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MartyW's avatar
MartyW
Explorer
Nov 14, 2014

GM 14-bolt FF Rear End with 149k miles

Hi to all,

Our TV is a GMT400 1997 GMC K2500 7.4L Burb with 149k miles. It is 8-lug, 3.73, GVWR 8,600, with GAWR RR of 6,000 lbs for the full floater rear axle. We believe the rear end also has 149k miles and has never been rebuilt (14-bolt 10.5" full floater with G80 limited slip).

When we got this TV last year we changed all fluids including diff fluids, so now the rear diff has standard GM fluid with the standard GM additive for limited slip.

We purchased a heavier camper last month and we pulled it back home at about 7k lbs, through the Tn mountains/hills for about a 6 hour pull.

The 7.4L & 4L80E handled the hills and load great and never once had to downshift or even have the torque converter unlock. But after that haul I detected a little hum in the rear-end for a day or so (when driving with power applied). It may have been my imagination but I don't think so, and the hum went away after a day or two and a few miles of not towing. This made me think of doing all I can to protect that rear diff for future towing long distances from home.

All opinions for action(s) greatly appreciated. My main questions are whether to just put synthetic fluid in the rear diff with possibly some protective additive(s), or if folks might think this diff should be rebuilt (or internally inspected) at 149k miles before doing a lot of heavy towing.

Thanks in advance to all,
Marty

37 Replies

  • Thanks BenK and ScottG.

    I've read that some are clutches and some not (GovLock ?). So glad you're familiar with that exact diff.

    Don't know why the additive was added to mine. Probably because it wasn't done at a dealership but by a shop who said they knew exactly what to add. I'll get it flushed and re-filled with full synthetic asap.

    Many thanks,
    Marty
  • It's either a locker or it has clutches. It's isn't both. And it will do no harm (or good) to add friction modifier to a locker dif.
    If it actually has clutches then a friction modifier is generally recommended. Failure to use a FM where it is required causes the clutches to chatter and engage roughly which causes wear and breakage.
  • I normally add molyb to all my lube...except for anything that has a clutch (diff &
    automatic)

    Too slippery and will ruin it.

    Just synthetic diff fluid straight up
  • Mine is the same, except 1996, 4.1's and over 165K miles of extremely
    hard driving/towing/offroading

    GM's G80 is

    NOT

    a limited slip, but a LOCKER with clutches

    It does NOT need, nor does GM recommend any LS modifier

    LS Modifier reduces the clutch pack from sticking...exactly what the G80 wants to
    do when the centrifugal switch turns on the locer

    Recommend you flush and refill with synthetic diff fluid WITHOUT any friction
    modifier for LS diff's

    I've used Mobil synthetic since new.

    A trick, as this era does NOT have a drain plug.

    Remove the diff cover and flush.

    Scrap off any old gasket on the diff housing and cover.

    Degrease it well

    Then glue (Permatex) the new gasket on the diff cover side.

    Lightly coat the diff housing flange with diff fluid. Ditto the gasket
    side that will mate

    Then reassemble and tighten the diff bolts 'lightly'

    DO NOT FILL

    Leave it this way for a couple hours...best over night

    Then tighten the bolts to sped and refill

    Next flush: just loosen all of the diff cover bolts, but leave them
    on

    Place a catch pan underneath the diff pumpkin

    Then whack the diff cover. Normally dead center, but on GMT400's the
    gas tank is very close and in the way

    The diff cover will just pop off and a gush of fluid

    Then take the bolts off.

    Wipe the diff cover and gasket

    Let it drain and then repeat the wipe of fresh fluid on the mating
    surfaces.

    No new gasket, as the old one will be in one piece.

    Tighten and then refill...done

    Flush mine every 20K miles or two years...which ever comes first
  • Thanks guys. I'll set up an appointment to have it checked.

    Any recommendations on particular synthetics, and/or additives greatly appreciated too.
  • I would service it and check for wear on the teeth and stuff in the bottom of the housing.
    And yes, you should be running synthetic.