I recently bought a 2009 Bounder 35H, it has 50A service via an Intellitec Smart EMS, model 900.I had my electrician (licensed, bonded, experienced, has been doing work for my family for many years and has never messed anything up) add a 50A-240V circuit for shore power, and the voltages test correctly at the socket, as described in this thread.Measured voltage is 235V across the outside pair, and 118 on each of the 120V pairs.However, the panel only reports 30A service, among the choices of Gen Set, 50A, 30A, 20A.I measured voltage at the RV end of the power cable, and am seeing a lot of voltage loss. Measured voltage at the RV end of the cable is 185 across the outside pair, and 88V on the 120V legs. I'm losing 60V on the 240 and (consistently), 30V on each of the 120V legs, over a 25 foot cable.Is this just a bad power cable, or do I need to look for some other issue? When I got the RV, there was a gap of about 1/2 inch between the end of the outer cable jacket and the male plug, so I had my electrician replace that plug at the same time he installed my 50A circuit, but perhaps some evil lurks in the heart of that cable anyway?Thanks!

Well in my panel I have a dual 50A breaker in there. Each leg is wired to the side leads on the plug. There is also a neutral and ground. When you measure across the 2 you get 240. Every park I've been in is also the same way. If you measure from each "HOT" to neutral or ground you get the 120. It is not wired wrong. Don't know about the drop. Ide tighten all connections in the panel and transfer switch if equipped and make sure they are tight. With the power unplugged of course.

Steve has it exactly right, as does most of the thread you linked to. Try this: With the plug pulled just far enough out of the socket to reach the blades with your meter probes, CAREFULLY measure the voltages at the outlet to see if they differ from what you read with the plug removed. If the voltages read low about the same as at the other end of the cable, that could indicate the problem is between the socket and the panel, and only showing up with a load. If not, I'd start with checking the connections inside the new plug.

From all indications your input voltage is wired correctly. That leaves the EMS with the problem. Here is a link to a manual for the Intelitec 800 system that I have. Maybe your 900 system is similar or you can find a manual online. In the troubleshooting section there are things to check if the 50 amp service is not displayed. 800 EMS

I'd follow the advice Dutch gave. You've got to have a bad connection somewhere, could be the new work, could be in the cord, could be in the RV. (Unless you were measuring the end of the cord with it NOT connected to the RV.)You can't have voltage drop without load. Turning off the main breaker or disconnecting the RV from the cord should eliminate the drop. My guess would be the cord is bad since you said the insulation had been bad. It could be full of water.

I think the only problem you have is on your display of incoming power is that its set to 30amps for power share,press the power share button to select 50 amps,power share as explained to me is if you are say plugged into only 20 amps then select 20 amp on display and your inverter will kick in to assist with additional load,It does work because at home I'm only on 20 amp and can still run one a.c.and electric water heater ,tv etc.

Only getting 30A indicated on 50A connection | Good Sam Community

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Jan 10, 2016
My 04 Endeavor MH had a detachable 50A cord. The plugs were inside a storage locker used to store the cord. I don't know why Monaco choose this more expensive approach.
Alan_Hepburn
Explorer
Jan 10, 2016
Our 2007 Bounder 35E has a detachable cord...
Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Jan 09, 2016
My uncles Damon has a Marinco style plug in shore power plug.
Rick_Jay
Explorer II
Jan 09, 2016
Ed,

Our 2005 GBM is 50 Amp and has a factory detachable shore power cord. Never thought of it as an issue and have seen other A's with a similar connection.

~Rick
dougrainer
Nomad
Jan 09, 2016
Ed_Gee wrote:
wolfe10 wrote:
Ed_Gee wrote:
enblethen wrote:
Many rigs have detachable shore power cords.
Detachable power cord

Yes, 5th wheels do. The original poster has a Class A motor home. Those do NOT have detachable power cables.

Actually, some motorhomes DO have detachable shore power cords.

I am curious what class A motor home has a factory detachable power cord. I have never seen one - and I have seen thousands. Then again, I'm not referring to decades old motor homes, either.

Ed, What is your expertise that you can state this? Thousands????? What do you do that you can state that? On the other hand, I have 36 years as a RV Tech(primarily Motorhomes), and while it is not common, there are a lot of Motorhomes(Class A/Class C) that DO have detachable Power cords both 30 and 50 amp. Doug
hohenwald48
Explorer
Jan 09, 2016
Deleted
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Jan 03, 2016
enblethen wrote:
I would check your power readings either in the coach with all breakers turned off, or at the rig end of shore power cable.
Sure sounds like a neutral problem.
X2

I believe he suggested that it might be a cockpit problem. But definitely worth checking again with no load and then with a load. I'd turn all electronic related CBs off and just use resistive loads like ceramic heaters.
enblethen
Nomad
Jan 03, 2016
I would check your power readings either in the coach with all breakers turned off, or at the rig end of shore power cable.
Sure sounds like a neutral problem.
CatchinBluegill
Explorer
Jan 03, 2016
enblethen wrote:
J6 is the power to the shedding relays, in and out.
J3 appears to be the current sensor.
On the attached electrical drawing I do not see any connection to the circuit board(EMS)

Hey, thanks for that link! I found a hard copy of the 900 manual, but really like to have everything in soft copy. Cool! :-)

If you're talking about the picture on P. 15, I don't see an explicit link either, but observed data and the description in the last paragraph on P. 14 both seem to suggest that there is one.

On the other hand, I just went out and tested the theory that a CB on the Line 2 side should also cause it drop back into 30A mode (as CA Traveler also suggested it should), and to my surprise, even with all Line 2 CBs off, it still showed 30A mode.

With all CBs off except the 20A for the Washer/Dryer, it continued to show 50A mode. Turning that one off causes a switch to 30A mode.

I'll also ask Fleetwood about it, FWIW.
enblethen
Nomad
Jan 03, 2016
Yes, it is the branch breaker for the items that could be shedded.
Drawing shows a "jumper between the branch breaker and the relay contacts.
Since the OP has got the system working, I would only suggest that he checks the voltages as he did originally with the power cord disconnected and check the rig end to verify that the readings are goo.
I am not suggesting he go in and change anything. (as long as it continues to work)