electrical issue

Wire came off of a push connection on an outlet, bad GFCI, tripped breaker. Take your choice.

dave_330 wrote:
2009 Monaco Knight only have one half my electrical outlets are working. Had an overload last night, checked the GFI outlet that is working fine. Cant find a fuse or breaker that relates to my problem. Any thoughts?

Might need to reset your inverter - often the overloaded circuit is on the inverter and pops that circuit.

Last but not least you could have inadvertently turned off the inverter.

What ever it is let us know how it turns out.

BOL,

I vote for the tripped inverter circuit breaker too. I've done it more than once.

Busskipper wrote:

dave_330 wrote:
2009 Monaco Knight only have one half my electrical outlets are working. Had an overload last night, checked the GFI outlet that is working fine. Cant find a fuse or breaker that relates to my problem. Any thoughts?

Might need to reset your inverter - often the overloaded circuit is on the inverter and pops that circuit.

Last but not least you could have inadvertently turned off the inverter.

What ever it is let us know how it turns out.

BOL,

most definitely a tripped breaker on the inverter assuming its not in the main panel
Inverter on or off has zero bearing on the flow through electricity
so no inverter does not have to be on

Hi,

My first thought is the inverter circuit breaker too. Check your circuit breaker panel. Normally there will be a 30 amp breaker feeding the inverter, and two outputs from the inverter from shore power in the pass through mode. Because they installed #12 wire, normally there will be either a pair of 15 or 20 amp breakers on the output of the inverter. Those breakers are normally mounted to the inverter, and that is located inside one of the basement storage compartments.

Good luck,

Fred.

Assuming you haven't inadvertently bumped the salesman switch, you issue can be traced to one of two items. The inverter breakers have already been discussed but the only thing not mentioned was the breakers might be the push button type which unless you know what to look for are easily missed. Lastly, you might have to begin searching for that elusive hidden GFCI. I think it's a game the guys building these things play with us end users. I had one in the engine compartment. Check the salesman switch, check the inverter breakers and finally start hunting for the hidden GFCI....Dennis

A salesmen 120V switch ?? that only controlls 1/2 the 120V outlets?
what are you smoking dennis?
salesman switches are for the 12V side of things not the 120V
the op has a 120V problem not a 12V one



**only have one half my electrical outlets are working**

When you say you had an overload... does the overload make sense? Does the wattage you had operating amount to sufficient wattage to have an overload.

Often what happens is a main wire gets hot, then becomes loose. You could be pumping wattage into a weak connection, and thus causing the overload.

I like using my laser thermometer to check connections in terminal blocks and connection points. Put everything back on, and see if the thermometer finds any heat source.

Most of you were right, it was the reset on the inverter. thanks for your help

dave_330 wrote:
Most of you were right, it was the reset on the inverter. thanks for your help

really? sure it was not the 12V saleman switch? LOL just kidding, glad it was what I and a couple others told you