Question bolting up new axles...

In order to prevent the bolts from turning you need to press the bolts in and hold the bolt to prevent it turning when you torque them.

I also stopped yesterday and talked with the shop foreman that does trailer alignment and said pretty much what ya'll guys said. With new bushings in everything, new hanger kit, etc when I bolt everything up it should be where factory put it assuming frame hasn't been bent. He also suggested to bring by when I finish and they will check alignment for me at no charge.
Thanks again,
Dennis

socoguy wrote:
Would be an opportune time to add wet bolts (greasable zerk fittings).
Bolts should be set flush. Your photo worked fine.

I stopped yesterday and picked up the greasable bolts I need for this. Only had 7 in stock but will have the others in this week. I will wait to finish bolting axles up until they get here.
Thanks,
Dennis

Drive bolt into hanger until flush. I tapped mine with a hammer, tightened nut, tapped bolt with hammer, etc. until flush. That bolt is serrated so it is designed NOT to turn.

Vulcaneer wrote:
Oh! You dropped out both axles? How you gunna make sure your axles are aligned perpendicular to the kingpin? Lots of people make that mistake. Now you have to bolt everything up and hope for the best. Maybe try the string method to get you close. But get to a good alignment shop ASAP. BE SURE TO DO THAT.

You do realize that there are center bolts in the springs for this purpose, don't you? The axles have a hole that the center bolt goes into so the alignment should be real close to what it was.

Thanks guys. I have grade 5 bolts so will pull them to 60 lbs.

I didn't know about the wet kit for the hangers and trailer supply place didn't mention them as an option, sure wish I'd known.

I figured that if I kept the bolts centered I'd be ok on alignment of axles but the suggestion of having them checked probably worth doing.

This was my first travel trailer of three and still like using it for short trips. I've probably spent more keeping it up than I should have but we set up at gun shows, flea markets, etc and 28 ft great for getting around civic center parking lots and still plenty room for my wife and I for weekend shows.
Dennis

What I did when doing this was to use a brass hammer to drive the bolt in so the head touches the hanger, then install and tighten the nuts to spec. If you weren't given specs with the kit a grade 5 bolt (3 marks on head) should be tightend to 60 ft. lbs. If they are grade 8 bolts then use 90 ft. lbs.

My bushings were long enough to prevent collapsing the spring hanger legs together.

Assuming the original spring hangers were welded in the proper place to align the original axles, the replacements will be aligned the same ASSUMING the spring pads are engaged with the pin in the center of the springs.

Oh! You dropped out both axles? How you gunna make sure your axles are aligned perpendicular to the kingpin? Lots of people make that mistake. Now you have to bolt everything up and hope for the best. Maybe try the string method to get you close. But get to a good alignment shop ASAP. BE SURE TO DO THAT.
As for the bolts, torque them according to the bolt spec's. Be sure to check the Bolts grade before checking the spec's. Grade 5 have a different spec than a grade 8.

Would be an opportune time to add wet bolts (greasable zerk fittings).
Bolts should be set flush. Your photo worked fine.

Ever watch a vehicle go down the roat catywampus? Like axle wasn't aligned?. May be a good idea to alignn those axles.