power inverter install questions

[pbmazda32]

i'm wondering if its possible to buy a large inverter (1500 to 2000w) and tie it into the camper so i can use any outlet i want to. i dont want to wire it so my inverter is powering the charger that charges the batteries. that would just create a loop of wasted power (heat from the inverter)

also, if i have a 2000w inverter running a tv will it use any more power than a 400w inverter running a tv? just wondering if i'll be wasting a bunch of juice.

any help is appreciated or better ideas.

[mikestock]

is this the right product?

https://www.amazon.com/RV750ULHW-Inverter-Charger-Hardwire-Output/dp/B000FTH2R0/ref=pd_sbs_107_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VRVVZ2D0ES20A5Y5MNER

I'm not positive, but I don't think you want this. If you plan to replace your existing converter/charger, it can be wired to give you the 120 vac you're looking for, but I don't believe this will provide the 12 vdc output you have now. You will have to keep your existing 12 vdc in tact.

I did what you are planning with a 600 watt PSW Xantrex. I just plugged my rv input into the inverter and opened the breaker for the charger. I had 4-6 volt golf cart batteries, so it would last several hours if I was careful about how many lights, tv's, Directv receivers, etc. I used at a time.

Sorry my post didn't make much sense. i forgot to quote the post (on top) i was referring to.

[pbmazda32]

forgot to say, next project is a 200w solar setup.

[pbmazda32]

its in and done. everythings working as it should. found and marked the breaker for the AC. Theyre was a small breaker all the way to the right, flipped it and the charger shut off. so i can flip that off, turn the fridge to gas and im good to go. like i said earlier, my hot water tank is gas only so no need to worry about that. coffee pot ran fine, as did the battery charger for my tools. transfer switch in the inverter worked perfectly. had the inverter running with the tv and roku on, fired up the genny and it flipped over without a blip in anything. thanks for everyones help, its really appreciated.

[mikakuja]

SoundGuy, Good point on the fridge climate control circut, forgot about that one... We simply pulled the light switch out (shown in your pic) and unplugged the climate control unit then put the switch back in place (ours had 2 separate plugs behind the switch, one for the climate one for the light). As I have no intention in using the climate control I did not add a switch for it.

[SoundGuy]

mikakuja wrote:
The charger is the only item that will need to be re-wired. The A/C already has it's own breaker and does not need to be isolated. The fridge is the only other high draw item, and managing it by leaving it on gas works for us...
There really isn't anything else that's necessary to isolate.

But it is still necessary to make sure any water heater equipped with a 120 vac heating element has that element turned off. Also, any fridge with a climate control circuit, 'though it is 12 vdc powered, should be turned off as well in order to help eliminate unnecessary drain on precious battery reserve. Unfortunately manufacturers have eliminated this switch on some models, in which case it's advisable to add your own, just as I've done.

[mikakuja]

The charger is the only item that will need to be re-wired.
The A/C already has it's own breaker and does not need to be isolated.
The fridge is the only other high draw item, and managing it by leaving it on gas works for us...
There really isn't anything else that's necessary to isolate.

[SoundGuy]

pbmazda32 wrote:
thanks for the input. this morning im going to try to isolate all the big stuff and hook it up like mikakaju suggested. i really only need the outlets to work. i put my killowatt meter on my coffee pot and it maxes out at 602w. im going to check out the crock pot next.

the stuff im going to try to isolate and not power is the A/C and charger. the fridge ill just turn to gas. my hpt water tank only runs on gas. what else am i missing?

If you're going to the trouble of turning off your converter and forcing your fridge to gas mode anytime you're running on the inveter there's no need to "isolate" anything. Just don't turn on the A/C, or the microwave, or anything else that would place an excessive draw on the system. Certainly wiring in a transfer switch so you don't have to do this each time is an advantage but it's likewise certainly true that often the K.I.S.S. method works just as well. I myself first fed my trailer "whole house" but when I once forgot to turn off the converter I decided I had a choice to either install a transfer switch to avoid this OR wire in a few dedicated receptacles that are fed directly by the inverter. I chose the latter and it works just fine for my purpose, with no need to do anything but turn the inverter on as needed with the remote switch located inside the camper. Simple. :B

JMO, but you're not being realistic in what you're wanting to power with the inverter & battery :R ... a coffee maker that only takes a few minutes to complete it's task is one thing but powering a crock pot that needs to run continuously for hours makes no sense at all, regardless of it's power rating. Remember, it's not just the power any device is drawing but for how long ... that's why my wife's hair dryer is no problem as she's only running it for just a couple of minutes. The only long duration devices I run are fans but the reason that works is because they draw so little, ~ 30 watts.

[pbmazda32]

thanks for the input. this morning im going to try to isolate all the big stuff and hook it up like mikakaju suggested. i really only need the outlets to work. i put my killowatt meter on my coffee pot and it maxes out at 602w. im going to check out the crock pot next.

the stuff im going to try to isolate and not power is the A/C and charger. the fridge ill just turn to gas. my hpt water tank only runs on gas. what else am i missing?

[westend]

You might think of connecting that inverter to just the receptacle circuit in your RV. It is only rated for 10 A 120V AC output so it won't come close to running all the high power devices you have.

[pbmazda32]

got the inverter mounted today and the 12v side of the house taken care of. ill do the 110 side in the morning and see how it works. so far, so good.

[Blackdiamond]

Sounds like I am too late to the party but I bought the Xantrex Freedom 806-1840 HF 1800 Inverter/Charger, because it was easy. It replaces your charger adn has a built in transfer switch. Mainly use it to run tv/dvd player and cpap machine at night.

[pbmazda32]

thanks for everyones info. ive read all your advice. also downloaded some product manuals of different inverters to read the install instructions. this will be an easy project, i just needed to understand what to do and what parts i needed. bought this:

http://www.theinverterstore.com/1200-watt-pure-sine-inverter.html

Also bought some 2awg cable and a 150 w 12v circuit breaker. ill post in here again if i run into trouble putting it in. thanks again.

[mikakuja]

What we have done on our previous TT's... Repeating some of the info already mentioned above...

Our trailers were all 30A service

With the power disconnected from the unit.......

-Transfer switch mounted beside the power center.
-disconnect the main power feed from the main breaker in the control center and feed it into the transfer switch.
-disconnect the 110v side of converter charger from its breaker in the power center and run a length of 14-2 wire from it to the transfer switch. (new single breaker in line between the transfer switch and control center would be recommended).
-connect the shore power and converter charger power into the transfer switch shore input.
-running a new length of 30a wire, connect the transfer switch main out to the control center main breaker.
-now run a 110v line (appropriately sized) from the inverter to the Generator side of the transfer switch.

Everything will now be operational and all outlets in the RV will be powered by either shore or inverter power.
Wired as above the converter charger will only operate on shore power.
The fridge will need to be turned to turned to propane only when using the inverter or it will default to 110v and kill your batteries very quickly. The fridge can be rewired to avoid running it on the inverter if it is wired in the same manor that the converter was (of course using another breaker in line).

A side note; insure you use an appropriately sized fuse and wiring on your inverter, and keep it as close as physically possible to the batteries.
I use 6ft of 0 guage welding cable from the batteries to the inverter with a 150A fuse on our 1500w inverter.

[SoundGuy]

DrewE wrote:
There are single serve coffee makers for desktop use that require as little as 300W or so ...

We use this Cuisinart 4-cup Coffee Maker both at the house and in the camper. It takes just 6 minutes to brew coffee and while doing so draws a measured 505 watts running off my 1000 watt PSW inverter. Works like a charm, no need for anything that draws any more power than that.