Long story, but I'll try to keep it as short as I can.3 years ago, bought a B&M Patriot slider for my RAM 2500.Had the dealer install rails. My first experience, so I didn't know any better. Dealer had trouble getting the base to fit in the rails. After an hour of working on it, they finally got it in.Got home and discovered they installed the base backward.I removed the pins, turned it around and went to reinstall it. Took me about an hour of working with it to finally get the base in to the slots.I could get any 3 tabs in, but the 4th took a lot of working around with a 75 pound hitch to get it in.Recently bought a new RAM 3500 with pucks. I bought a Reese adapter to use the pucks with the same hitch.Now the four tabs slip in, but when I go to put the pins in, I can get the two toward the tailgate with no problem.I can get either one of the two near the cab in, but the other does not go straight in - similar to the rail issue before.If I use a hammer, I can beat the pins in. But, with the new truck, I am trying to make this process better going forward.Measuring the pin holes on the base center-to-center, the holes are right at 28-7/8". They should be 29".If I were to ream out the hole on one side (1/8") or both holes (1/16" each side) it should allow the pins to slide in.This is half inch steel and is very tough. Anyone have any thoughts on how to accomplish the ream?I'm fairly handy, but I do not have any tools that would accomplish this.Thanks for any help.

You can use a carbide rotary file in your cordless drill to elongate the holes where you need to.

Instead of reaming out the hole, I would suggest...Remove the head from the rails. Loosen up the bed rails. Don't remove the nuts from the bolts, just loosen them enough where they may adjust when you put the head and pins back in.Once you loosened up the nuts and blots, place the head back onto the rails. Now put all 4 pins into their holes. All 4 pins should be able to slip into their position easier. If they don't, tap on the rail that needs adjustment until the pins go in correctly.After you get the pins to go in and out to your liking, leave the head on with the pins in place and tighten down the rails. Be careful not to over tighten the bolts to stress them. There is probably a torque setting you should use. I suggest contacting the company for this torque setting. If not available, reference a torque guide for the size and grade of bolt you are using.Test the pins so see if they work better. Repeat if necessary.I used this method and installing and removing my hitch head from the rails was so much easier and less stressful.Good Luck, and let us know if this worked for you.Ben

Well new truck with pucks, I would have the dealer check the install. I have a 2016 Ram 3500 with factory pucks and a Reese picture frame adapter. Mine drops in easily no issues at all. Your old issue with the rails was due to a sloppy installation. The fact that your hitch base drops easily into the frame slots, as they are made to the exact dimensions.

MN Ben wrote:Instead of reaming out the hole, I would suggest...Remove the head from the rails. Loosen up the bed rails. Don't remove the nuts from the bolts, just loosen them enough where they may adjust when you put the head and pins back in.Once you loosened up the nuts and blots, place the head back onto the rails. Now put all 4 pins into their holes. All 4 pins should be able to slip into their position easier. If they don't, tap on the rail that needs adjustment until the pins go in correctly.After you get the pins to go in and out to your liking, leave the head on with the pins in place and tighten down the rails. Be careful not to over tighten the bolts to stress them. There is probably a torque setting you should use. I suggest contacting the company for this torque setting. If not available, reference a torque guide for the size and grade of bolt you are using.Test the pins so see if they work better. Repeat if necessary.I used this method and installing and removing my hitch head from the rails was so much easier and less stressful.Good Luck, and let us know if this worked for you.BenRails were in the old bed. Now have pucks with Reese adapter.

rhagfo wrote:Well new truck with pucks, I would have the dealer check the install. I have a 2016 Ram 3500 with factory pucks and a Reese picture frame adapter. Mine drops in easily no issues at all. Your old issue with the rails was due to a sloppy installation. The fact that your hitch base drops easily into the frame slots, as they are made to the exact dimensions.My issue is the same with rails and with pucks/adapter.The tabs on the head nearest the cab are 28-7/8" apart instead of 29".

Fifth Wheel Hitch issue - How to correct? | Good Sam Community

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2022
I think it also depends on what time of year something is advertised. Like I said I sold my 18k B&W Companion first call for my asking price. That was in the Spring.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2022
humblerb wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Durb wrote:
I would call B&W and tell them your story. It sounds like your hitch was manufactured wrong from the outset. They may send you a new base.

100% agree to contact B&W. They will take care of you if there is a defect.

Let us know what they say.

I did talk to B&W during this process. They were helpful answering questions for me. But, did not discuss replacing the base. Likely, because it is already 3.5 years old. I didn't ask about replacement.

Age has nothing to do with it. They have a lifetime warranty. If it was manufactured wrong they would replace it no questions asked. If it somehow has been bent then that's another story.
cummins2014
Explorer
Feb 13, 2022
humblerb wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
laknox wrote:
Instead of band-aiding this, since you have the pucks, why not sell the current Patriot and replace it with a Patriot OEM? Either used or new. Most B&W hitches in good condition sell for 50%, or more, of MSRP.

Lyle

Not sure if this is the same person but selling the existing and buying the puck slider was mentioned.

B&W's are easy to sell.

I actually tried to sell the Patriot before I was aware of the Reese adapter. I would have sold it in a heartbeat for half the cost of a new hitch. I listed mine locally for $700. Did some research and I could have bought the same hitch in virtually the same condition as mine for around $300. More than one for sale here. Didn't have one contact from a buyer. Resale in the Houston area is not good.

We have a local classifieds here, and anytime you look there are at least 50-60 hitches on there ,about any brand you can think of , including plenty of B&W hitches . When I bought my Andersen , I listed that Reese Signature 18K slider, same head as the Elite , I was practically giving it away ,and I don't remember getting one call on it . Still sitting in my garage .
cummins2014
Explorer
Feb 13, 2022
humblerb wrote:
cummins2014 wrote:
humblerb wrote:
Update:
Well, since I am retired and have lots of time on my hands - I found a coarse round file in my tool box. Used a little (or a lot) of elbow grease and manually reamed slightly. Repeated a few times. I was a little surprised at the ability of the round file, but it worked rather well.
Pins now go in with less hassle. The last one takes a little manipulation for now.
I'd rather have a little tight than a little loose.
As I install and remove the hitch in the future, I may decide to ream a little more.

Curious did you ream the adapter or the tabs, I believe I would ream the adapter , less metal thickness to deal with ,and no compromising those tabs , the adapter frame holes has plenty of steel there that it wouldn't weaken it at all . I know the tabs are pretty thick, but they are also not that wide .

I reamed the the tabs. The steel there is much thicker than the adapter. I felt there was less chance of compromising the steel with the thicker tabs than with the thinner adapter.

Yes, the tabs are much thicker ,but that frame has more mass , and you are going side to side , not up ,and down , you got what three feet of tubing there , there is no compromise if those hole were 1/8" longer . Thats my thinking anyway, and would have been much easier to open up that 1/8" on that thinner tubing . But its done now , sounds like it all worked out .
humblerb
Explorer
Feb 13, 2022
cummins2014 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
laknox wrote:
Instead of band-aiding this, since you have the pucks, why not sell the current Patriot and replace it with a Patriot OEM? Either used or new. Most B&W hitches in good condition sell for 50%, or more, of MSRP.

Lyle

Not sure if this is the same person but selling the existing and buying the puck slider was mentioned.

B&W's are easy to sell.

Like a lot of folks ,they don't know they can get the frame adapter ,and stay with their rail mount hitch . I did ,and the only drawback to it ,it's one more thing to deal with if wanting to remove. Mine hasn't been removed in a couple years now , no need . The ideal thing is it can be removed for the ones that want a clean bed .

The OP asked about selling hitch awhile back, and the frame adapter was suggested , it's unfortunate that he has a hitch that was not built correctly.

Appreciate all your help.
If it helps anyone else, I wanted a way to remove and install my hitch easily, so I can have my bed back when not towing. I can't back my truck far enough in to my shop to clear the raised door (in order to use a winch from the ceiling). My shop is a steel frame and I have a steel header on the door. I installed an eye bolt in the header. Bought a Harbor Freight chain fall (around $60).
Now, I back under the chain fall, lift the base and drive out from under it. I have a rolling cabinet that I lower it on to and move it to storage.
I even use the chain fall on the puck adapter the same way, except when I drive out from under it, I lift one side and unhook from the chain fall and lower that edge to the ground. Then I put it on a dolly and move it to storage. Much, much easier handling all this for a 64 year-old desk jockey.
humblerb
Explorer
Feb 13, 2022
Cummins12V98 wrote:
laknox wrote:
Instead of band-aiding this, since you have the pucks, why not sell the current Patriot and replace it with a Patriot OEM? Either used or new. Most B&W hitches in good condition sell for 50%, or more, of MSRP.

Lyle

Not sure if this is the same person but selling the existing and buying the puck slider was mentioned.

B&W's are easy to sell.

I actually tried to sell the Patriot before I was aware of the Reese adapter. I would have sold it in a heartbeat for half the cost of a new hitch. I listed mine locally for $700. Did some research and I could have bought the same hitch in virtually the same condition as mine for around $300. More than one for sale here. Didn't have one contact from a buyer. Resale in the Houston area is not good.
humblerb
Explorer
Feb 13, 2022
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Durb wrote:
I would call B&W and tell them your story. It sounds like your hitch was manufactured wrong from the outset. They may send you a new base.

100% agree to contact B&W. They will take care of you if there is a defect.

Let us know what they say.

I did talk to B&W during this process. They were helpful answering questions for me. But, did not discuss replacing the base. Likely, because it is already 3.5 years old. I didn't ask about replacement.
humblerb
Explorer
Feb 13, 2022
cummins2014 wrote:
humblerb wrote:
Update:
Well, since I am retired and have lots of time on my hands - I found a coarse round file in my tool box. Used a little (or a lot) of elbow grease and manually reamed slightly. Repeated a few times. I was a little surprised at the ability of the round file, but it worked rather well.
Pins now go in with less hassle. The last one takes a little manipulation for now.
I'd rather have a little tight than a little loose.
As I install and remove the hitch in the future, I may decide to ream a little more.

Curious did you ream the adapter or the tabs, I believe I would ream the adapter , less metal thickness to deal with ,and no compromising those tabs , the adapter frame holes has plenty of steel there that it wouldn't weaken it at all . I know the tabs are pretty thick, but they are also not that wide .

I reamed the the tabs. The steel there is much thicker than the adapter. I felt there was less chance of compromising the steel with the thicker tabs than with the thinner adapter.
cummins2014
Explorer
Feb 10, 2022
MFL wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
I am reserving comment on being built correctly as the OP has not said if he talked to B&W yet about this.

Seriously doubt B&W builds one hitch at a time, so highly unlikely a build flaw. It may be a damage issue, but if OP takes the initiative to call, they will offer help/solution/replacement.

Jerry

Quite possible its damage ,but its the width measurement that's off , not front to back , which I would think would be the culprit . Maybe a sudden stop or whatever ,but not something sideways , but who knows . That measurement has to be 29" , that's what all bed rails ,and these adapters have .

On the other hand ,when they built these steel components , They are jigged , and there would have to be a bunch that got fit that way, not just that one . We jigged a lot of steel parts ,and jigs can get off , but if they have the quality control you all claim, then its pretty doubtful it got built wrong, if so it never left the shop . As critical as that measurement is , and as many as they build ,they surely have no go gauges to check before they go anywhere , we sure did . So the more I think about it ,its been damaged .

But as said 1/8" , if it was me ,I do what he has already done ,and opened up the hole , I just hope it was the adapter , not the tab. We may never know ,but he seems to have solved the problem .
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Feb 10, 2022
MFL wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
I am reserving comment on being built correctly as the OP has not said if he talked to B&W yet about this.

Seriously doubt B&W builds one hitch at a time, so highly unlikely a build flaw. It may be a damage issue, but if OP takes the initiative to call, they will offer help/solution/replacement.

Jerry

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