Refrigerator is not switching to Propane

Problem with the refrigerator not switching to propane is solved thanks to DrewE of Vermont. His response on 8/27 reminded me to look at the battery shut off switch. Sure enough, it was OFF. Amazing, as soon as I switched it to ON, everything worked correctly, again. I was looking for something a lot more complicated than flipping an obvious switch that was always right in front of me. I appreciate all the suggestions and responses. I knew that someone in the RV.net world would come to my aide. Thanks DrewE, your assistance was the kick in the brain that was needed.

RVROSE wrote:
Original poster again,
I followed the seven steps suggested by ItsyRV. I think the problem is, I don't have any 12v service in the RV. Looked at the battery and the cells are full. (Since it is plugged into 50 amp receptacle I check the fluid level in them quite often and top off when necessary.).

To get back to the refrigerator problem, following ItsyRV steps, the auto light went out when I unplugged. House lights also don't function as does the water pump. I don't see any evidence of the 12v circuit working anywhere in the rig. Now what?

Got DC when on SHore AC Power otherwise you would not have the AUTO Light

Then you loose DC when you unplug shore power.
Battery should be supplying DC System when NO AC available
EIther you have the battery disconnect turned OFF (salesman switch), the battery POS cable in-line fuse (DC Circuit breaker) is BAD or battery is shot

I finally got to check and it says AC/AU/PR. I set it on AU and it flashed AC-AU so I unhooked the AC and it switched to AU-PR. I left it alone and it in fact ran 24 hours on propane. Hooked the AC back up and it changed to AU-AC and is now working on AC. Sorry I hijacked someone elses thread and thanks to those who helped me.

What is the voltage at the battery? Just because the cells have electrolyte doesn't mean they're good or charged.

Anyhow, assuming the battery is at all responsive, the problem would seem to need to be an open connection between the battery and the DC distribution panel. When plugged in to shore power, the converter is supplying 12V power and the rest of the DC distribution system is working. The first thing to check is the battery shutoff switch (often called the "salseman switch" for reasons that I'm really not entirely clear on). Try cycling it off and on.

If that's not it, you need to track down where the battery connection is lost. It may be a wire that's come loose, or a blown fuse at the battery. Check the ground as well as the +12V connections. Also make sure the battery cables themselves are good; I've seen a couple of battery cables where the outside looked more or less okay, at least at first glance, but the actual conductors had corroded away to nothingness within.

Original poster again,
I followed the seven steps suggested by ItsyRV. I think the problem is, I don't have any 12v service in the RV. Looked at the battery and the cells are full. (Since it is plugged into 50 amp receptacle I check the fluid level in them quite often and top off when necessary.).

To get back to the refrigerator problem, following ItsyRV steps, the auto light went out when I unplugged. House lights also don't function as does the water pump. I don't see any evidence of the 12v circuit working anywhere in the rig. Now what?

Control Panel
On/Off Switch
AC Indicator Lamp
Gas Indicator Lamp
AUTO Indicator Lamp (above Mode Button)
Mode Button to select AUTO or GAS
CHECK Light (if gas fails)
Temp Indicating Lamps (1-5)
Temp Selector Button


Fridge ON
AUTO Lamp ON
AC Indicator Lamp ON (if plugged into AC Power) (Gas Lamp OFF)
Gas Indicator Lamp ON (if NOT plugged into AC Power)(AC Lamp OFF)


Fridge ON
AUTO OFF
AC Lamp OFF (can't manually select AC)
GAS Lamp ON

Ours has AC, AO and LP.
On AO, only, it switches automatically.

Doug this is a new frig put in last year and I just noticed this----I may not have had it on the auto setting--if it has one. I'll check tomorrow. Thanks

Try this.

Turn the refrigerator completely off as if in storage.

Plug the power cord into shore power.

Turn the Refrigerator "ON" and set the switch to "Auto" mode.

The refrigerator should now be running on AC.

Now without touching any switches, turn off the shore power to the RV.

Did the AC light go out?

If so, wait a minute or so and look at the panel again, did the "gas" light come on?

The way you're describing it is somewhat confusing so just go through the listed steps and let us know what happens.

Turn it to GAS and go outside and listen to the bottom of the fridge vent. It should click a few times and you should hear the burner light. If this does not happen, the CHECK light should be on. If that happens, you need to diagnose the issue with the burner. Two common things that happen to the burner.

1. Rust falls out of the vent stack onto the burner and clogs it.
2. Spiders build a nest in the burner tube.