help with leaking valve newbie

well everyone I thank you for all of the help, ended up going with the sharkbite valve end and everything worked out spectacular! no more leaks....did as someone suggested and filled the clean tank to the brim turned on all faucets shower toilet etc to fill the pipes and then turned them off....1 second later the water pump shut off....left it like that and no more leaks! thanks everyone! see ya on the road!

Pex cutter works great.

Clicky

clg82 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
YEAH..older rigs used valves.
Then 'efficiency', 'productivity', 'cost savings' etc. and caps/plugs became the norm.

Those low point drains just need to be tightened and IF still leaking you can always replace with a couple of valves from hardware store.

Home Depot carries 'Sharkbite' which are really good quality and just snap on (Lowes carries similar but called Gatorbites)

what do you mean by just snap on? they are both just tubing coming out of the bottom...do the sharkbite just push onto the bottom of the tubing with a valve to open and close or something?

Yep Sharkbites and Gatorbite just push on......really neat fittings/valves etc.
Need a special tool ($2) to remove.
Hardest part is making sure you cut PEX/Copper/CVPC etc. straight and no burrs.
And don't worry......they will easily rotate when installed BUT won't leak

Half inch i think.

gotcha thanks 301tbs! By looking at the tubing in the picture that I posted what size tube does that look like?

Yes, sharkbite fittings push on, they will not come off unless you release them with a tool. I used sharkbite with 1/4 turn valves in them. Got rid of screw on caps completely. Was worried about loosing the seal when i unscrewed them.

thanks for the input Jim! I will definetly get this and then take a look at other things!

One of the ways you can check for other leaks is to fix these first. Then, fill the water tank and turn on the pump. Open all the faucets and run enough water that you bleed all the air out of the system. This may take a while because you'll have a lot of air trapped in the hot water heater. After all the faucets are running smoothly, shut them off and leave the pump on. If the pump occasionally turns on, it likely indicates that you have a leak somewhere in the system that you need to track down. If it stays off, you're most likely good!

bradnailer wrote:
From your picture, my concern would be that you have water on the bottom of the trailer above the two drain valves. That would indicate that you have a seepage in a connection somewhere upstream. You should trace the lines inside the trailer and find the leak. Then as was mentioned, replace the leaky connection with sharkbite type. You should have enough play in the lines to cut the old fitting out and install a new one. If you use sharkbites, just make sure you cut the tubing square, using cutters, not a hack saw.

i understand what you're saying but the valves at the end of those tubes were spraying upwards onto the trailer itself so i could see why you would think that it would be seeping from up above but i will definetly check upstream for anyother leaks...good idea

Old-Biscuit wrote:
YEAH..older rigs used valves.
Then 'efficiency', 'productivity', 'cost savings' etc. and caps/plugs became the norm.

Those low point drains just need to be tightened and IF still leaking you can always replace with a couple of valves from hardware store.

Home Depot carries 'Sharkbite' which are really good quality and just snap on (Lowes carries similar but called Gatorbites)

what do you mean by just snap on? they are both just tubing coming out of the bottom...do the sharkbite just push onto the bottom of the tubing with a valve to open and close or something?