My rig is a 95 vintage and as we will be heading out shortly to tour the rockies, I decided that having an extra fan for engine cooling might be a good idea.This is the fan that I ordered - I hope that 3000 cfm is sufficient as going any higher is a significant jump in price.Has anyone else added a supplementary engine cooling fan and was it a benefit? Which one did you use?I have an F53 chassis with the 460 (Newmar Kountry Star)

I put one in my Allegro Bay , mainly so I could keep it on when I shut the engine down . All that heat came into the house until then .

from what I have heard from racing circles, they don't move enough air to get the benefit you need to keep the motor from over heating

I'm not familiar at all with your RV. Can you increase air flow by increasing the ventilation to the engine? I'm thinking car style hood louvers. I found a 96' picture of what might be your RV. Looks to have a swing up front door? Any non structure areas that you can cut? What about the back area the engine bay that vents elsewhere? The metal hood louvers can be painted to match. Are looking to add the electric fan as a pusher? There has been some testing on light duty vehicles. The electric fan does draw less overall horsepower and moves less air than mechanical on average. Make sure mechanical fan shroud is installed correctly.

Hi,When you encounter a overheating RV, the first thing to think about is a new thermostat. If the old one is only opening about 40%, then it can cause overheating, and for about $15 can be replaced.Second thing is spray on some simple green, then hose off with a garden hose. If the water it really dirty, it can be the source of your troubles, dirt build up can lessen the radiator's ability to get rid of heat by 5% to 15%. So a clean radiator can cool off about 5% cooler than a slightly dirty one, 15% better than if it was really clogged with dirt deep into the coils.The main fan will move air about 1,500 - 2,000 CFM at the pressure drop through the radiator and condencer while at 2,000 RPM while the clutch is not engauged. WHen the air going out of the radiator across the water pump is over 150F, then the fan clutch should go into direct speed mode, or the same as the input RPM, a slight overdrive above the engine RPM. At this point, 2,000 engine RPM whould bring through around 6,000 CFM.Also recall that the radiator has about 4 square feet, and at 60 MPH, the motorhome is moving forward at about 100 feet per second, or 5,300 feet per minute. So this is 5,300 X 4 square feet per minute, or about 21,200 CFM if there was not anything in the way to restrict the airflow, yet the radiator, condenser, and other things in the way help prevent that much air from going through the radiator.Some say that a 3,000 CFM fan will restrict the air more than enhance it. Well if you are getting 21,200 CFM at natural flow, it might be true. Yet once parked, it would be REALLY handy to turn on that fan, and blow some air through the radiator, across the engine, and cool both quickly. I have found that on a 90F day, shutting off the engine, the floor will warm up a long way, so on the second day of camping, the floor is much cooler in my case. That fan will assist in cooling the RV a lot. While parking, or running less than 10 MPH, then the fan will enhance airflow. Yet at 60 MPH, the air going into the radiator will be more than adaquate to cool the radiator IF it is clean.Also a thermostat that only opens 40% will cause overheating in a RV while climbing. No increase in airflow will reduce the engine temperature if the thermostat is not replaced. I had a GMC motorhome with a 2 core undersized radiator. I ende up installing a very oversized transmission cooler, so that it cools all the transmission fluid, before going into the radiator, then to the factory cooler, then back to the transmission. Before modifications, I would run 235F trans temp all the time - even on flat ground on a 90F day, and afterwords, the radiator was slightly cooler, while the transmission was between 190 and 200 unless I was climbing a mountain, where it might reach 210 for a short time. I know another RV.net member who changed to replace his radiator tank transmission cooler with three extra large heavy duty transmission to air coolers, only to find out that the factory thermostat was not opening all the way, and had to be replaced. This after removing the radiator, and cleaning it.Fred.

Your fan should work fine, protect it with a 15 amp fuse, remember the 10 amp draw at 13 volts is only 130 watts, or about 15% of one horsepower, while the engine fan is well over 1 HP, perhaps 2?Fred.

Anyone added an electric radiator fan? | Good Sam Community

93Cobra2771
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
What he means is that even if your fan has engaged at speed, the wind speed coming in far overpowers what any fan can pull through - highly unusual for a clutch fan to engage at that kind of speed, unless it is perhaps a rear mounted radiator setup or perhaps the rad has limited airflow through it?
BrianinMichigan
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
paddywanpeep wrote:
Your radiator fan is only good until about 35 - 40mph-ish then its just the flow of air being pushed through the radiator that cools it, that is why they made clutch fans so they just freewheel after a certain speed otherwise they do more harm than good.
:h

When my clutch fan kicks in at 65 miles per hour you know it and the engine temps starts backing down
paddywanpeep
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
Your radiator fan is only good until about 35 - 40mph-ish then its just the flow of air being pushed through the radiator that cools it, that is why they made clutch fans so they just freewheel after a certain speed otherwise they do more harm than good.
C_Schomer
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
I added 2 - 12" fans to mine to get near instant cooling out of the AC. My temp was going up and pressure washing the outside of the radiator fixed that really good. I couldn't believe how much dirt was in there that I couldn't see... mud stream down the drive. Craig
93Cobra2771
Explorer
Jul 02, 2013
64thunderbolt wrote:
If you are doing 10 mph & the eng screaming the stock fan is moving more air than any elec on the market. Is the fan clutch in good cond? Rad? Tstat? Also if you will be using both fans there may be a terbulance issue.

Completely drain & I mean COMPLETELY drain the cooling system and instal Evans coolant.

Bingo - I'm guessing from thunderbolt he is a hot rodder much like I am. Most e-fans are good for light duty work, but your mechanical will move WAY more air than almost all of them out there, assuming the fan clutch/shroud are in good mechanical shape.

My 275hp at the rear wheels 302 requires more cfm than the fan you listed to keep cool when in low speed high heat situations. Somewhere around 3800cfm will do it (for example, Lincoln MKVIII OEM fans are a popular upgrade for 79-93 Mustangs). Is suspect your HP rating is very similar to what I have.

The other problem with non stock efans is the shroud rarely covers enough of the radiator surface. So that max volume of air is only running through half or two thirds of the rad.

And finally, what size alternator do you have in amps? Older model Fords of that era tended to be a bit conservative on alternator sizing. You will need a large alternator to run that fan and have amps left over for charging and such. For example, a lousy 65a alternator came on my 93 Mustang, definitely not enough to run my first efan. I now run a 140a alternator with a pulse width modulation fan controller on a Lincoln MkVIII fan to control the fan and reduce the approximate 40-50amp startup spike.
captain_don_jua
Explorer
Jul 02, 2013
on my way back from fla., in april, the outside temp. was 75-80. I was running 65mph, the eng temp guage would go from 190 degrees to approx 212 degrees, and then the fan would kick on ( I guess) and the engine temp guage would go back down to "normal"this went on for approx 6 hrs.the next day the outside temp was about 60 degrees, and the temp guage stayed at "normal 190 degrees"the balance of our trip home.

does anyone have any input?it is a new unit 4500 miles w/ 40 ft w/ 425 cummins.

thks.,
jim
ryhed
Explorer
Jun 10, 2013
Could try some water wetter in it.
64thunderbolt
Explorer II
Jun 10, 2013
If you are doing 10 mph & the eng screaming the stock fan is moving more air than any elec on the market. Is the fan clutch in good cond? Rad? Tstat? Also if you will be using both fans there may be a terbulance issue.

Completely drain & I mean COMPLETELY drain the cooling system and instal Evans coolant.
Tachdriver
Explorer
May 27, 2013
Dakzuki wrote:
A better bet is a new radiator as they slowly lose the ability to move water with age. Yours is now nearly 20 years old if original. If you can get one with a bigger core, it will give you more margin. I have been unimpressed with aftermarket electric fans over the years. Many of them seem to run too fast and don't move much air.

Changed out my radiator for a larger one, made a huge difference for the money.
TyroneandGladys
Explorer
May 26, 2013
We run the generator and run the house AC not the engine AC. It takes a huge heat load off of the engine

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