How to blow out lines to winterize

[ricelake922]

Hello. I have always paid to winterized my RV but would really like to learn how to do it myself without just pouring antifreeze down the toilet and sinks. I would really like to use air on the lines butl do not have a clue. Can someone please tell me using the KISS principle on how to do this task. I am placing the RV indoors for the winter. Thank you in advance.

[msmith1199]

mrekim wrote:
For those that use air.

If you run your compressor just blowing air out for 5 min doesn't the air smell of oil, even if you have an oil separator.

I think an important issue for using air is getting clean air, but I never see it discussed.

I've never smelled oil from my compressor.

[Bill_Satellite]

No, it does not. If it does you have a separate issue that you need to deal with.

[mrekim]

For those that use air.

If you run your compressor just blowing air out for 5 min doesn't the air smell of oil, even if you have an oil separator.

I think an important issue for using air is getting clean air, but I never see it discussed.

[Bill_Satellite]

While it might be true that manufacturers use anti-freeze to winterize their coaches, that does not equate to being the only way. The OP asked how. This is a logical question and it has been answered with logical responses. That does not mean that the anti-freeze method is bad or wrong, just one method vs. another. I still like the blow out method as I don't like the anti-freeze "stuff" in my water lines. I DO! drink the water in my fresh water tanks (IMHO it's just a waste of money to do anything else and bottled water just adds to our landfill problems). A fresh water holding tank is nothing more than a giant water bottle but, for some inexpiable reason, a small group of RVers won't drink from it. Go figure!

[dougrainer]

dodge guy wrote:
Every RV I've seen at RV shows has RV antifreeze in it. So that is how the manuf tests the system and winterizes it. Believe me if a manuf. could save a few bucks on each unit they sell them they would just blow them out, but yet they don't.

It takes longer to correctly blow them out. So, they just install antifreeze, which saves a lot of time. Doug

[dodge_guy]

Every RV I've seen at RV shows has RV antifreeze in it. So that is how the manuf tests the system and winterizes it. Believe me if a manuf. could save a few bucks on each unit they sell them they would just blow them out, but yet they don't.

[willald]

MagillaGorilla wrote:
Here is my question; If this way is the better way to winterize, why don't the RV places use this method instead of the antifreeze method?

Actually, they do. I know of at least one major, well respected RV manufacturer that when asked about this subject, said that they use the compressor blow out method on units they ship up north, and they say it works just fine.

I also know of an mobile RV service tech that is contracted to winterize several RVs that are parked somewhat permanently up in the mountains. He also, used air.

I have always used air blow out method to winterize. Been doing it that way for years, as long as I can remember. Never had an issue. My thoughts have always been, if its good enough for the ones that build these things, AND for a service professional that works on them every day, its good enough for me.

However, after watching my brother in law have a plumbing leak on one of the toilets in his RV last Spring after he did the blow-out method....I'm starting to re-think that. Made me feel bad that I taught him how to winterize with the air compressor, he followed my suggestion for such, and had a plumbing fitting on the toilet break the next Spring.

I think the key is, you have to do it right, and many people do not. With the blow-out method, there is not as much room for error. You have to get all the water out, and that takes a little more time with the air method than it does with antifreeze. The big advantage, though, is that you keep that nasty pink stuff completely out of your fresh water lines, so 'de-winterizing' is pretty much non existant.

Not sure if I'm going to continue using the air method or not...

[Effy]

et2 wrote:


My question is how does the red pop or air pressure feed back through the line coming from the water tank. I never have seen red pop feed back to the water tank. One would think water accumulates their. Unless the low point drain empties that line, which then would explain it.

.

To do the line from the water tank to the pump, I've put a half gallon in the gravity fill line into the fw tank and run the pump a second to pull it from the FW tank to the pump.

[Empty_Nest__Soo]

et2 wrote:

. . .
My question is how does the red pop or air pressure feed back through the line coming from the water tank. I never have seen red pop feed back to the water tank. One would think water accumulates their. Unless the low point drain empties that line, which then would explain it.
. . .

When I blow the lines, I always run the pump for a minute after draining the tank and giving the lines a first blowout. Then I blow the lines a second time all around. I run the pump dry mainly to clear the pump of water, because I would expect the pump to crack if ice formed inside.

Wayne

[Empty_Nest__Soo]

old guy wrote:
I used the air method once and only once. it didn't get all the water out and I had a busted fitting I had to repair, so now I use air and pink. haven't had a frozen fitting since.

Details, please.

What kind of fitting? Was it on a line you forgot to blow out?

What kind of plumbing did the RV have? Copper? Pex? Other?

Wayne

[Empty_Nest__Soo]

MagillaGorilla wrote:
Here is my question; If this way is the better way to winterize, why don't the RV places use this method instead of the antifreeze method?

Probably because of the extra profit from selling a few gallons of pink anti-freeze.

Wayne

[MagillaGorilla]

Here is my question; If this way is the better way to winterize, why don't the RV places use this method instead of the antifreeze method?

[et2]

Well, I was one that swore the pink stuff was fine ( and it "was") and enough. That was until this spring when hooking up the water. I always have done my RV's with the red pop.

We had a water mixer that was bad and needed replacing which I had the dealer replace this spring. When they hooked up to city water the system wouldn't hold pressure. Yep, a split line by the water heater.

Before anyone says I didn't do it right, I pumped way more than enough red pop into the lines and made sure it was coming through the washer and fridge lines.

But I think it was the city connection as the red pop is pumped by the water pump where I hooked up. So if there was water left, it was from that line and gathered at the low end ( at water heater). Now air pressure would have blown it out of that line most likely as it is hooked up there.

My question is how does the red pop or air pressure feed back through the line coming from the water tank. I never have seen red pop feed back to the water tank. One would think water accumulates their. Unless the low point drain empties that line, which then would explain it.

Anyway, this year the dealer is doing mine as if it fails in the winter its on their dime to repair in the spring. The mildew smell after the water got inside the closet area has been difficult to get rid of.

I don't think one is better than the other ( except the air method clears the water line from the outside connection), you just have to make sure everything gets a air blast or red pop. If I had a way to pump red pop into the city connection it wouldn't have happened.

[mike_brez]

Effy wrote:

gbopp wrote:

Effy wrote:
Not sure I understand the issue with antifreeze.

I don't think there is a an issue with antifreeze. Just a personal choice.
Many probably don't like the aftertaste of the antifreeze. Even flushing the lines can leave a taste. It may absorb into the plastic pipe. I don't know.
I tried both methods, I like air the best. Just my choice.

I guess it matters if you drink the water. I use bottled water so it's not an issue for me.

X2

[Effy]

So, Air will work, but it takes more effort and includes more risk if not all the air is purged. Antifreeze works without risk and is easier to do. Only one person noted a single reason not to use antifreeze and that was taste of the water. If you flushed the system properly I don't see how this is an issue. And using just air will leave some water in the lines. And water sitting all winter will cause bacteria and other things and your lines will need treated anyway. So I am still not convinced air is a better method. And you have to have a compressor that has an oil and water separator on it. Also for the folks using air it sounds like you are still using antifreeze anyway to put in the traps. Sorry I just don't get it. To each his own I guess.