Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

[fulltimin]

Started to look into some water damage in the kitchen of our 83 Pace Arrow. The more I looked, the more I found. I have some pics of the damage so far. Anyone interested in following a rebuild thread?

[fulltimin]

I finished the front of the drivers side roofing tonight. That will be cured tomorrow, yay!

[fulltimin]

don/lou wrote:
Can't we all just get along?

Sure!

[fulltimin]

2bzy2c wrote:


These are rubber, but there are plastic and metal U channels that could provide a nice finished look along with some added durability

I'll have to look at some of the options. Thanks.

[fulltimin]

Bruce Brown wrote:
Looks like it should work. Just be sure to run some Gorilla tape on the edge where it loops back underneath. You don't want that edge rubbing on your membrane.

Correct. Thanks.

[fulltimin]

STBRetired wrote:
You might want to consider something like a plastic U channel to put over that edge. That's a pretty sharp bend and I don't think it would take much of a rub by a tree branch or something similar to damage the roof covering.

I don't hit trees! Lol. Famous last words. That's a good point.

The drawing is rough representation, and can be adjusted between now and the time I cover it with something.

I agree, sharp corners are not really a great idea.

Thanks.

[PastorCharlie]

My Newmar has a Brite Tex roofing and I like it. A single sheet covers the entire roof. My former motorhome had a rubber roof and it required constant maintenance to keep clean.

[2bzy2c]

I can agree that this project is "over the top" and has a touch of insanity sprinkled among all the various adhesives and rust proofing products. But there are few who have actually taken it this far. Many others I have followed give up after 6 months of aggravation, blisters and exhausted checking accounts. They mostly end up donating the RV (If they will even take it), and buying a good used RV and go fishing.

I believe what he has done thus far is the easy part. Now comes the hard part. Cabinets, wiring, plumbing, flooring, and yes, eventually the mechanics of the RV chassis. It is such a very long road. Kudos to him for taking it this far. Prayers to help him get through the next phase.

[don_lou]

deleted

[Bill_Satellite]

You just have to give him "creds" for trying to reinvent the wheel (RV). He even said he was not trying to "rebuild an RV" (as the topic might suggest), but rather turn an RV into a "home style" vehicle.
No one else will ever do anything like this and the plan will not be of any value to any RVer, but this forum has opened this up to him posting his own personal blog and that's where we stand. It really has no value to any regular RVer but there you go...............Can't wait to see how many posts he makes about ChemLink this week.......

[2bzy2c]

These are rubber, but there are plastic and metal U channels that could provide a nice finished look along with some added durability

[STBRetired]

You might want to consider something like a plastic U channel to put over that edge. That's a pretty sharp bend and I don't think it would take much of a rub by a tree branch or something similar to damage the roof covering.

[Bruce_Brown]

Looks like it should work. Just be sure to run some Gorilla tape on the edge where it loops back underneath. You don't want that edge rubbing on your membrane.

[fulltimin]

So, just exactly what is the solution?

Here's the pic/drawing.







The explanation is this. We have the steel, then, the 1/2 inch round steel rod.

The blue area here represents the wood on the roof, which is glued and screwed down to the joists.

The red line indicates the flexible membrane. Running the membrane down over the edge, then under the round steel rod, and fastening it with a "green" screw, will tightly secure the membrane to the steel.

This fastens the membrane before the screw goes through the membrane. That will tightly secure the membrane, and not allow for movement, not will the water flow upward to cause a leak.

The membrane should be glued to the plywood roof, and as such the round rod and the screws will not be holding a lot pressure because of the glued membrane.

Seems like a win/win to me. Maybe I am missing something, and if so, please advise, but it looks like it should work well.

Still qualifies for genius or crazy status, depending on your viewpoint. Either way, it should eliminate wall to roof leaks. 🙂

[fulltimin]

Just for the sake of comparison, this socket illustrates a 3/4 inch diameter piece of steel, or whatever in the "groove".

[fulltimin]

Bruce Brown wrote:
What are you going to use for roof material and how do you plan on fastening it?

Normally either rubber, TPO, or fiberglass is glued down then the edges mechanically fastened. I'm not seeing how you could do that with your design. There just isn't enough beef on the edge to allow mechanical fastening, is there?

That is a good question. Thanks for asking.

Ok, now on to the next explanation. Using a flexible roofing material would be the easiest.

As you know, I have installed a piece of steel on both sides, with about a 1.5 inch bent overhang.

First of all, here is a piece of that steel, with a 1/2 inch piece of steel stuck in the "groove".