First and Hopefully, Only Complaint

We did a LOT of boondocking in a diesel pusher with HWH jacks.

You need to use blocks to get reasonably close to level so the jacks are pushing straight up and NOT torquing or twisting the frame.

We have HWH jacks on our 31' class c and its great. Always runs 2 Jack's together and never twists the frame. They are not kick downs but a Friend of ours had kick downs and they seemed OK.

Dave

azpete wrote:
memtb, the one jack now working would explain the racking. you are trying to level with three jacks. you need a service manual to check out why its not working. if you email me at pfmaddox@att.net, i will send you one for the kickdown jacks. what year is your coach?
after you determine what is the cause, you can have it repaired at hwh, for a lot less than prices you see on the internet. they only charge for the parts used and some labor.
please feel free to contact me at 1-602-549-3638
paul maddox
i do work for hwh. i do not sell parts or solicit service work on this forum.

No! Only in auto.....works fine in manual! On nice level ground, jacks work fine.....as stabilizers. Just don’t work worth a d@#* as a leveling system in uneven terrain!

In “auto” the right rear jack folds down.....but the ram will not deploy the foot ( will not move). In “manual” the hydraulic ram works fine!

I am encouraged by the trend of this thread. Azpete is the guy you need and he's here. Your problem is mostly if not entirely that one Jack and you may be able to resolve this yourself.
Great news!

memtb, the one jack now working would explain the racking. you are trying to level with three jacks. you need a service manual to check out why its not working. if you email me at pfmaddox@att.net, i will send you one for the kickdown jacks. what year is your coach?
after you determine what is the cause, you can have it repaired at hwh, for a lot less than prices you see on the internet. they only charge for the parts used and some labor.
please feel free to contact me at 1-602-549-3638
paul maddox
i do work for hwh. i do not sell parts or solicit service work on this forum.

The frame-twisting must be significant to affect door closure. I wonder how well the structural seam-work of the house holds up to that.

I had wondered if we should have gotten levelers for our E350 rig, but reading this thread puts me at rest over the decision we made 11 years ago. It's been Lynx blocks for us from the beginning with our rig, and will continue so.

I have auto levelers and still use blocks if not on level surfaces BEFORE trying to use the levelers. Makes a big difference on the stresses the frame must endure as it then makes the unit think its sitting on level ground. Also plan on putting blocks under the jacks to help it get level instead of on the ground.

Thanks to all, so far.....it’s starting to look like bringing “MORE” blocks ( under tires) may be in order! :M

K Charles wrote:
Do you level side to side before front to back ?

Attempt to do whatever necessary to level unit! Seems not to matter, which is first adjusted....front to back or side to side!

Though, I’m open to suggestions! ??

wolfe10 wrote:
If your HWH system is automatic, have you calibrated the HWH level sensor.

Said another way, when you automatically level, ARE you level?

Sensor adjustment is quick and easy and only requires a screwdriver.

Does not work in auto, one rear jack does not move at all ( mother board, or whatever) needs repair. Must send in....and likely ( they said) expensive! Works fine in “manual”! B