Anyone ever replace their 3157 incandescent rear tail and turn signal lights with LED's? Where did you get them and how do you like them? There are quite a few bulb options out there, so I am a bit confused as to which ones I should buy? The 3157's are dual filament so can I assume the LED replacement has 2 groups as well? (one running/brake and one running/turn). The 3156 is just backup so that can probably stay incandescent.

Under the heading of general info one filament is running right and the other filament is brake/turn.

I've looked into it but...There's just nothing to be gained.The bulbs cost a lot more. Particularly if you are replacing bulbs that still work.Since your engine is running and alternator is making power while you are using these lights, the reduced current draw of the LED's is a non factor.I've replaced nearly all the interior lighting in our rig with LED's, some of it twice (looking for just the right combination) Hope of course is to reduce the load on the batteries when boondocking, stretch the time we can go without running the genny.Exterior and running lights and such, just nothing to be gained there.

JimM68 wrote:I've looked into it but...There's just nothing to be gained.The bulbs cost a lot more. Particularly if you are replacing bulbs that still work.Since your engine is running and alternator is making power while you are using these lights, the reduced current draw of the LED's is a non factor.I've replaced nearly all the interior lighting in our rig with LED's, some of it twice (looking for just the right combination) Hope of course is to reduce the load on the batteries when boondocking, stretch the time we can go without running the genny.Exterior and running lights and such, just nothing to be gained there.I do have one out and was thinking of replacing. I understand there is no advantage to electric use, I was actually thinking of safety. The LEDs react faster and are brighter than the incandecants so I was thinking it would make it more visible. My dolly has LEDs and they are considerably brigher than the filament type. Hence why I guess most new cars and even MH's are coming with LED signal brake and running lights. Brighter = safer and of course last longer.

The LED driving lights on the trailers will give you some serious lights. Most all of the truckers now use LED lights.I would only change mine if I wanted to increase my driving lighting performance.As stated above these will be operated from your vehicle start battery system and not be involved in any high current savings you might want to get from draining your coach batteries.LEDTRAILERLIGHTS and ETRAILER are two places I can think of that has LED LIGHTS for the RV trailers exterior lights.Roy Ken

Effy wrote:JimM68 wrote:I've looked into it but...There's just nothing to be gained.The bulbs cost a lot more. Particularly if you are replacing bulbs that still work.Since your engine is running and alternator is making power while you are using these lights, the reduced current draw of the LED's is a non factor.I've replaced nearly all the interior lighting in our rig with LED's, some of it twice (looking for just the right combination) Hope of course is to reduce the load on the batteries when boondocking, stretch the time we can go without running the genny.Exterior and running lights and such, just nothing to be gained there.I do have one out and was thinking of replacing. I understand there is no advantage to electric use, I was actually thinking of safety. The LEDs react faster and are brighter than the incandecants so I was thinking it would make it more visible. My dolly has LEDs and they are considerably brigher than the filament type. Hence why I guess most new cars and even MH's are coming with LED signal brake and running lights. Brighter = safer and of course last longer.It is hard to find quality LED bulbs that offer a proper wide angle viewing area. Most have a major drop off when viewed from a side angle. Only brighter when viewed straight on. There are some on the market available in the light housing that should be of good quality, The housing and reflector area are properly designed with a specific LED unit. See Bargman Lighting.If you do go with bulbs, make sure you stay with high quality ones that are towered with side leds. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/tail-brake-turn/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,1157,21,195:

LED replacements for incan. tail/turn lights | Good Sam Community

Effy
Explorer II
Jan 16, 2014
96Bounder30E wrote:
Here is a "right at dusk" shot......of just running lights.....much brighter than incandescents!

Looking good. THanks Bounder. I'm sold.
96Bounder30E
Explorer II
Jan 16, 2014
Here is a "right at dusk" shot......of just running lights.....much brighter than incandescents!
Effy
Explorer II
Jan 15, 2014
Excellent. This is what I was looking for. Makes much more sense than just bulbs for the same price. Thanks guys!
96Bounder30E
Explorer II
Jan 15, 2014
Effy wrote:
That's not bad. I calculated what I would pay for the bulbs alone and it was more than that. Are they plug and play from the current ones?

Yep.....just connect wire for wire.......8 screws hold the housing into the body of the coach.......I went with new stainless screws as the originals were rusty........

Also, if you don't already have it.......you will need a roll of Buytl tape.....

A very easy 30 minute job!
wny_pat1
Explorer
Jan 15, 2014
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-lights/led-tail-light-upgrade.htm
Effy
Explorer II
Jan 15, 2014
96Bounder30E wrote:
Depending on what configuration your tail lights are.......one idea is to replace the whole tail light with a LED designed tail light........

I just did this to my Bounder as the original tail light sockets were just worn out......

Can't find a price on the Bargman. What did you pay?
wny_pat1
Explorer
Jan 15, 2014
Bumpyroad wrote:
wny_pat wrote:
2oldman wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
why bother and waste the money?
bumpy
Because they look cool, and some of us have the money.
Truck Lite's warranty - "Truck-Lite extends a Limited Lifetime Warranty to the original purchaser that the Truck-Lite Sealed LED lamp is free from defects in workmanship and/or materials only. Truck-Lite will replace any Sealed LED Lamp to the original consumer/purchaser, if the lamp fails due to defects in workmanship and/or materials only." Other LED do not offer that kind of warranty.

I can not remember EVER having to replace a clearance or other similar light on any of my RVs, and I believe tail/stop lights have had to be replaced quite seldom. but if one wants to invest $$$$ in expensive bulbs/housings to get 20% more mileage, go for it.
bumpy
And I have had to replace many clearance light bulbs, both front and rear, over the years. But I have only owned older rvs, but my experience also includes many tractor trailers, both new and old. The last time I replaced them on my current coach, I replaced all of them with sealed Grote LED units. Have not had to replace any of them in well over a year now.

As to gaining horsepower or mpg, I suppose there is some gain, enought to be measured. You could test by removing your alternator and trying to run it on you cars engine while connected to a dynamometer while it is under draw from all the lights on the motorhome. Remove and replace all the bulbs and replace them with LEDs and see how much less force is required to run the alternator then. Just adding a rear tag axle on a motorhome takes extra horsepower from the engine. In fact, the extra drive axle on a Class 8 tractor takes 25 horsepower from the engine. And that horsepower requires fuel. A alternator which has higher current draw also requires extra horsepower from the engine. When you are only getting 10 mpg to begin with, every extra little thing helps, but is not greatly noticed!
cbr46
Explorer
Jan 15, 2014
I use an 18W 5 LED lamp in it's own housing but have to run back and turn it on manually. Someday I'll mount it outside and run a wire to it . . . . too cold (or wet) now. It's barely enough light for backing up a long driveway at 1 am.

So I bought a pair of 5W LED backup lights from DDR Tuning to supplement the cyclops lamp. The 5W LED has the usual "towers" of smaller LEDs around the long end of the "bulb", then a high power LED with focused lens on the end. The light "gain" comes from the end LED.

When I went to instal it I found the socket was built sideways so the focused hi intensity part would point straight up into the housing, not outside. So much for LED . . . .

I do use LEDs for the coach interior. About 10% of those fixtures are wired backwards. The LEDs won't work in those. The light output is within 10 lumens of their 1156 incandescent counterpart but suck much less power. For boondocking that's huge.

My daughter tried the LEDs in her camper but they "flicker" driving her crazy. Not sure why but it's not local so I can't look at it.

The 1156 LEDs were ~$36 for 10 from Amazon. The 18W cyclops lamp was ~$50 from Northern Tool. The 5W 1156 LEDs were ~$10 ea from DDR Tuning.

Best,
- bob
Effy
Explorer II
Jan 15, 2014
Think I am sticking to just tail lights for now. Again nothing to do with MPG as others may have mentioned off on a tangent. It's more about safety and visibility. If I am going to replace a bulb why not replace it with something better? The few extra dollars is well worth it to me in my opinion and I wouldn't consider it a waste of money.
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Jan 15, 2014
Many of the RV have had problems with leaking clearance lights and water damage in the front and rear caps. Going to a SEALED LED light can eliminate that problem. Since the bulbs are sealed, the entire fixture can be set in sealant with no worry about water leaking in through the lens and into the coach.
Look for light fixtures that provide plenty of brightness(the more LED's the better) which are not necessarily the least expensive.