Battery’s not charging

sssooo wrote:
I did have one dead battery I changed it last nite when I disconnected the battery lights went out,but they were out because the batterys were dead??
with new battery lits were on for a few hours then they went out?

OK I don't know what charging system you have in the Bounder but it has failed or there is an open circuit. Please post the model number of the inverter/charger or converter that is supposed to supply 12v power.

In the mean time you are killing the battery with over discharging. Get down to walmart or the autoparts store and get a portable automatic charger of 5+ amps and get it direct on the battery. Do this before anything else.

Since when you changed the battery out the lights were on, that narrows the issue to the charging.

Do you know what converter you have (battery charge)?

Have you checked the shore power outlet to see if it has power?

Have you checked a 120 volt outlet inside the RV (use a lamp)?

Have you checked the reverse polarity fuses on the converter? (don't just look at them, use a meter or continuity checker)

I did have one dead battery I changed it last nite when I disconnected the battery lights went out,but they were out because the batterys were dead??
with new battery lits were on for a few hours then they went out?

Possible problems:
1: Batteries disconnected (Store mode. Aux off, Whatever)
2: Fuses blown Battery main, or converter (To test disconnect batteries with interior lights on. if they go out (Perhaps after a period of time like 1 minute or less) converter side issues If they remain bright. Converter good)
3: There are fuses on the converter if it is a stand alone. if it's part of the power distribution panel (Fuse/breaker box) then they are USUALLY (not always) the fuses on the right. also USUALLY 30 amp but again not necessarly. ALL reverse polarity fuses must be replaced at teh same tiem while UNPLUGGed from shore.

4 Fried convreter (I have a fried converter if you want one :) )

5 Now... MY converter is a Progressive Dynamics 9180 Plug in model with wizard. Why do I tell you this.. From time to time the first one failed. Not sure if the replacement failed but there were two kinds of failure.. The last failure of the first one was "Fried converter replacw"

The earlier failures were the old "lady I think I see your problem already"

Plug - - - - - Socket
Restored the plug to socket and all was good just like magic.

Hi Scott,
Can we get a tiny bit more information so we can hopefully help?

How do you know it is not charging on AC? Are you looking at the charge panel, are you using a multimeter, or are you observing the lights are getting dim?

Is this a new coach to you?

Did it ever charge when plugged into 15 amp?

Do you have a multimeter?

Do you know how to use the meter to check the voltage?

Have you checked for a battery disconnect switch? Maybe look inside the door by the steps.

Does the battery charge with the generator running?

Have you looked at the fuses and circuit breakers to see if anything is blown or tripped?

sssooo wrote:
My 2018 bounder is not charging the house batteries while plugged into electric,it it just 15 amp but it should still charge I would think? Help

Exactly HOW you have it connected to a 15 amp service is important.

If your main service is 50 amp style, your adapter down to a 15 amp connection might be connected to only one side of the 50 amp wiring.......and your converter is on the OTHER side, which is dead.

Is your battery disconnect switch off?

Put your voltmeter on the battery. Measure the voltage. Start the engine. Voltage should go up towards 14 volts. If it does, that circuit is good. Now you have to measure the output of the converter when plugged in right on the converter terminals. If it measure 14 volts, then measure the voltage at the battery. If it is not the same at the converter output, then there is a loose wire between the converter and the battery. It might be the positive feed, or the negative return. Use a jumper cable from the battery negative to the negative terminal on the converter. Did that fix it? It's the negative wire feed. Try the positive. Did that fix it, it's the positive.

It will need to be at least 14 volts to push a significant charging current into the battery. A DC clampmeter is the tool of choice to measure the charging current in amps. Multiply by the number of hours charging at that current to get the charging energy in amp-hours and compare with the rated energy capacity of the battery.

Check for voltage increase when you first plug in. Start at the battery bank, and work your way backwards to the converter.