Fridge operation when not level

Do yourself a favor and install an ARP Control on your refrigerator, and you won't have to worry about it.

Initially when I buy a new trailer , I place a bubble level inside the freezer and use a mirror to view it. Once i find the level mark, i install a 2 way level (N-S-E-W) on the front driver side corner of my TT, located so I can view it in my trucks side-view mirror. That way , while pulling into a site, i can see if my TT tires are level by looking in my mirror. Once I unhitch, I then only have to adjust my jack to make it level front to rear. The below style level has 2 bubbles for side to side and front to rear leveling.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Wheel-Masters-RV-Bubble-Level-p/03-0198.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyvXPBRD-ARIsAIeQeoFGkGcbxmmKy0JE2eUtf534UQdQxreQg-DXmdMFg2z7Rq7uow8TFicaAop5EALw_wcB&gdffi=d722fab84a06472899ce2a16e4d2ed3f&gdfms=90806A8F281940D3B6572941D98CB64A

If your fridge is located on the driver side or passenger side of your TT, then front to rear leveling is important 3 degrees because the fridge tubes run right/left as you're looking at it .

If the fridge happens to be located on a rear wall, then right to left leveling is the important method to level it. Use of leveling blocks under the tires is more important.

Also make sure when leveling you're setting the level on the inside of the freezer. That's where all the action is. Once you know where the "important level" is, then you can set the other levels on your trailer based on that one. Seems like older fridges were more inclined to vapor lock when running off level. And yes, front to back was more finicky than side to side. When I worked at my dad's RV shop we would take out at least one unit a month, turn it over on it's head for 24 hrs. Then fire it up on gas to make sure it worked before re-installing it. It does seem like the newer units just get damaged and not locked up like the oldies.

Off level causes OVERHEATING due to lack of gravity low of coolant

Sodium chromate (anti-rust inhibitor in the coolant solution) will crystallize when overheating occurs.
The crystals plate out on the inside of cooling unit tubing......permanently.

Bouncing down the road will NOT cause them to go back into solution....done is done

Operating while in transit does not cause this issue of overheating cause the coolant flow is in constant motion from the rock/roll/bounce of the RV.

20 minutes of off level operation (stationary) where the coolant gravity flow is disrupted is enough to cause the crystals to form.
Damage is accumulative over time

It is my understanding that out of level causes a build up of residue in the cooling tubes if the refrigerator.

Driving down the road shakes the residue loose but when stopped and not level, the build up can be a problem.

The only way I can tell a three degrees tilt is with a protractor and a level.

Good luck

Not sure about the side to side unlevel but front to back for sure. I don't bother with those stick on levels, I use a Torpedo level on top of the fridge myself.

Leather, this is basic RV fridge operation. 3 and 6 as Lynn said.

The area between the lines of a level are not a set value but if it's just touching with the bubble between the lines, I would think your fine.
If the bubble is outside the lines, I would shut it down fast.

Seems to be cooling fine, its down to 46 degrees and dropping.

We are nose high, and the bubble is barely touching the middle level range. Not sure how many degrees we would be off.