Keeping wheel simulators on

i heard squeaking noise from the front end that had me worried. turned out to be the simulator on the wheel.

tred0956 wrote:
I'm the OP. Thanks for all the input and responses. I decided to go with a bolt on model by Pacific Dualies, ordered them from Amazon. Here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CP2HOU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let us know how they work out for you. I am thinking of doing the same thing.

Great choice. You'll be pleased. I've been to Kamloops and loved watching all the trains roll through that town!

I'm the OP. Thanks for all the input and responses. I decided to go with a bolt on model by Pacific Dualies, ordered them from Amazon. Here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CP2HOU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had THESE on my RV as a backup to keeping the simulators/hubcaps on. I eventually got tired of the clicking and squeaking of the hubcaps so I took them off and they aren't going back on unless I sell it.

I call them Simulators when the Rear Cover is dished IN like the actual wheel in that position. But the above description is good too. Makes the coach look like it has chrome wheels.
Dicor is the common simulator and those use two nuts on each that just catch the last couple threads sticking out of the actual lug nuts. One of our OP's here got a set of Pacific Duallies and really liked them. I think they required bolting a little adapter plate.
We have Dicor Sims and I have a socket for my 1/2" drive to work the nuts. If you need it I can go out later and get you the socket size for the Dicors on Ford wheels. The little gizmo they furnish is not tough enough to get them tight enough to stay put. Nor to get them off if they rust a little. I use NevrSeez on the threads and a tweak with a real wrench.
I'm a fan of custom valve stems, but I would NEVER attach a Valve Extender Hose to a Wheel Cover/Simulator. If that sim wants to break loose, I want it GONE, not flailing away at the coach till it takes the hose and my air away with it.

tred0956 wrote:
I have a class C on a 2007 Chev workhorse chassis, with the 16 in steel rims and duallies on back. On a recent trip I lost both a front and a rear wheel simulator. These are the stainless steel snap in kind. In my search to replace them, I have found that there are also available some bolt on models, where 4 lug nuts need to be removed to take the wheel cover on or off.

Any advice on which is best? The snap on is easy and cheaper but I don't want to keep replacing them. Any tricks to keeping them on?

Also, any advice on where to buy? I have found several on ebay.

Finally, last question: Are these a pretty well a universal fit? Have Chev rims changed much from 2000 to now?

Thanks

The snap in kind will come off unless you have a way to secure them as stated above.
I found that the bolt on kind are a better way to go.

On Ebay there is one seller that has the top of the line Pacific Dually simulators for half the price. I put them on my 2006 Chevy Chassis, they are top of the line, not seconds, and are a quality product. I found out about him here on the net and there are a lot of others that have used him and are very happy with them.

The name of the seller is INFMOTOR If you have any questions just call him, his name is Arlin and he is more than happy to tell you what you need or answer any questions.

HERE is Pacific Duallys price for the same ones.

If you have holes on the simulators that nearly match the holes on the wheels then plastic zip ties can anchor the simulators to the rims.

I'm sort of on same project here is what I've found out about wheel covers.

If I don't watch mine they rotate against my valve extenders. I was looking for the "fix" and called an outfit near Seattle and the regular order guy was on vacation and lady covering for him gave me a number for guy with Phoenix USA Inc (Cookeville TV phone 931 526 6128) that was covering any problems she had with customers while their regular guy was on vacation.

He supposedly was the "expert" with these things. Talked with him for sometime, I ended up ordering http://www.autoamenity.com/images/stawires5.jpg that might solve my problem. But he also ID'd my problem and it is that wheels covers rotating on rim or coming off are a matter or not enough grip metal on metal. Or the little metal teeth things against the metal rim. And said what some in the know do as a short cut strips of foam at four places on rim. Like at 12 o'clock and 6 and 9 and 3 and 3 and about 4 inches long. The type of foam is packing foam that is little bit thicker than couple sheets of paper. If that doesn't work not much help with anything else according to their "expert".

So that is my next step. Also found out the Dicor the same folks that make other RV stuff has a major stake in wheel products for Rv's and might supply more of these than anybody else. Also found out there are a ton of cheap china knockoffs and most not worth the money. http://dicorproducts.com/catalog/wheel-products/

I know my post is not much help with your problem but might help out with your research.

Was also sent this handy guide for mine http://dicorproducts.com/images/shared/uploads/files/Fast_liner_Install%26Replacement.pdf Pretty useless but a couple good things in there.

Are "wheel simulators" the same thing has hub caps? I just lost a rear one on mine, too.