2010 e450 6.8L Trans Fluid and Filter Chg

I am of the opinion if you have to ask how to do something of that magnitude, you probably should not be doing it.

Thanks for the advice DTA. Typically I'm right there with you on that thought process. But I also subscribe to the mindset of trying to learn new things when possible.

After getting a clear picture of what I think needs to happen, I'll usually factor in required tools, time involved, skillset vs. required skillset, savings, and finally percentage of possibility that I screw something up :)
Just trying to get a clear picture of what is required at the moment.

Now is a good time to learn. New gasket do not tighten screws to tight and you got it.I do not know of an external filter. Internal you already know. Have fun. I do not know if you will need that much fluid unless you change the tork converter fluid.

Glad for you...Always best to do your own work if possible. Just going to mention fluids and filter in this post. Just bolts mostly...When we got our 2003 ex rental, every fluid and filter got drained and changed. That way you know the condition and how many miles on the fluid to start your own maint program. (If interested in other normal wear and tear parts that I replaced, PM me.)

What else you might need to know. First time under your rig...Lots heavier than your car. Make sure jacks or ramps or whatever you are using can support it can stand the weight.

Find out the torque spec's on the bolts you take out, so you can put them back without ant leaks or broken bolts.

If you don't know what trans you have but find tourque spec's here. https://www.globaltransmissionparts.com/ford-transmission-parts/

I always use my fingers to put trans pan back on till until they get so tight I can't. On my 03 the bolts are steel and body of trans is alum, so did't want any chance of cross threading. (Maybe your is different?)

When waiting for stuff to drain I always look around doing my own little inspection. Looking for loose bolts or other fluids leaking etc.

Those Triton motors prefer an oil filter with a "silicone" valve built into them. The valve prevents oil from leaking down when motor off so every time you start it, is a "dry" start. Ford OEM is what I buy.

If you don't have torque wrench, do your home work. You don't have to give your first born but at same time my cheap harbor freight I bought was only off by about 50%. Ended up buying the old style "beam" bar torque wrench.

Another filter is the fuel filter, you might have to buy little plastic disk looking things ($10-$15.00) to dis-connect the filter.

Be aware...I poured some "sea foam" into mine to clean it out. It cleaned out tank so good that some debris on the bottom of tank broke free and plugged up fuel filter and the filter went obviously into "by pass" mode and then some debris plugged up injectors. Not a big job to fix, but sure took a lot of time. Price for new injectors was around $80.00 each if I remember right. I ended up picking metal shavings from them clean up with a magnifying glass under a good light. I believe they came the generator fuel line that motorhome maker drills to install, not entirely sure.

Cooling system. Drain plug on radiator, was told they break easy and plastic with rubber washer. So I left it place and sucked out the fluid with cheap $5.00 hand transfer pump, to drain and replace cooling fluid.

:) Hint...I now carry mechanic hand soap/cleaner in a plastic bag inside a coffee can. The plastic bottle broke and was a mess to clean up, riding inside compartment.:)

Never heard of an external filter.

The simplest thing to do is drop the pan, replace the filter (probably not necessary) and then top it off with Mercon LV. If you are dropping the pan, you need a ATD Tools 5192 Transmission Drain Funnel over a large catch pan.




I know this will only get about 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid, but the only way to get 100% of the fluid out is to disconnect the pressure line to the cooler, attach a hose to it and then into a 5 gallon bucket. Start the engine and start adding ATF like crazy until you have about 2 gallons in the bucket.

You are still going to spill some, so make sure to lay down a lot of cardboard.

Had a shop do the NEWER low pressure flush on mine cost was $168, 30000 mile service and I didn't spill a drop on the driveway or get my fingers soiled. Getting too old for the services even though I could still do it with a few choice words and a cleanup crew.

LEN

Youtube

https://youtu.be/-_sMjGBgQ90

https://youtu.be/R7tj_DFGpAs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYKMEHMYF3s

F models do have the external filter, not sure about E series. Watch the first vid to see what he has to say about the external filter.

Charles

Update: Filter / Fluid Change Complete.

Thank you to all who responded. I appreciate all the wisdom!

Notes from the job...

1) I got almost 11 quarts drained by dropping the pan and changing the filter. I believe dry it takes 18. If I'm feeling bored and want to burn more money I may do just another drain and fill to try and get some of the remaining.

2) Gasket is supposed to be reusable, I have 140K so I thought I would replace it anyway (it's a nice thick rubber one). Ford Parts were closed so went to Auto Parts store looking for gasket. All they have are skinny little felt looking ones...My "old" one looked and felt 500% better so I just cleaned it up and put it back on.

3) The little orange rubber gasket on the filter took about 5 minutes to retrieve it from the opening where the old filter came out of..beware of the fact they like to hide in there when you take the old filter out.

4) Didn't have a torque wrench so just tightened all pan bolts very little. Took it for an hour long spin and no leaks (knock on wood).

I can now scratch that off my auto repair bucket list.