Changing tire on new 2017 class c

pauldub wrote:
pnichols, the satelite phones are expensive to own and operate but a satelite messenger device is affordable. Take a look at Garmin's inReach devices.

Yes, I'm aware of some of those services. A few of the SPOT units and services look interesting, too. They seem to concentrate primarily on medical emergencies and personal rescue. Can you contact ERS through any of these?

In addition to the above, what I would also like is an ERS service that covers coming to help into some of the remote areas where we sometimes go with our RV. The premiums would cost more, but hopefully they would come to help at way less cost than having no coverage at all when off-highway.

pnichols, the satelite phones are expensive to own and operate but a satelite messenger device is affordable. Take a look at Garmin's inReach devices.

mrdcb18 wrote:
You should have roadside assistance with the new chassis from Ford. We had it with both our new Ford motorhome chassis. You just need a spare. Should last 5 years.

And you need 1)cell phone, 2)cell phone service, and 3)roadside service provider nearby. 2) and 3) are not available in many areas of the western states.

You should have roadside assistance with the new chassis from Ford. We had it with both our new Ford motorhome chassis. You just need a spare. Should last 5 years.

Robert (the OP),

Your chrome wheel covers are just like those on my Ford E450 motorhome. Those chrome knobs that look like lug nuts are of course covering up the real lug nuts that are under each knob. Two of those chrome knobs screw on/off and hold the chrome wheel cover in place against the steel rim behind. The two knobs that do this are 180 degrees apart across from each other. Our motorhome (Winnebago Itasca) came with a neat little wrench specially made to fit these two knobs for screwing them on/off. Your rig may have one of these special knob removal wrenches tucked away somewhere in one of it's storage bays. Ours came in a snap bracket that stores it neatly on a sidewall of the rear exterior storage bay.

BE AWARE that those knobs screw onto about the final 1/4 inch of a wheel lug and because of this the knob's threads can easily be cross-threaded and ruined. If you ruin one chrome knob on a trip, you have to not use the big chrome wheel cover, as you shouldn't rely on just one chrome knob to hold a chrome cover in place. It's hard to find a storage place for the large awkward one chrome wheel cover that you have to keep off the wheel for the remainder of the trip. I have had to buy more of the chrome retainer knobs and we now carry along a spare chrome knob.

It's too late now, but the jack you bought does not look like the two stage type that j-d shows above. That 12 ton double ram hydraulic bottle jack lifts extra high, while at the same time fully retracts real low - offering more flexibility to meet a large variety of jacking situations. We have carried one like it for years in our motorhome just in case ... as you never know what type of surface you might need to be placing the jack on or what jacking point on the frame you may need to use. We bring along many pieces of wood and blocks to provide a broader base for the jack on soft or irregular surfaces, as we sometimes travel and camp off-highway and have to be ready for anything.

We also carry along a couple of those pre-charged canisters for inflating truck tires, plus we also carry along a regular commercial truck tire puncture hole plugging kit ... along with a mounted spare inflated to it's full Load Range E pressure of 80 lbs.. To go with all of these items, we always pack along a full power 120V air compressor that can quickly inflate a truck tire ... the built-in generator can power it anywhere anytime.

Expect the best, but prepare for the worst ... I only wish that I could afford a satellite phone for our RV trips!

I already had a Dozen-Ton jack about like you linked. It's an old commercial one, Blackhawk brand. In case you were wondering, a Four Ton "Can" lift a rear corner of a Class C, but it'd take more push on the handle than we can produce on a reach. What I don't know about a single-piston 12-ton, is IF it goes "short" enough to get under the axle under flat-tire-side-of-the-road conditions.

I carry my own old 12T because I didn't know any better. If you're starting out new, and want what's sure to work, return the single piston and get a Two Stage. By the same logic, don't get a single piston "Shorty" that will fit under the axle with a flat, but might not lift high enough to install your spare.

Your simulator pix look like our Dicor sims. I say that because they don't have a separate center piece like the Pacific Dually sims in one of the links above, also because the pattern of the hole for the front valve looks like ours, and the starburst image in the center.

Look at your simulated Lug Nuts carefully. Of eight nuts with six wrench flats each, I think you'll find that two nuts have marks on two sides. If that's the case, remove one of those nuts (front is easier without socket and extension) and get a deep socket in that size. Again, I think 1-1/8".

Desert Captain wrote:
Get to Harbor Freight. The tool you seek has a flat screw driver style blade offset with a rubber mallet attached. The blade splits/peels the wheel cover off and the rubber mallet pounds it back in place. You do not need a 12 ton bottle Jack as you are only lifting one quarter at a time, a 6 or 8 ton will be more than enough but get a a jackstand. Never trust your life to any jack. A large "X" style lug wrench along with a short length of pipe to slide over it for additional leverage will get those lugs off.

A small compressor/jumpstart unit is also good to have. Don't forget a tire repair kit as well. Make sure you have a proper spare and can get to it easily. As noted you can get the tools cheap at HF and hopefully will never need them... I've used mine several times...

:C

X2
One of the best investments I've made is to get the security bits and funky security tool sets from Harbor Freight. I've used them more times than I can count.

Everyone in here is so awesome and helpful. THANKS!!! Here are pics of my hubcaps, I'm not seeing dimples. So I'm assuming they are true hubcaps. I have picked up a Jack like the ones you have pictured, but I went with this ONE

Thanks again everyone

THIS is the Jack you Need!

and HERE is the URL for it. It's nearly twice the price of the very cheapest 12T jacks because it's Two Stage. That means you can fit it under the axle when the tire is FLAT and still get enough Lift to install an inflated tire.
Lug nut size is only 7/8" and Torque is 140-ft-lb. A Socket and Breaker Bar in 1/2" drive "will" work but 3/4" drive is of course better. You need an Extension, probably 6", to get to the rear wheel nuts. I have a 1/2" electric impact wrench and enough extension cord to work from the onboard generator, but that's overkill to the point I've always used hand tools on the wheel nuts. I've heard that garden variety (they're even Green!) RYOBI One+ Impact (it's 1/2" drive) will handle the Ford lug nuts. A "Cross" (aka Four Way) Lug Wrench works just fine, IF it's the "Truck" one. Amazon has bunches of them, just look for 7/8" as probably the smallest hex size, and the arms 22" or so long.
I also carry a small Jack Stand, and some blocks to support Jack and Stand on soft surfaces.
We really need to know about your Wheel Covers, Wheel Simulators, or whatever they are. We have the DICOR brand, and when new, they come with a little socket tool. Look carefully at the simulated "Nuts" on your covers. With DICOR, two of the eight have a little dimple stamped into two of the hex surfaces. That's to hold the steel nut inside, that holds the simulator to two studs on each wheel. I think it's 1-1/8".
A couple tips based on hard luck on my part and others:
1. Use the Black Impact Sockets with any Impact Wrench! Yes, they're stronger, but it's also that if a socket splits, Chrome Slivers are more likely to cut you than Black Chips. Many places including Harbor Fright sell 1/2" drive, deep, impact sockets individually.
2. Custom Valves like these Dually Valves will greatly reduce the chances of having a flat. Rubber Valves, Screw-On Adapters, Braided Extenders, ALL can lead to loss of air. There's another brand beside Dually Valves (also called BORG) and both are good. I have BORG and they're available now at Camping World.

I don't know if Ford changed suppliers, but our simulated hub cabs on the 2008 Model Year E450 were similar to those in the first video posted by IAMICHABOD. They were easy to remove, just needed a firm hand. Although our motorhome did not come with a jack, it did come with a massive lug nut wrench. The wrench had a flat head screw driver like blade on one end that allowed the simulators to be pried off. I just had to work the blade around the edge of the simulator and pry it a little at a time in each location. Eventually it would pop-off.

If you use something small, like a screw driver to pry them off, you can dent them. Make sure you use something with a large blade to distribute the pressure evenly.

-Michael