Anyone know if 120v wiring TO slide out spaces travels in roof space or under the slide? I’ve isolated a short problem in a Montana 3400RL (that trips the kitchen GFI) to the kitchen leg that runs to the DR/LR slide space. Only operates the ceiling light, wall light and two outlets in series. The ceiling light is about 6” from the interior side of the slide ceiling. Thoughts? Trying to understand IF I can access that romex and what the fix or new run should look like if I choose to fix.

Under the floor to the slide out. Look under and you should see a wire bundle.

Under the slide on the frame will be junction box look in it my bet is a burned wire nut

Almost certainly under the corroplast and then an extendable loop under the slide. Extend the slide and get underneath and look at the bottom. Usually there will be a loop of wire suspended by springs, so that it can extend/retract while keeping the wires tucked up. Good chance you will find your fault there too, since that is the least protected area. Maybe where the wires pass through the frame. That's a likely pinch or scrape area.

My old Komfort had a heavy coil cord that ran on a guide rod from under the belly covering to the outer wall. I guess that's now too expensive, so they just put a bunch of slack in a straight wire bundle and hope it doesn't tangle.Lyle

Those connectors often used for slides can be a source of problems. I pulled the plug on a trailer that was smoking from that junk.

Wiring trouble shooting question | Good Sam Community

bpounds
Nomad
Oct 06, 2018
Roger10378 wrote:
Don't use Romex as it is not meant to flex constantly. That part of the wire should be a stranded wire. There is probably a junction box at each end of the flexible wire so I would replace the wire from box to box.

Agree with this. I also would not solder 120v connections. No good reason to, and that section of soldered wire becomes the same as solid wire, likely to break strands at the edge of the solder.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Oct 06, 2018
Imbriaco wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
The slides are powered under the slide and are attached to the supporting swing arms.

I added a 20A circuit to my kitchen with 12/3 "SO" cord and followed other wiring.

My slides are hydraulic, with the motor and pump in the battery compartment up front. I assume that means I have NO wires running into slides meant to power the slide??

I am talking the 120V that is within the slide is supplied with "SO" cord from main part of RV along the swing arms and into the slide.
Roger10378
Explorer II
Oct 06, 2018
Don't use Romex as it is not meant to flex constantly. That part of the wire should be a stranded wire. There is probably a junction box at each end of the flexible wire so I would replace the wire from box to box.
RickLight
Explorer III
Oct 06, 2018
One of my favorite items for exposed electrical repair is called "Liquid Electrical Tape". It's a sticky paste that you dab onto things and seals like nothing else I know. I've been known to dip entire wire nut connections for outdoor work and paint insulation damage.

If the copper isn't damaged you can save a lot of time and effort with this stuff!
Carl_n_Susan
Nomad II
Oct 05, 2018
The 120V, 12V power and the propane line run under the slideout to a junction box at the rear of the slide on a Montana 3400. The junction box is a well known source of problems as it tend to leak. Remove the cover and check the 120V wiring there. Most likely the crimped connections have corroded and/or chafed causing the fault. The best solution is to solder the joints and seal them with heat shrink.

The Montana Owners Club (MOC) forum at www.montanaowners.com is a repository of all things Montana supported by over 15,000 owners. It is free to join and highly recommended.
B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Oct 05, 2018
donn0128 wrote:
Personally I would strip the wires back and do a good solder joint. Followed by heat shrink tubing and it will be good as new.
Same here. Just a crimp on butt splice with tape will never do. It has to be protected from any water intrusion and just tape will not do that.

B.O.
donn0128
Explorer II
Oct 05, 2018
Personally I would strip the wires back and do a good solder joint. Followed by heat shrink tubing and it will be good as new.
bpounds
Nomad
Oct 05, 2018
Imbriaco wrote:

My slides are hydraulic, with the motor and pump in the battery compartment up front. I assume that means I have NO wires running into slides meant to power the slide??

I don't think any of them have the slide drive inside the slide, and if they did, it would be 12vdc, not 120vac.

I assumed you meant the power running to receptacles in the slide is shorting, and that's why the GFCI in the kitchen is tripping. Same circuit.
laknox
Nomad
Oct 05, 2018
Imbriaco wrote:

My slides are hydraulic, with the motor and pump in the battery compartment up front. I assume that means I have NO wires running into slides meant to power the slide??

One would assume so. :B

Lyle
Imbriaco
Explorer
Oct 05, 2018
Cummins12V98 wrote:
The slides are powered under the slide and are attached to the supporting swing arms.

I added a 20A circuit to my kitchen with 12/3 "SO" cord and followed other wiring.

My slides are hydraulic, with the motor and pump in the battery compartment up front. I assume that means I have NO wires running into slides meant to power the slide??