i have a curt 5th wheel hitch and ive already made adjustments to it. while on vacation i had a couple occasions where the bottom of my 5ver bottomed out against the bed of my truck. how can i increase the didtance between my 5th wheel and rails of my truck, without getting everthing else out of whack?

Put springs on top of axles if not already done that is what I had to do

machunt wrote:i have a curt 5th wheel hitch and ive already made adjustments to it. while on vacation i had a couple occasions where the bottom of my 5ver bottomed out against the bed of my truck. how can i increase the didtance between my 5th wheel and rails of my truck, without getting everthing else out of whack?Really would be helpful to know what truck and trailer you have, first off.Simple things: "flip" the axles (put the springs on top of the axle tube) if not already done; if there are adjustment holes on the spring hangers, make sure you're in the lowest hole. If your truck is fairly recent, there may be factory spacer blocks that can be removed to lower it. If your truck is as low as you can get it (easily) and the FW's as high as you can (easily) get it, and you're still not happy with the spacing, then the only real solution is to add a sub-frame between the springs and the FW frame to get you where you need. You used to be able to gain 2" by adding a CorrectTrack alignment system, but that's been discontinued.Rule of thumb is 6", minimum, bed rail clearance while maintaining the FW level. 2-3" nose high won't really hurt much, IMO, other than (possibly) ride, so if you need it, don't be afraid to raise the hitch or lower the pin box a hole.Lyle

Need more info!One option is lower pin box.

Cummins12V98 wrote:Need more info!One option is lower pin box.A little poking around shows he has a dually(newer?) with LT235/80R17 tires and an Outback 5th wheel 2011. So a subframe lift would be good route to go, as he most likely does not need the full 5.5-6" that "flipping" the axles creates. When I raised my Cardinal I had Smiley's flip the axles and lower the jack plates for a 3.5" increase. the old spring perches made a great jacking spots on the axles. To bad axles do not come with perches welded on both top and bottom of axles. Of course they would need a "This side up labels"!Chris

Is the trailer sitting level when loaded for the road?What pin box is the trailer equipped with? Waht hitch is installed on the truck?How much des the truck sink when trailer is connected and loaded for the road?

height adjustment | Good Sam Community

enblethen
Nomad
Sep 23, 2019
Does your truck have spacer blocks between springs and axle housing?
Me_Again
Explorer III
Sep 23, 2019
machunt wrote:
Because ian not real familiar with what you guys are talking about i will take pictures and post.

as to my curt hitch it is adjusted to the heighest point. i have some adjustment on the pin box but not much. what if i lowered the pin head ?

You want your trailer to ride level for several reason.
1. Equal load on the axles.
2. Help prevent chucking.
3. Bed clearance.

Earlier in your thread I provide a link to a bolt on 'Correct Track' from Lippert that will raise the trailer 2", switching to taller tires can add a little more.

On edit: Looking at pictures of other similar models, it appears that you may already have the Correct Track setup.

Yes pictures would be nice. I try to error high at 8" of bed clearance. Chris
garyp4951
Explorer III
Sep 23, 2019
Yes that will help with the bed clearance.
machunt
Explorer
Sep 23, 2019
Because ian not real familiar with what you guys are talking about i will take pictures and post.

as to my curt hitch it is adjusted to the heighest point. i have some adjustment on the pin box but not much. what if i lowered the pin head ?
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Sep 23, 2019
jaycocamprs wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
"I have my B&W set to the rear on this truck, helps a lot."

Curious why you are setting your pin behind the center of axle instead of in front?

Because I had the same problem the OP has. Entering or exiting my driveway with the 05 truck I had 1/4 to a 1/8 of inch between the bed corners and the underside of the overhang. The driveway slopes up to the road, the road is banked to the other side That truck set the hitch head 2” ahead of the axle. I had 7.5” over the bed rails. Now with the hitch moved back 3”, higher bed sides, and 6.5” over the rails, I have more than an inch. It takes more of an angle to close the vertical distance when the horizontal distance is less. Trailer tows very close to level, takes a tape to tell it’s not. Plus extra inches with the tailgate down. What’s not to like?

Nice!
Does it take some weight off the front? Probably does. But I’ll bet I still have more weight on the front axle than a gas truck. And I’m a long long way from RGAWR. The benefit of having lots more truck than needed.
jaycocamprs
Explorer
Sep 22, 2019
Cummins12V98 wrote:
"I have my B&W set to the rear on this truck, helps a lot."

Curious why you are setting your pin behind the center of axle instead of in front?

Because I had the same problem the OP has. Entering or exiting my driveway with the 05 truck I had 1/4 to a 1/8 of inch between the bed corners and the underside of the overhang. The driveway slopes up to the road, the road is banked to the other side That truck set the hitch head 2” ahead of the axle. I had 7.5” over the bed rails. Now with the hitch moved back 3”, higher bed sides, and 6.5” over the rails, I have more than an inch. It takes more of an angle to close the vertical distance when the horizontal distance is less. Trailer tows very close to level, takes a tape to tell it’s not. Plus extra inches with the tailgate down. What’s not to like?

Does it take some weight off the front? Probably does. But I’ll bet I still have more weight on the front axle than a gas truck. And I’m a long long way from RGAWR. The benefit of having lots more truck than needed.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Sep 22, 2019
"I have my B&W set to the rear on this truck, helps a lot."

Curious why you are setting your pin behind the center of axle instead of in front?
rhagfo
Explorer III
Sep 21, 2019
machunt wrote:
as mentioned in other post 2011 outback, 2013 chevy 1 ton dually. ive only had issues on this trip. i am only looking for a couple inches. and yes trailer sits very level as is. not really wanting to get into axle flipping and all that

What is your 5er to rail clearance currently? Is the pin box cushioned or fixed?
We have right at 6” clearance with level setup, we have one host site that exit is fairly sharp turn up hill, it gets close but doesn’t touch.
What are you driving over or where that you are making contact.
jaycocamprs
Explorer
Sep 21, 2019
Does the Curt have any fore & aft adjustment? Moving the hitch head back will help keep the rear corners from hitting. I have my B&W set to the rear on this truck, helps a lot.
Me_Again
Explorer III
Sep 17, 2019
machunt wrote:
as mentioned in other post 2011 outback, 2013 chevy 1 ton dually. ive only had issues on this trip. i am only looking for a couple inches. and yes trailer sits very level as is. not really wanting to get into axle flipping and all that

Do the spring hangers have lower holes that the spring can be moved to? Also Lippert Correct Track will raise the trailer 2" inches.

https://store.lci1.com/correct-track-suspension-alignment