:? Hi, guys. You always come through, so I hope I have enough info to make it easy for you. I'm so confused.Bailing from our 2006 Four Winds Hurricane 32R Class A. We bought a 5th wheel, and are now trying to figure out how to afford the LARGE truck we need to tow it.......... not to mention the hitchwork. Ugh.Yes, we do everything in backwards order. Camper, then truck.We drive a Titan LE CC 2WD SWB truck that we wanted to keep. I know, right? Not in this life. We have some equity in our truck, but know ABSOLUTELY nothing about hitch and tow requirements. We bought:2012 Keystone Avalanche 345TG11,335 Dry Shipping Weight 2,665 Carrying Capacity2,050 Hitch2 Axles12'5" Height37'11" Length66 Fresh50 Waste85 Gray60 LPG12 Hot Water Heater35,000 btu HeatingIs there an easy answer... like:a 3/4 ton diesel truckor a one-ton diesel pickup or a one-ton diesel pickup dually?We are very limited in income for this vehicle; we won't skimp, but we DO want to know the MINIMUM we should purchase to assure that we can go in the mountains or wherever, without struggling.Of course, we know NOTHING about hitches for fifth wheels. Have read all that about air bags, too. Read about the Trailer Saver. Sounds awesome but expensive. I'll take any advice/opinions you can dish out. Oh, ha. For those of you who LOVE The Long, Long Trailer, 1953 film starring Lucy and Desi... you can see the real ME in it. Not quite loading up ROCKS, but I can really fill up a camper... every nook and cranny. I am trying hard to reform and lighten up, but please consider that we MAY be heavyweight. We will also be Gate Guarding, so we are taking more supplies than normal.Tow Vehicle and Hitch Tips, PLEASE!!!!!Thanks.......... always,Ang :h

Take your pick of those trucks. Someone will have good things to say about any of them. Get prepared for a long discussion.

This will be a long discussion..... I'm normally a proponent of gas engined trucks- they are much more capable than years past, but with your trailer weight approaching 14K you are solidly in diesel territory if you want comfortable performance in the hills and you sound like you are going to put down some miles. Your empty pin weight is relatively light, but if you are a pack rat you could easily add a lot of weight to the pin, so I think you are 350/3500 territory. (I refuse to use "1-ton" because in talking about today's trucks it's a completely meaningless term) Some may say you need duals but a properly equipped SRW should give you all the capacity you need. Pick the brand that fits your rear end the best and comes in the color you like, any of the big 3 will do the job very well.

You have to add your passenger weight to the weight of the trailer and all of the stuff you take.With the weight and height of your trailer I would recommend a dually. But take into account that I am used to seeing 40 to 50 mph cross winds on the east side of the Sierra's.There is a shortage of camping areas for a trailer that size in the Sierra areas. The Yellowstone area has a bigger selection I think.If you are staying in KOA's you shouldn't have a problem. You just have to make your excursions from that site, to the area you might visit.My nephew has a 3 axle toy hauler of about that size. And he regularly tows it onto Pismo beach with his 99 Ford diesel 4x4 f350 single axle truck. He is happy with it except for the fuel cost and is considering storing the trailer over there. Pismo is about the only place he camps. He does use it for some racing events. That old 7.3 is very reliable. He did lose the automatic one time but had it rebuilt and it is strong now. That 7.3 is short on power compared to the new ones. It struggles up Grocer Grade at 35 mph. It's a long 7%+ grade.I would expect his 3 axles cause him to have less sway effect from cross winds than a 2 axle.Have fun shopping and make up your own mind. Don't let the salesman sell you on a truck. Get the one you want and is all you need.

Have you thought of selling everything and getting more solvent?

First thing is you can figure your pin weight fully loaded rather easily.From the figures you provided, your fifth wheel is running an 18% weight ratio on the pin itself (2,050 divided by 11,335). Adding 11,335 to carrying capacity of 2,665 comes out to 14,000. 14,000 X 18% = max pin weight of 2,520 pounds. To that figure of 2,520 pounds add 500 pounds. This is a guess, covering the weight of any fifth wheel hitch you install in the pickup plus two 150 pound passengers. Adding it all up, you need a vehicle with a payload capacity of 3,020 pounds or more. This probably means something in the 350/3500 series of trucks. It does NOT necessarily mean a dually. There are single rear wheel versions made in the 350/3500 series of vehicles that can handle the above mentioned 3,020 pounds. But now you have something you didn't have before. A weight figure to look for.So keep that 3,020 pounds in the forefront of your thoughts and go find a truck which can handle that. Also, very important! Don't listen to anyone, (even me! :B) who says a truck can PULL that fifth wheel. Pulling is NOT the important factor. The critical factor is can the truck CARRY that 3,020 pounds of weight.

I have a TOW VEHICLE headache. | Good Sam Community

Grit_dog
Navigator
Nov 11, 2014
jerem0621 wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
RedJeep wrote:
imadtchmn wrote:
I have a 98 chevy dually pulling 14,320 scaled pounds fully loaded. I have no problem staying up with trucks going uphill and love the way it handles. Do I rush. No. One thing no one has mentioned is rear end gearing. It's important. You want something in the 4:10 range.

I've had my 98 chevy 6.5 for 3 years now and still love it. I did some work to it since it was used and abused, but once done, I have no fear in taking it anywhere. Here are some of the stats for you.

Purchased $3500.00
pdm and mods $300.00
Right upper control arm assy. $65.00
Alignment $95.00
Idle shutoff switch $60.00

That's it. Sure beats the heck out of pricing a new truck and yes, all the labor is my own. Parts from ebay and the like. This truck was a construction vehicle in its prior life.

Original cost per the paperwork I found in the glovebox $53030.00. What a deal I got. :)

I agree. Good post and good advice. There is nothing wrong with a well cared for and moderately upgraded older truck.

Sure, as long as it's not a 6.5GM or 6.0 Ford. Yes you can get them to run right and be reliable but you better be a good mechanic and or have deep pockets, or get lucky.
The guy above is lucky if that's all that's done to the 6.5 or its real low miles.
Also, no fooling, they are not high power monster engines.
To the OP unless you're mechanically inclined then stay away from the older and less reliable diesels.

Yes please do stay away. Sure makes these trucks cheaper for those of us who don't mind a little grease under our fingers and a little knowledge in our brains about how our vehicles work. :D

I agree with you on that. Have had a couple 6.5s now. Last one I picked up for a grand and sold it for almost $4k after a spit shine, new pmd, some fuel lines and a bunch of cheap but confusing vacuum work and a homemade waste gate.
But the OP didn't sound like a gear head or someone who wanted a project, hence the warning and you have to admit that you better be better than avg with diagnostics and a wrench if you're going to keep a 6.5 diesel healthy.
steve-n-vicki
Explorer
Nov 11, 2014
have you considered a MDT or HDT?
blt2ski
Moderator
Nov 11, 2014
psford wrote:
imadtchmn wrote:
I have a 98 chevy dually pulling 14,320 scaled pounds fully loaded. I have no problem staying up with trucks going uphill and love the way it handles. Do I rush. No. One thing no one has mentioned is rear end gearing. It's important. You want something in the 4:10 range.

I've had my 98 chevy 6.5 for 3 years now and still love it. I did some work to it since it was used and abused, but once done, I have no fear in taking it anywhere. Here are some of the stats for you.

Purchased $3500.00
pdm and mods $300.00
Right upper control arm assy. $65.00
Alignment $95.00
Idle shutoff switch $60.00

That's it. Sure beats the heck out of pricing a new truck and yes, all the labor is my own. Parts from ebay and the like. This truck was a construction vehicle in its prior life.

Original cost per the paperwork I found in the glovebox $53030.00. What a deal I got. :)

Gotta ask ,53K for a 98 chevy dually, or was that the paperwork for repairs :) My 99 Ford 7.3 was just over 32K new. It would be hard to believe Chevy was getting 20K more

Without going back a page or two, could the fellow with the 6.5 be using canadian funds vs US. Things seem to cost a bit more to the north than here in the south...........

I paid 28 plus tax/license for my 96 SW CC manual tranny 6.5........

Marty
psford
Explorer
Nov 10, 2014
imadtchmn wrote:
I have a 98 chevy dually pulling 14,320 scaled pounds fully loaded. I have no problem staying up with trucks going uphill and love the way it handles. Do I rush. No. One thing no one has mentioned is rear end gearing. It's important. You want something in the 4:10 range.

I've had my 98 chevy 6.5 for 3 years now and still love it. I did some work to it since it was used and abused, but once done, I have no fear in taking it anywhere. Here are some of the stats for you.

Purchased $3500.00
pdm and mods $300.00
Right upper control arm assy. $65.00
Alignment $95.00
Idle shutoff switch $60.00

That's it. Sure beats the heck out of pricing a new truck and yes, all the labor is my own. Parts from ebay and the like. This truck was a construction vehicle in its prior life.

Original cost per the paperwork I found in the glovebox $53030.00. What a deal I got. :)

Gotta ask ,53K for a 98 chevy dually, or was that the paperwork for repairs :) My 99 Ford 7.3 was just over 32K new. It would be hard to believe Chevy was getting 20K more
jerem0621
Explorer II
Nov 10, 2014
Grit dog wrote:
RedJeep wrote:
imadtchmn wrote:
I have a 98 chevy dually pulling 14,320 scaled pounds fully loaded. I have no problem staying up with trucks going uphill and love the way it handles. Do I rush. No. One thing no one has mentioned is rear end gearing. It's important. You want something in the 4:10 range.

I've had my 98 chevy 6.5 for 3 years now and still love it. I did some work to it since it was used and abused, but once done, I have no fear in taking it anywhere. Here are some of the stats for you.

Purchased $3500.00
pdm and mods $300.00
Right upper control arm assy. $65.00
Alignment $95.00
Idle shutoff switch $60.00

That's it. Sure beats the heck out of pricing a new truck and yes, all the labor is my own. Parts from ebay and the like. This truck was a construction vehicle in its prior life.

Original cost per the paperwork I found in the glovebox $53030.00. What a deal I got. :)

I agree. Good post and good advice. There is nothing wrong with a well cared for and moderately upgraded older truck.

Sure, as long as it's not a 6.5GM or 6.0 Ford. Yes you can get them to run right and be reliable but you better be a good mechanic and or have deep pockets, or get lucky.
The guy above is lucky if that's all that's done to the 6.5 or its real low miles.
Also, no fooling, they are not high power monster engines.
To the OP unless you're mechanically inclined then stay away from the older and less reliable diesels.

Yes please do stay away. Sure makes these trucks cheaper for those of us who don't mind a little grease under our fingers and a little knowledge in our brains about how our vehicles work. :D
Grit_dog
Navigator
Nov 10, 2014
RedJeep wrote:
imadtchmn wrote:
I have a 98 chevy dually pulling 14,320 scaled pounds fully loaded. I have no problem staying up with trucks going uphill and love the way it handles. Do I rush. No. One thing no one has mentioned is rear end gearing. It's important. You want something in the 4:10 range.

I've had my 98 chevy 6.5 for 3 years now and still love it. I did some work to it since it was used and abused, but once done, I have no fear in taking it anywhere. Here are some of the stats for you.

Purchased $3500.00
pdm and mods $300.00
Right upper control arm assy. $65.00
Alignment $95.00
Idle shutoff switch $60.00

That's it. Sure beats the heck out of pricing a new truck and yes, all the labor is my own. Parts from ebay and the like. This truck was a construction vehicle in its prior life.

Original cost per the paperwork I found in the glovebox $53030.00. What a deal I got. :)

I agree. Good post and good advice. There is nothing wrong with a well cared for and moderately upgraded older truck.

Sure, as long as it's not a 6.5GM or 6.0 Ford. Yes you can get them to run right and be reliable but you better be a good mechanic and or have deep pockets, or get lucky.
The guy above is lucky if that's all that's done to the 6.5 or its real low miles.
Also, no fooling, they are not high power monster engines.
To the OP unless you're mechanically inclined then stay away from the older and less reliable diesels.
greg0rn
Explorer
Nov 10, 2014
[COLOR=]...They just pay someone to move it, as they don't move often or too far. So, for the moment, we are going to do just that.

Seems they will move it for under $100... set up included...

So, it looks like they have their problem solved. Angie will be looking for a towing company now.

By the way, used trucks are not cheap. I just sold my 8 years old, 1 ton Cummins Dodge 4X2, basic equipped for $25,000. Surely, it had only 70,000 miles, one owner, all maintenance records, J-brakes, looked like new, but still...
jerem0621
Explorer II
Nov 10, 2014
C Schomer wrote:
Have you looked at any trucks yet? A gasser would do it but Someone recently posted about pulling a big (I think about 14k) 5er with a hemi and he gassed up every 200 miles. That was also my experience when I had a gasser. I can go 400 with the diesel. Craig

Your bladder control is significantly better than mine. My gasser needed gassed up every 200 ish miles too. But about that time I am hunting a bathroom any way. At 60 MPH thats about every 3 hours. My fill ups worked out just fine for me and the family. :)

Going 400 while pulling would be about 6 hours without stopping. Can't do that.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
C_Schomer
Explorer
Nov 10, 2014
Have you looked at any trucks yet? A gasser would do it but Someone recently posted about pulling a big (I think about 14k) 5er with a hemi and he gassed up every 200 miles. That was also my experience when I had a gasser. I can go 400 with the diesel. Craig
oughtsix
Explorer
Nov 10, 2014
Jarlaxle wrote:
I would go for a dually. If you;'re willing to go a few years older, a 2006-2007 Ram 3500 with the Cummins or a Chevy/GMC 3500 with the Duramax would work well.

This is what I would do. OK, it is exactly what I did do and I love my 2006 Duramax! I love not having to worry about the extra emissions stuff and DEF fluid! One of these trucks would make a sound reliable tow vehicle for a decent price. This might allow you to dedicate the vehicle to towing in which case I would seriously consider a DRW (Dually)!

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