Inverter/converter vs stand-alone units: lots of questions

theoldwizard1 wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
Ok there are advantages and disadvantages to both methods.

If you have a top notch converter, then it is hard to justify a combination inverter/charger/transfer switch. It is easy, if you are shopping for a new converter. The wiring is SO MUCH SIMPLER !

The larger Samlex units (>2000w) have a separate generator input and a relay you can use to do a remote start on the generator.

I agree with you the reason I have BOTH is that the CONVERTER (Progressive Dynamic 9180+wizard) was the Factory installed device.

When they put the Proasine in they just unpluged the 9180.. Since I like the program in the wizard better I plugged it back in.

Advantage 2 of having both.
Both have had to be replaced after many years of service so if one fail the other still works (Bulit in back up, kind of like the Emergency Start/Boost/Aux Start button on the dash)

And for me there is a 2nd advantage as well but that's only occasionally. my ID-5100 draws enough power on 70cm Transmit that the line loss shuts it down with the OEM converter as far from the batteries as you can get (ID-5100 is fed off batteries direct via 10GA wire) but the Freedom invrverter being just a few 00 ga feet away keeps it up. On MED or LOW power no such issue.

Fastfreddy14 wrote:
I’m thinking I’ll get two good standalone units based on the information you guys gave me. A PD92xx and probably a small 1000w inverter. This also allows me to shut off the inverter when I don’t need it and not shut off the converter..

The inverter isn't going to be working in an IC when it has shore power. IC's have switches to turn off anything. With separate components you'll have to do your own transfer switch.

Failures happen, no matter what you install. Serious Rving includes having plan Bs for that, like carrying a spare car battery charger. As for inverter failures, perhaps you have a generator. Or, you can carry a small cheap inverter until a suitable replacement is found.

I’m thinking I’ll get two good standalone units based on the information you guys gave me. A PD92xx and probably a small 1000w inverter. This also allows me to shut off the inverter when I don’t need it and not shut off the converter. Thanks everyone.

Another point is that an inverter charger may almost certainly be a lot more costly than a stand alone unit with a good quality converter.

The other issue is that if you rely on only the inverter charger and it fails on a trip--the trip may have to end.

If cost is no issue, then look for a hybrid inverter/charger from Victron or Outback. Hybrid = load support which is quite useful. Even on a 30 amp pedestal I can use over 30 amps with the excess power coming from the battery bank.

Fastfreddy14 wrote:
Do most inverter/chargers include a transfer switch?
Is it better to get two standalone units or should I get an inverter/charger to replace both?

Yes. I've had both. It doesn't really matter, but IC's generally come with very robust chargers, better than stand alone.

Existing 300 watts should easily run your tv, dvd, satellite and charge small items. I do recommend sine wave as some items such as Apple seem to require sine wave. Power brick tends to run cooler in my experience and reduced chance of tv signal interference.

I prefer separate components for easier replacement when something fails.

You can add a small $50 transfer switch to wire the existing inverter to a branch circuit. Two switches would get you two circuits.

Then just replace your 7400 with a PD9260-14.8 and you are golden.

Really need 4x GC2 connected with 4/0 wire if you jump to a 2000w inverter/charger. And yes they have excellent charging systems.

https://www.donrowe.com/KISAE-TS15A-Automatic-Transfer-Switch

bestconverter.com/PD-9260C-148-60-Amp-RV-ConverterCharger

wa8yxm wrote:
Ok there are advantages and disadvantages to both methods.

If you have a top notch converter, then it is hard to justify a combination inverter/charger/transfer switch. It is easy, if you are shopping for a new converter. The wiring is SO MUCH SIMPLER !

The larger Samlex units (>2000w) have a separate generator input and a relay you can use to do a remote start on the generator.

Ok there are advantages and disadvantages to both methods.. First my setup

Factory installed a PRogressive Dynamics 9180 WITH charge wizard. this is one of the BEST stand alone units made. I really like the program in the wiz. a 9200 would be roughly equal. add the optional dongle and it is equal. Also IOTA with IQ4 I'm told... NOTE the 80 = 80 aps they make smaller ones.

I added originally a Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0 Now a Freedom 2000 True sine wave inverter. So Now you know my qualifications.

THe Freedom 2000 is like 750 on sale should it fry (I hope to get the prosine fixed I like it better) and both it and the prosine are programmable as to battery charge pram's they are very good units for charging MOST true sine inverter/converter devices are programmable and very good.

I use the PD 9180+wizard because I like the wizard's program but it is pre-set for ONE type of battery (you can now get a Wiz for two types but .. the 2nd type is EXPENSIVE)

Replacing the Progressive Dynamics when it failed was 238 dollars and less than 20 minutes labor not counting the 17 mile drive from teh overnight truck stop to the factory (Ok so I know where they make 'em)

Replacing the Prosine was .. Well I already cited teh price and it too a couple hours of language I do not wish to type.

The install is easier if you only have one. but there are advantages to having two.

My Progressive Dynamics intellapower 9180 is a plug in model. has a cord and plug (20 amp) from the factory.. I spend an extended stay where I only had 20 anp power so I pulled the plug and adapted my 12ga extenstion cord and plugged in JUST the converter.> TV and Microwave ran off the Inverter (prosine back then) if I need A/C it was generator time. heat was the furnace. This way for like 2-3 months... NO problems.

Can't do that with a single combined unit.

I've also been on a site where the power was "Strange" I tripped the breaker that feeds 120 to the prosine manually.. Forcing it into "INVERTER" mode and the electronics were proteccted.

The BIG advantage of inverter chargers is when they have a built in transfer switch. These inverter/charger/transfer switch are much simpler to install and use ! You ALWAYS have 120VAC at all outlets (up to the power of the inverter) regardless if you are on shore power or not. Plus, you eliminate your old converter ! Just hook your DC distribution panel directly to your battery bank. One less thing to think about.

Samlex makes several sizes of inverter/charger/transfer switch from 1200W to 4000W. Not cheap, but that is what I would buy !

Most inverter/chargers are 2000 watts and up.

The converter may be part of the power distribution box, or may be close to that box.

Are you able to run all the things you want on the 300 watt inverter and is it pure sine wave?

If so, I would just upgrade the converter.

Another alternative may be to add some solar charging to your RV.