Anode rod in waterheater

x(how many) replies above. I use two kinds of tape when installing the anode rod in our Suburban SW6DE water heater:

1. Teflon Tape on the Threads, applied by winding it around the threads as if by tightening the plug.

2. Electrical Tape around the Head of the Plug. Then I can force it into the Socket that I use to tighten it with. Then, with an extension in the socket, I position the anode plug in the socket so the anode and rod and the extension are lined up straight. That makes it easy to get the plug threads started into the hole in the tank.

Before, I tried to stick the anode into the thank and align the threads with just my fingers on the head of the plug. What with the weight of the anode inside the tank, the angle of the hole, and other parts of the heater near the hole, I found it difficult. Using tape, socket, extension, made it very easy.

Call me Anal and you won't be the first. I'm also risk averse and really don't want to wrench on a cross-threaded plug, thinking I'd started it right.

Suburban anode rods are 9" long (mag is OEM/Alum is option)
They both are 3/4" threads....only size Suburban uses

Tanks are 16" plus deep ----combustion/exhaust 'U' tube is stacked and to the right of area anode rod goes in.

Suburban is the only one that requires an anode rod.

All of you that want to install an anode on your water heaters there are two sizes a long one and a short one, the short one is fine on any tank, the long one only fits one type of thank, should you install the long one on the wrong tank the anode will puncture the heat tube, and that means a new tank.

Before purchasing the anode measure with a chop stick how far it is before it makes contact, then purchase the anode in accordance with the length use tape and tighten enough that there are no leaks, do not over tighten!

navegator

Man O man, it came out of there, right? So it should go back in, duh. Frankly, I would barely re-install it without tape. All you want to do is keep bugs out of there while stored for the winter. Done this for years.

If you are replacing the same one that came out, it should go back in with no problem. Mine does not screw in all the way on my TT. I screw it in just enough it's tight and just a little more snug tug. If it don't leak, it's good.

(sorry duplicate)

Idawonder wrote:
... My question is should this plug be flush and is it possible to put another anode rod that is not that long into this water heater. The model number for the heater is sw6d and it is a suburban brand heater. Thank you.

At least on mine the "plug" (threads on anode) are not flush when anode is screwed back in. And on some older PDF files on internet, some show a rubber gasket, that serves no purpose. If no leaks you're good to go. I agree 100% with above posts.

The threads on an anode rod are tapered. It will not go all the way in (flush).
Use the 9" rod. There is plenty of room inside the tank for it.

OEM Suburban anode rod is 9"

Drain hole and anode rod threads are 3/4" NPT (National Pipe Tapered) meaning when installing they get tighter as plug is screwed into drain hole

As long as it doesn't leak all is good.

If it leaks then you may need to clean up threads or use a new anode rod.

But think you will be OK