Fuse box problems

[Danasdaddy2002]

Well guys I was getting the RV ready for tomorrow. It would have been our 1st time camping and it looks like it will be cancelled.

Went to power on the Fridge and it wouldn't. So I looked in the panel and seen this


No big deal right! I pulled the power from the house and disconnected the battery and replace the fuse. As soon and power was restored the new fuse blew. I tried 4 in total in frustration with no solution.
I called tech support and the guy had no help. He said to take it to a dealership which I will as soon as I can get an appointment. But until then I am willing to try any recommendation.
Everything worked last night. Today the fridge, and the thermostat the controls both the AC and Furnace won't display.
The box has the manafactories label WFCO T-30
Thanks a lot.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I sure don't see that as a flame.

[wny_pat1]

Sprig wrote:

Danasdaddy2002 wrote:
Well guys...
I called tech support and the guy had no help. He said to take it to a dealership which I will as soon as I can get an appointment. But until then I am willing to try any recommendation...

You need to call Onaquest to get the proper phone call tech support.

Thats called flaming. Flaming is strictly forbidden by forum rules. Professional conduct and respectful behavior towards other members and moderators is a primary requirement for participation on the Open Roads Forum.

[homedad]

If all was well before and this is the first time since storage, I think I would be looking for chewed wires. I've found that electrical problems are 1. ground problems and 2. human or animal damage such as driving a screw through something, pinching a wire somewhere, leaving something loose, or squirrels and mice nesting.

[wa8yxm]

Fuses tend to be 12 volt. the plug and outlet in the outside fridge compartment are 120 volt and protected by a breaker... The label in the fuse box says the largest fuse in the box should be 30 amps but I see 2 40's.. I'm not sure what the blown fuse is for since I do not know it's number and can't see the entire label.

Your symptoms suggest a short in the wire to the fridge, on the fridge control board or in the fridge... IF the fuse to the fridge is larger than 20 or 30 amps it suggests the fridge is a triple power (AC/DC/Propane) and switch it OFF DC, Use only propane or AC, see if that "fixes" it, The 12 volt heat element is my #1 suspect on a 3-way fridge. Control board #2 and #1 on a 2 way.

Or fans and the interior light.

[Sprig]

Danasdaddy2002 wrote:
Well guys...
I called tech support and the guy had no help. He said to take it to a dealership which I will as soon as I can get an appointment. But until then I am willing to try any recommendation...

You need to call Onaquest to get the proper phone call tech support.

[Danasdaddy2002]

So I found a place 90 minutes out of town that could see me today. Got out there 11:30. They called me 4:30 saying everything is good to go. I got there and the guy said he rewired the fridge to the converter and replaced the fuse and everything will be fine from now on. They did it at a fair price also, $102 for the labour and threw in the fuse for free lol.
So I paid and hooked up and something told me to have a look before I leave. The fridge did indeed work.
So I went to test the thermostat and I was shocked to see the display wasn't on. Pushed the buttons.... Nothing. I went back inside and told them they did a great job on the fridge but the furnace and Air Conditioner still won't activate because the thermostat won't turn on.
After apologizing several times she said to leave the camper behind and they will work on it Monday morning because the mechanics don't work weekends.
So my 1st camping weekend won't be happening just yet I guess.
What do ya do right.
Thanks for all the replies. I'll update on the situation when I get the news.

[Danasdaddy2002]

N3YMY wrote:

Danasdaddy2002 wrote:
The box has the manafactories label WFCO T-30

Odd.

The T-30 is their 30a automatic transfer switch.

(I would have expected something like 8955ANC for your part number)

Do you have a generator, generator prep, or an inverter?

Hey. Sorry. The outside panel said WFCO. I got the T-30 from one of the many manuals that came with the RV. The manual was for a WFCO T-30.
The inside said wf- 8955pec

[N3YMY]

Danasdaddy2002 wrote:
The box has the manafactories label WFCO T-30

Odd.

The T-30 is their 30a automatic transfer switch.

(I would have expected something like 8955ANC for your part number)

Do you have a generator, generator prep, or an inverter?

[RoyB]

The multi-power type fridges (120VAC-Propane-12VDC) require 12VDC to operate the Dc control board and some also operate the lamps inside the fridge. This way you can run the fridge off of propane when camping off the power grid.

Check the interior lamps - hopefully one of those has blown causing your short. The 12VDC Fridge control board are also known to blow to cause this same kind of problem.

Another failure might be the on-board converter is acting up and may have put out 19VDC instead of 13.6VDC which may have blown the Fridge DC control board??? Need to check the DC volts level coming out of the converter unit as well. Should normally read 13.6VDC when plugged into shore power.

My first thing I would do is pull out the fridge interior lamps and inspect as well as the socket they are plugged into... A black burned glass indicates the lamp has failed. If the lamp socket has over heated then you will have to remove and replace that with new lamp socket. Those automotive type incandescent bulbs really put off some heat when being used.

Plugging the fridge into a separate extension cord will not power up the trailer fridge fridge if the DC CONTROL board does not have power.

Also unplugging the fridge from its 120VAC receptacle will have nothing to do with the 12VDC Control board.

just my thoughts...

Roy Ken

[woody0331]

Wanted to add to chevor's statement of isolating by unplugging. Make sure you isolate the terminations of the 12volt circuit in the fridge compartment. If you simply unplug the fridge (that sounds like the 120AC plug) you aren't changing anything on the 12V DC circuit. If it blows again, it's probably wires between the panel and where you disconnected in the fridge compartment.

I agree with other posts, don't let this stop you from going. Go old school with a cooler if needed. Make it refrigerator appreciation weekend.

[B_s_Bunch]

Run ext cord to fridge. pack fridge with cold food. Let it cool down if all works go camping and plug fridge in at campground outlet. I really hate it when something like this interrupts camping. Check it out when you get back. Larry Never mind I had forgotten about the 12 volts for board since I had gotten rid of our NOCOLD unit. Have 120 volt only now.

[Danasdaddy2002]

Sounds like a great job. Getting to drive the country. That's nice.

That wire was just a bare piece of copper strand. About a 1/2" long. Just held there by being stuck lol.

[chevor]

I worked for a electrician for 4 year and have seen some weird things others have screwed up they want you to fix. Mindreader is a requirement for that job.
I now drive new camper from factory to dealers. much less headaches.

You probably should keep that short strand of wire. Might have to put it back. Probably powers something.

[Danasdaddy2002]

Well chevron. Sounds like you know you stuff lol. I'll try that 1 st thing in the morning. Hope to find something. Thanks again.

[Danasdaddy2002]

I went out with a flashlight a had a close look at the panel. I was looking for burnt wire or a short. I did not find one but I did find a single stand of copper wire that must have been from the installer trimming wires. It was wedged between terminal for the wire of the positive side of the battery and the number 9 fuse. That fuse controls the awning which is still working.
I did pull the strand of wire and it didn't fix anything but I'm wondering if it could have fried the board.