I need some knowledgeable information based on experience and not speculation. After much diagnosis including three separate cylinder balance tests, a thorough exam of the running engine with a mechanics stethoscope and finally a laboratory analysis of the engines motor oil I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to replace the Ford 460 V8 engine in my 1994 Holiday Rambler Vacationer. Though I’m a geologist by profession, I have over 50 years of experience doing 95% of my own mechanical work and I’ve replaced engines before in various cars and trucks I’ve owned over the years. However, they all had traditional engine access. After viewing my rig from both the topside and underneath it appears that the best way to replace the engine is to remove the front grill and bumper as well as the radiator and possibly the engines intake manifold to gain more top end clearance, and finally remove the engine through the front of the vehicle using an engine crane (something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-5218?seid=srese1&gclid=CIThldCZ7sQCFQwbaQodbHwA0A ). I expect installation to be the reverse of removal. Front of my Holiday RamblerPhoto showing how the grill partially wraps around the front and can be removed.If anyone has any experience replacing the engine on a 1992 to 1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer I’d appreciate their insight into the job.Thanks in advance for your help in this project.Steve

I would verify the arm length. My engine sits quite aways back behind the hood. If you are pulling engine and transmission at same time with arm extended it may be too heavy. Summit Racing

enblethen wrote:I would verify the arm length. My engine sits quite aways back behind the hood. If you are pulling engine and transmission at same time with arm extended it may be too heavy. Summit RacingOddly enough my transmission seems to be okay (knock on wood) it's always shifted well and doesn't leak at all. My plan is to just remove the engine, leaving the transmission and torque converter in the vehicle.You bring up a good point and when I rent the engine crane I'll be certain to measure the distance taking balance/fulcrum points into account.Steve

If you remove the cross brace that the air cleaner box sits on, you should have about 3" of clearance for the engine to come forward. Measured from the bottom of the pan to the top of the valve covers. If you remove the upper manifold, valve covers and rocker arms, you should then have plenty of clearance for the cherry picker (engine crane). I'll be addressing the same issue this fall when I change out my 1995 F53 460.Keep us postedRichard

No direct experience, but a few years back someone posted pics of removing their engine from inside the RV using a cherry picker. IIRC, they placed some plywood on the floor and lifted it up through the doghouse opening and out the door. When we had our previous rig (97 Winne Vectra, 460 CID) I check out the openings and thought if I ever needed to do that job that's the approach I would take. However, your HR may not have the same clearances. Fortunately for me it was never required. Good luck and keep us informed on how you tackle this.Lou05 Travel Supreme Envoy

Although a lot has changed at hr/monaco since the coach was built might be worth an email or call. Might be some old timer around who could give some insight. Not sure if hr was building there own chassis back then but, if for instance it's a spartan or freightliner they to might be able to help.Be a real pisser to get it "Almost" out then get stuck on something. Please keep us updated pics would be greatjw

Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

enblethen
Nomad
Apr 13, 2015
Good Luck! Be careful!
Provide pictures if possible.
Geocritter
Explorer
Apr 13, 2015
First I’d like to thank those who pitched in with information. With all y’alls help all my various questions were answered. Unfortunately, I won’t be starting work on my rig until May. At this time I’m in Houston house/dog sitting for a friend through the month of April while he’s traveling and his HOA won’t allow me to have the RV here. Come May I’m going to change out the oil in my 460 V8 to 20W50 diesel engine oil add some STP and hopefully drive it out to a friend’s place 160 miles away in San Marcos TX. My friend has a country place with a large concrete slab where I can work on my RV.

I’ll try to photo-document the work so that others interested in swapping their engine will have the information.

Steve
Geocritter
Explorer
Apr 13, 2015
RLS7201 wrote:
If the AIR (Air Injection Reactor) is blowing into the exhaust manifolds, you should have the EFI manifolds. Older carb engines had the AIR blowing into the heads.

Richard

Thanks Richard, some good news finally, it looks as if I do have the original EFI exhaust manifolds bolted up to the earlier style replacement heads. BTW I found the old pinched-off head-mounted AIR tubes on the rear of the cylinder heads, further assuring the fact that they are earlier model carb heads.

Steve
RLS7201
Explorer II
Apr 13, 2015
If the AIR (Air Injection Reactor) is blowing into the exhaust manifolds, you should have the EFI manifolds. Older carb engines had the AIR blowing into the heads.

Richard
Geocritter
Explorer
Apr 12, 2015
RLS7201 wrote:
This is the head Ford shipped your chassis with.

Richard

Thanks Richard, I looked over my heads and there's no numbers in that area. However, based on some information I found online the head numbers may be located on the part of the head that's covered by the intake manifold. My only concern is that the guy who installed the carbureted heads also installed exhaust manifolds to match the heads, though I very much doubt it. So far nothings been done by the previous owner that's not some type of half-baked get-it-done-cheap work-around. Based on a few receipts I found, the head work was done in 2010, the nuts and studs attaching the exhaust pipes to the manifolds look like they're 1994 vintage.

Steve
RLS7201
Explorer II
Apr 12, 2015
This is the head Ford shipped your chassis with.

Richard
Geocritter
Explorer
Apr 12, 2015
sailor_lou wrote:
Kinda off topic but.......

Consulting Geologist = Geocritter

Nice, I like it!!

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

Being 6'5" over 200lbs with a sturdy build, big on strength and endurance but totally lacking in any gracefulness and being a geologist to boot I figured Geocritter pretty much summed me up LOL.

Steve
Geocritter
Explorer
Apr 12, 2015
enblethen wrote:
I would be looking at a long block such as this from O'Reilly's.
Ford engine
I have a 7.4 GM and have been snooping for engine replacement for the future.

Thanks for the referral I went over to the nearby O'Reilly's and they said they can order it no problem.

Steve
Geocritter
Explorer
Apr 12, 2015
RLS7201 wrote:
The correct cylinder head part number for your year MH is F3TE. The number is to be found between the two center exhaust ports on the head.
E7TE heads will work but are for 1988-1993 EFI 460s.
F3TE heads have bigger valves and redesigned ports.
NO other part numbers will work correctly with your EFI manifolds.

Richard

I didn't find the cylinder head numbers and suspect I have the earlier cylinder heads used on carbureted engines. The previous person who worked on it used non-standard (for the 1994 engine) intake manifold gaskets (probably for the 93 and earlier FI heads). I had a heck of a time finding the gaskets that were used and ended up finding them on eBay. You are correct though, it's not right and to make it work the bottom of the gasket acts as an extension of the intake manifold (the gasket has a thin metal layer sandwiched in the middle. It'll be nice having an engine for a change with all the correct parts!

Steve
enblethen
Nomad
Apr 12, 2015
I would be looking at a long block such as this from O'Reilly's.
Ford engine
I have a 7.4 GM and have been snooping for engine replacement for the future.

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Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

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