FIXED!!! I think! Thanks for the help.
I found a post or another site that made me believe the clicking was air in the fuel line so I held the prime button on until the clicking stopped. It started! Clicked again a few times but didn't die. I think that fixed it. I don't want to run it very long since we are at a campground but will test again on the way home.
Here's a cut and paste of the post I read it might help someone else:
The shutdown with Code 36 is Engine Stopped Without Command From Controller.
It is most often a fuel related issue - either a pump or carburetor.
The first thing you need to do is to test the pump itself.
To do the test, remove the fuel line from the carburetor. It will be necessary to cut the crimp-type hose clamp.
Place the fuel line in and empty container.
Press and hold the 'STOP/PRIME' button for about 10 seconds.
When you first press the button, there will be a 3 second delay before the fuel pump activates.
When the fuel pump does activate, it should make a faint 'humming' sound. It should not make a loud 'clacking' sound. A loud 'clacking' sound indicates that there is air in the pump, and can indicate either a faulty pump, or no/not enough fuel getting to the pump.
There should be an immediate strong, steady flow of fuel in a pulsing flow.
If there is no fuel flow, or if the flow seems very weak and thready, locate the fuel supply line.
The supply line is attached to the left side of the set, about midway between front and back.
If you look down the left side of the set, you will see a large black ground cable, then a gray conduit (this conduit is the AC output wires), and then the fuel line.
The fuel line attaches to the fuel filter, and the fuel filter is screwed directly into the pump, which is located inside the set, all the way to the left.
Remove the supply line from the filter, and attach a length of fuel hose to the filter.
Place the end of the hose into a gas can.
Now press and hold the 'STOP/PRIME' button again, for about 10 seconds.
If you still do not get sufficient fuel flow, the pump is bad and needs to be replaced.
If you now get good fuel flow, but did not on the first test, either your coach is low on gas (there must be at least 1/4 tank for the set to run), or the fuel lines between the tank and genset are bad.
If the pump is working, then the problem is most likely a dirty carburetor.
As gas gets old, it turns to varnish and clogs up the passageways inside the carburetor, not allowing enough gas to get to the engine.
This condition is cumulative. Every time gas sits, the varnish builds up just a little more, like coats of paint, until eventually gas can not flow. It will not happen overnight, but the symptoms can show up all of a sudden, even while simply stopping to refill with gas.
The use of fuel additives, such as Sta-Bil or Sea Foam will not stop this process from happening. They will greatly slow it down, but the gas will still go bad.
When this happens, either the engine simply will not start, or it will not run without the choke on (this reduces the amount of air getting pulled into the engine, changing the fuel/air mixture), or it will run but surges.
Another issue that varnish in the carb can cause is that the varnish may not allow the float needle to seal properly against the seat, causing the flow of gas to not shut off when the bowl is full. The result will be gas overflowing the carb and running into the cylinder, and possibly out the air intake. If the gas gets into the cylinder, it will seep past the rings and down into the crankcase. This will be evidenced by your oil level being over-full and/or the oil smelling like gas.
If this is the case, you will need to change the oil and filter, if it has a filter.
The only 2 solutions are to either replace the carburetor or give it a good, thorough cleaning.
When removing the carb, make sure to take a good picture, or make a good drawing of where all springs and linkages are attached. This will make reassembly much easier.
Most people believe that cleaning a carb involves removing the bowl and wiping it out, then spraying some carb cleaner through it.
This is simply insufficient.
To properly clean the carb, you must remove it, disassemble it (making sure to remove all non-metal parts), and soak it in a commercial solvent for several hours. Soaking it overnight is even better.
Then clean all solvent off with a spray type carb cleaner, making sure to get lots of cleaner into every hole and passage there is. Pay special attention to the tiny holes in the bore of the carb, under the throttle plate for the carbs that have these holes. Use lots of cleaner. And make sure to wear safety goggles to avoid getting the over spray into your eyes. There will be over spray.
Dry the carb with low pressure compressed air.
This is an EPA compliant carburetor, and as such, is not supposed to be taken apart or adjusted.
When you have an issue with it, you are supposed to replace the entire carb.
But, sometimes it is possible to clean them. Just remember, that as an EPA compliant carb, there are no parts available for it, so if you lose or break anything, you will definitely need to get a new one.
Occasionally, even a good cleaning is not going to be sufficient, and you may end up having to replace the carb anyhow. Be prepared for this.
