Changing tire on new 2017 class c

But can you get your Wheel Simulators off? I looked but didn't see where that point was settled.

I covet your 2 stage jack. My advice to get that is based on doing some research after listening to others' experiences. I already had a single piston 12-ton. Thought it was no longer working, and bought a 10-ton that HF was selling at the time we got the 2003 coach. Knowing better now, any "RV" jack I replace or recommend will be what Phil and others now have. But with a working 12, a newer 10, a 6, a 4, and two 2's I don't think it's time to add one.

I've changed only one Class C flat. Left rear blowout on old E350. Blocked the RF wheel and lifted LR with a the LR hydraulic leveling jack. Ignorance. That 1984 coach had four individual leveling controls, and I don't think anybody was worried about racking the coach by lifting one corner by the chassis.

Only other emergency stuff I've done was stuck brake calipers on RF and RR. Used the 10T at campsites and it turned out OK. I'm sure the state parks didn't want me doing that but I was kinda stuck and it worked out the coach was pointed away from the casually curious. I went back and did the other side of the brakes, but at home on the concrete pad.

Thank you everyone for the great info!!!

pnichols wrote:
Robert (the OP),

Your chrome wheel covers are just like those on my Ford E450 motorhome. Those chrome knobs that look like lug nuts are of course covering up the real lug nuts that are under each knob. Two of those chrome knobs screw on/off and hold the chrome wheel cover in place against the steel rim behind. The two knobs that do this are 180 degrees apart across from each other. Our motorhome (Winnebago Itasca) came with a neat little wrench specially made to fit these two knobs for screwing them on/off. Your rig may have one of these special knob removal wrenches tucked away somewhere in one of it's storage bays. Ours came in a snap bracket that stores it neatly on a sidewall of the rear exterior storage bay.

BE AWARE that those knobs screw onto about the final 1/4 inch of a wheel lug and because of this the knob's threads can easily be cross-threaded and ruined. If you ruin one chrome knob on a trip, you have to not use the big chrome wheel cover, as you shouldn't rely on just one chrome knob to hold a chrome cover in place. It's hard to find a storage place for the large awkward one chrome wheel cover that you have to keep off the wheel for the remainder of the trip. I have had to buy more of the chrome retainer knobs and we now carry along a spare chrome knob.

It's too late now, but the jack you bought does not look like the two stage type that j-d shows above. That 12 ton double ram hydraulic bottle jack lifts extra high, while at the same time fully retracts real low - offering more flexibility to meet a large variety of jacking situations. We have carried one like it for years in our motorhome just in case ... as you never know what type of surface you might need to be placing the jack on or what jacking point on the frame you may need to use. We bring along many pieces of wood and blocks to provide a broader base for the jack on soft or irregular surfaces, as we sometimes travel and camp off-highway and have to be ready for anything.

We also carry along a couple of those pre-charged canisters for inflating truck tires, plus we also carry along a regular commercial truck tire puncture hole plugging kit ... along with a mounted spare inflated to it's full Load Range E pressure of 80 lbs.. To got with all of these items, we always pack along a full power 120V air compressor that can quickly inflate a truck tire ... the built-in generator can power it anywhere anytime.

Expect the best, but prepare for the worst ... I only wish that I could afford a satellite phone for our RV trips!

Thanks so much. I ended up returning that jack and getting a 2 stage. Thanks for all the info!

Islandman wrote:
Won't hurt to also have some of the reflective triangles and/or roadside flares to warn approaching traffic that you're stopped along the highway; this is especially important where you can't get off the travel way onto a wide shoulder or a turnout. Have some good flashlights also for night changing.

X2 Great post...

This very salient point had been overlooked.

A few of us in our family are on critical medication, so the first thing I pack is the meds so we don't forget it. In addition to the wheel tools, I pack a 1/4 inch flex head ratchet with both SAE and Metric sockets, some extensions, one of those screwdrivers with a small box of different type tips, a multimeter, vise grips, and AAA plus RV in case I need to be towed. And don't forget the charger for the phone.

Just a wild idea since you just bought it new just maybe the dealer you bought if from could answer your question and possibly even show you how to remove them.

Won't hurt to also have some of the reflective triangles and/or roadside flares to warn approaching traffic that you're stopped along the highway; this is especially important where you can't get off the travel way onto a wide shoulder or a turnout. Have some good flashlights also for night changing.

pnichols wrote:

pauldub wrote:
pnichols, the satelite phones are expensive to own and operate but a satelite messenger device is affordable. Take a look at Garmin's inReach devices.

Yes, I'm aware of some of those services. A few of the SPOT units and services look interesting, too. They seem to concentrate primarily on medical emergencies and personal rescue. Can you contact ERS through any of these?

In addition to the above, what I would also like is an ERS service that covers coming to help into some of the remote areas where we sometimes go with our RV. The premiums would cost more, but hopefully they would come to help at way less cost than having no coverage at all when off-highway.

The Garmin inReach lets you text send messages to anyone with a cell phone or you can send email. That doesn't necessarily contact an ERS directly but I could send a text message to someone who could call them for me.

Here's a pic of a Dicor nut. Seems the ones mentioned above have the dimples turned 90* so they're vertical



We can call AAA for our "RV Plus" roadside assistance. Still, I want to be fully equipped in case

1. They can't come out

2. They come out and find they forgot a needed tool

3. They aren't out and a Good Samaritan wants to help me

4. I end up changing it myself

To the OP ... if you still haven't found the very well camouflaged nuts that remove the simulator or hubcap or wheel cover, I helped a friend on a Ford chassis Class A last week, and the 2 secret nuts were very subtly marked with a small line that was parallel to the lug bolt (came straight out from the wheel and was about 1/2" long) and only on one or two sides of the nut. Wipe clean, look carefully and may have to find it by braille!
Good luck!