outside wall.

2.Cut an opening in the inside wall about 6 inches to the side of the outside hole for the inside plug outlet and box.

3.Snaked a 12/2 wire from outside over to inside hole.

4.Connected outside receptical to wire and mounted it on wall.

5.Connected inside receptical to wire and mounted it on the wall.

6.Checked wiring job with outlet checker - everything showed ok.

7.Plugged in the heater and it worked fine! :)

We have been using a Vornado electric heater for the past several years. It circulates the heat very well with a large, quiet fan, and has a thermostat and adjustable heat output. We have been very pleased with its' performance during temps down to as low as the high 30's in our 30ft trailer. You can barely hear the fan running when it is on high position.
Barney