Trailer hitch for fifth wheel

I'm with Dayle1. Reese Revolution (also known as Sidewinder) is what I use on my Ram with 5'7" box. Works like a charm.

semlohde wrote:
I would have liked for someone to finish this thread too but I've fought this since December too. I have a 2014 ram and it's bed is 6'4" on the inside. 6'2" along the rim but from pin center to the cab is 6'4". My pin is a lippert 1716 and it's long. I've already dimpled my cab. So got the slider everyone says I don't need. Not this reese slider and lippert pin box go right to the tailgate, and I mean up to it so it's all but worthless. I raised the truck hitch to its last bolts but that raised the trailer. I raised the pin box to lower the trailer and level it and that almost killed me and friends. Some say it's easy and 30 minutes. Bull with all respect. So the trailer can be level and hit the tailgate and sides or raised and more weight on the rear axle that I'm told is taboo. I've been told to change the pin box to the trailair 1116 but that's ANOTHER 900$ and someone to install it. And then it moves the trailer 6" forward or closer to the cab I've already kissed. But it clears the tailgate and sides!!! It's catch 22. Now ford has a bed 4 inches longer so the longer pin box fits - as I understand anyway. But this 400+$ then another 600+$ and now the estimate for the trailair installed of 1200 is starting to sting my retired hinnie!

Forget all that and get the Reese Revolution (aka Sidewinder) pin box. It moves the pivot point behind the truck's axle but does not change location of the pin weight. Then you won't have a long pin box rotating at the hitch and having the back side of the pin box hitting the tailgate or sides of the truck bed.

Furch5263 wrote:
I have 2011 dodge dually hooked up to 04 Montana. The hitch is a 16k reese slider. Its noisy as hell but works good. Just make noise starting and stopping. If i did it over most of folks that i have talked on this site said B&W is better. Probably go that route. Anyway, prior to the dodge had an 04 f350 crew short bed and blew out rear electric slider on uneven ground because i thought i did not need to slide hitch. Expensive window for the insurance company. Any way i would advise you to go with the auto hitch. And at very least if you go manual slide; slide it back every time even if you don't think you need it. Keeps rollers on hitch moving and is just the safe thing to so.

Sell what you have and get a B&W. Silence is golden!

I have 2011 dodge dually hooked up to 04 Montana. The hitch is a 16k reese slider. Its noisy as hell but works good. Just make noise starting and stopping. If i did it over most of folks that i have talked on this site said B&W is better. Probably go that route. Anyway, prior to the dodge had an 04 f350 crew short bed and blew out rear electric slider on uneven ground because i thought i did not need to slide hitch. Expensive window for the insurance company. Any way i would advise you to go with the auto hitch. And at very least if you go manual slide; slide it back every time even if you don't think you need it. Keeps rollers on hitch moving and is just the safe thing to so.

For my hitch, the difference between the slider and fixed was $200. That's a no brainer. How much does a rear window cost, or one dent removal? Not supposed to need it with the front cap design on my Sundance, but really, pay the little extra and never have to worry about it.

I would have liked for someone to finish this thread too but I've fought this since December too. I have a 2014 ram and it's bed is 6'4" on the inside. 6'2" along the rim but from pin center to the cab is 6'4". My pin is a lippert 1716 and it's long. I've already dimpled my cab. So got the slider everyone says I don't need. Not this reese slider and lippert pin box go right to the tailgate, and I mean up to it so it's all but worthless. I raised the truck hitch to its last bolts but that raised the trailer. I raised the pin box to lower the trailer and level it and that almost killed me and friends. Some say it's easy and 30 minutes. Bull with all respect. So the trailer can be level and hit the tailgate and sides or raised and more weight on the rear axle that I'm told is taboo. I've been told to change the pin box to the trailair 1116 but that's ANOTHER 900$ and someone to install it. And then it moves the trailer 6" forward or closer to the cab I've already kissed. But it clears the tailgate and sides!!! It's catch 22. Now ford has a bed 4 inches longer so the longer pin box fits - as I understand anyway. But this 400+$ then another 600+$ and now the estimate for the trailair installed of 1200 is starting to sting my retired hinnie!

I am going to go out on a limb here and say you don't need the slider. I have a slider but my front cap is more square. No Turn Tec cap on my Chapparal. Got a dent in the cab to prove I need to use the slider. Good luck, John

I tow without a sliding hitch with a 6 1/2' bed truck.

The trailer nose cap design is the determinate if a sliding hitch is required.

A slider is generally used for a short bed truck.

Merlins wrote:
We've received conflicting information as sto whether or not we should have a slider hitch for our Brookstone fifth wheel. Please give us your thoughts.
We have an F350 crew cab short bed (6 3/4 ft bed)and a Coachman Brookstone 325 RL fifth wheel.

My 02 D'max 4x4 2500 will NOT hit my truck going forward, and I have a very square front FW. ALL will hit in reverse; some faster than others. That being said, if you have 2wd you will likely have a shorter turning radius, so the FW you choose can have a big effect. You'll read plenty of posts from guys who went for a slider then never used it; others who use them all the time. My recommendation for a hitch of any sort, is the B&W Companion; stabdard or slider.

Lyle