New Truck or New Engine
So, anybody rebuilding or replacing engines in their TC hauling trucks as opposed to buying a new or low mileage used truck?
Forum Discussion
- I would replace the motor as I have done in my Chevy. Waaaaaaaayyyyyyy less money.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/crate-engines/make/chevrolet/engine-size/7-4l-454 klyross wrote:
Figured to get some good advice here, but I was wrong -
it is MUCH better than that! I have reread the comments
a number of times and am still processing the info.
One thing I will still do, is get a professional 'complete physical'
of the truck from a respected mechanic. Also, all options are still
on the table.
Thanks again.
Exactly right IMO. Ya gotta remember that there are 320,000 miles on every nut and bolt in the truck. How much more will you have to spend?
If you just have to run it for a short time before buying something else, maybe check out the local auto wreckers for an engine/tranny with a few less miles on it. Lots of ways to go here--just another option.- Bad oil filters are definitely death to many newer diesel designs. I started specifying Motorcraft when I have someone else change my oil after skipping a time or two changing oil, and seeing that I had been running a “not so good” brand the next time I changed it myself. It seems some mechanics definitely don’t care.
- I will chime in and make this quick. My 2nd Gen Dodge Dually diesel melted down #6 piston at 53k miles because of using after market oil filters.(clogged the oil nozzle at the end of the oil galley) If you ever rebuild...never use anything but the Fleetguard filters. I got lucky. I was able to do a full on rebuild top to bottom for under 4000, I do all my work. Depending on your situation, look at the price of new trucks. A rebuild is way more an option these days as long as you want to go through the process. Doing an engine is a major project but so is a clutch If you have a manual. Don't chump out. If you have it change it out...regardless. Breaking it apart again is not what you want to do a year later.
- Figured to get some good advice here, but I was wrong -
it is MUCH better than that! I have reread the comments
a number of times and am still processing the info.
One thing I will still do, is get a professional 'complete physical'
of the truck from a respected mechanic. Also, all options are still
on the table.
Thanks again. klyross wrote:
ANY vehicle can get you stuck at any time. Even a brand new truck.
time2roll - but, I do not want to get stuck in the boonies at 9:00pm - and 320,000 miles is a lot, no?
If it has been reliable, I would trust it another 100,000. Worst case you just leave it and use the money you saved to replace it while on the road.
Easy for me to say. I only have 200,000 on mine but I would still take mine anywhere.- When new/rebuilt engine is straightforward decision money wise, there is much more to truck than engine.
New truck will give you nicer interior, GPS with live traffic, radars for blind spots, better fuel economy, bluetooth integration and hundreds other things you might choose. klyross wrote:
So, anybody rebuilding or replacing engines in their TC hauling trucks as opposed to buying a new or low mileage used truck?
Definitely rebuild...Short blocks and even long blocks are inexpensive compared...As far as the older engines go,check out the net which is full of 300K 460 and 454 engines that were taken care of and not mistreated....
My vote goes to rebuilt engines and transmissions over a newer used truck that could have its own issues...kohldad wrote:
I have done a lot of motor swaps without discharging the AC.... In fact I have never discharged an AC for that reason... Just tie it up out of the way.
Haven't in years but my father and I use to rebuild the old 69 Dodge 318 a number of times, mostly just the heads and exhaust valves.
Is it burning oil? Fuel mileage decreased recently? If not, odds are it is still going strong and doesn't need rebuilding. If so and it was my truck, I would probably tear the engine down for a top to bottom rebuild either myself or a trusted mechanic that routinely rebuilds engines. You may also want to discuss any upgrades for the engine that can increase performance while not increasing the wear and tear on the engine. While you have the engine out causing the AC to be discharged, I would also replace the heater core along with updating the heating unit doors with metal ones to ensure that isn't the next thing to go wrong.- Great trip down memory lane....back to your regularly scheduled program. Not you jimh, your post was spot on. Here’s my take
So OP, have over 300k on a truck that is presumably also as well maintained as it is rust free. Runs well except a bit tired.
If that’s the case, nice job on getting your money’s worth out of the truck.
But think about it this way. The thing that leaves you on the side of the road at midnight in the middl of no where as you put it, is not catastrophic engine failure. It’s about 95% likely it’s something else. Either something that also should be wore out by now, something that has had some symptoms but was “still fine”, or something newer or old that randomly stops working. Could be a $25 20 minute fix or a $2500 fix.
Regardless of new engine, all these other things could happen.
So if your reasoning is you’re keeping the truck and not worried about other stuff then a new long block is maybe a sound decision. But mostly only if you’re doing the work yourself.
If you have the work done, it’ll cost more than the truck is worth plus you’ll get nickel and dimed for a bunch of other stuff.
Bottom line, drive the truck until you’re done with the whole truck and don’t fix what ain’t broke. It’s throwing good money after bad.
If you’re considering the cost of outfitting a new truck as well, find another low mile 3rd or early 4th gen gasser that your camper stuff fits on.
