TC Hitch Extension/Motorcycle Carry
I currently use my front hitch to carry my generator and extra fuel. I would like to use my rear hitch to carry a relatively lightweight motorcycle. (280 lbs.) I have to clear my rear bumper and Fo...
Forum Discussion
Here we go (apologies to DJ is too off topic)
A couple of notes.....
The side plates that bolt into the frame, have bolts alternating in direction (some go inside to outside, some go outside to inside.) The thick square plates that bolt through the frame, are also welded to the outside of the Reese Tow Beast Hitch. So it is essentially now all integrated to the Reese. Yep, I am sure the warrenty for the Tow Beast is violated in 14 different ways, but the strength of it is now pretty "beastly". It had already been altered to put in the air-ride suspension from kelderman. I think there are 6 giant grade 8 bolts on each side that bolt through the frame, the tow beast, or both.
The open frame section that you see the wires in, will be recovered with a steel diamond plate sheet.
The "deck" part will be covered with expanded metal or other decking; it was sized to fit the plastic tote that holds our inflatible kayak, but it also fits 2+ plastic totes lengthwise. It MAY be able to mount a spare tire on an angle above those side-channels. But who needs a spare tire when you already have a dually? ;)
The rear-most cross member is actually two steel channels (just like on the sides) that are welded together to box in a 4"x4" tube.
The 7-way RV plug needs to be located within that 4x4 rear cross member to be out of the way for loading. I also plan on a super large gauge (semi lift gate or Anderson waterproof type) connecter for + and - charge wires.
It is removable, with some work. Those air-fill connectors are attached through the upper side beams. The lights are welded/attached, but the wires are on a quick disconnect. I still need to find another spot to mount two additional light assemblies on the frame, so I can quick disconnect the one set on the extension and connect to the other set if I ever removed the extension.
I will also probably grind off the small part of the upper side beams that stick up above the frame rail height. I want that totally flat. Someday I might put hydraulic levelers (outriggers) on that would fit perfectly above the frame rails right there. That's a long ways off (I need to LOSE WEIGHT or move weight before I add anything more back there.)
Guess that's about it. But now that you see better how low and far back it all is (compared to before) that departure angle has been compromised. How much? Too much? not sure, but I want to minimize it. Originally the departure angle on my rig was pretty out of hand good. The air ride suspension impacted it some, and the hitch now even more.......
A couple of notes.....
The side plates that bolt into the frame, have bolts alternating in direction (some go inside to outside, some go outside to inside.) The thick square plates that bolt through the frame, are also welded to the outside of the Reese Tow Beast Hitch. So it is essentially now all integrated to the Reese. Yep, I am sure the warrenty for the Tow Beast is violated in 14 different ways, but the strength of it is now pretty "beastly". It had already been altered to put in the air-ride suspension from kelderman. I think there are 6 giant grade 8 bolts on each side that bolt through the frame, the tow beast, or both.
The open frame section that you see the wires in, will be recovered with a steel diamond plate sheet.
The "deck" part will be covered with expanded metal or other decking; it was sized to fit the plastic tote that holds our inflatible kayak, but it also fits 2+ plastic totes lengthwise. It MAY be able to mount a spare tire on an angle above those side-channels. But who needs a spare tire when you already have a dually? ;)
The rear-most cross member is actually two steel channels (just like on the sides) that are welded together to box in a 4"x4" tube.
The 7-way RV plug needs to be located within that 4x4 rear cross member to be out of the way for loading. I also plan on a super large gauge (semi lift gate or Anderson waterproof type) connecter for + and - charge wires.
It is removable, with some work. Those air-fill connectors are attached through the upper side beams. The lights are welded/attached, but the wires are on a quick disconnect. I still need to find another spot to mount two additional light assemblies on the frame, so I can quick disconnect the one set on the extension and connect to the other set if I ever removed the extension.
I will also probably grind off the small part of the upper side beams that stick up above the frame rail height. I want that totally flat. Someday I might put hydraulic levelers (outriggers) on that would fit perfectly above the frame rails right there. That's a long ways off (I need to LOSE WEIGHT or move weight before I add anything more back there.)
Guess that's about it. But now that you see better how low and far back it all is (compared to before) that departure angle has been compromised. How much? Too much? not sure, but I want to minimize it. Originally the departure angle on my rig was pretty out of hand good. The air ride suspension impacted it some, and the hitch now even more.......
