Awning Pulling Gutter Away from RV -- Best way to ReAttach?

I recently found on a coach we bought in September last year that the same happened on the main slide. I removed the fabric of the awning. Removed the cover strip from the drip strip and awning slot and then cut off all the rivets that had pulled loose. Then used #12x2 SS self tapping screws for reattachment. The whole mess was recaulked and then the material reinstalled. I don't think it will move now.

Good luck on the repair

Grand Design RV's had an issue a year or so back with awnings coming loose from the side the RV's. This is what the service departments and customers were advised to use to fix the issue.

Awning Rivets

There should be minimal pull when retracted vs. when extended and the spring is under more tension. If the two large lag bolts that hold the top awning support showed any rust ...

Thanks. That may be what "should" be, but the fact is that there IS more pull when retracted, and more on one end than the other. I suspect it has something to do with how the awning is mounted or rolled up, or the spring tension setting on the roll, or??? In any event, I'm not going to try unrolling and re-rolling the awning, changing the tension, etc. Once repaired, I just will stop retracting it before an excess of tension is applied on that end.

I live in a dry desert -- I find no rust whatsoever on this RV.

I had about same problem. Called OEM and here is about what they told me...(So this might diff between rv manufactures)

Lift up about 3 feet on vinyl insert and found out somebody got lazy putting in screws. Only 2 screws in last 4 feet of rail. Called back and OEM walked me thru it.

Tighten the screws I have screws, except a couple. Unscrew a couple of them and make sure are the same size. Then go get a box on new ones. Same size and length. Where awning arms make contact is most strain on gutter. Put screw closet to awning arm coming in. Install another 2 inches to left then 2 inches to right. Then more screws 6 inches from those. Largest span between screws should be no more than 8 inches. Mine had "putty tape" under gutter rail. But I didn't pull off entire rail to put on new, as just one spot that was wiggling loose. Then I put proper Dicor for my roof type and color and put over edge where gutter rail meets roof. My screws were "self tapping" and zink or alum cant' remember which. But a box of 50 was not much.

No more problems but I do watch it, seems like a weak point in construction to me. And I never had any problem like that with old manual awning, which tension from different spot. My frame material is square alum tube not wood. That would make a big difference IMO

crcr wrote:

djousma wrote:
I'd try to determine *why* they are pulling away before doing a fix. It is possible that water is getting in there, making the wood behind it go bad. then, as mentioned, if the wood isn't bad, you may need to use bigger screws, or use something to get better bite. Finally, I'd be using silicone or similar both between the gutter and the trailer wall, followed up by a bead of it along the top, after its all in place.

I've determined exactly why it is pulling away -- when you retract the awning fully, it puts a lot of "pull" pressure on the end that has pulled away. So once I have done the repair, I plan to watch that end carefully while reeling the awning in and stop before undue pull is exerted on the gutter.

There should be minimal pull when retracted vs. when extended and the spring is under more tension. If the two large lag bolts that hold the top awning support showed any rust when you removed them then what I suspected in my previous post is probably what you are facing.

djousma wrote:
I'd try to determine *why* they are pulling away before doing a fix. It is possible that water is getting in there, making the wood behind it go bad. then, as mentioned, if the wood isn't bad, you may need to use bigger screws, or use something to get better bite. Finally, I'd be using silicone or similar both between the gutter and the trailer wall, followed up by a bead of it along the top, after its all in place.

Bad wood due to wicking screws would be my bet and unfortunately the fix might not be simple depending on the damage. The area affected is that area I call the triangle of death and HIGHLY PRONE to leaks since it's that area where water can pool on the roof at the corner.

I suspect there will be significant damage in the wood making reattaching the gutter/awning rail very difficult. If you can get at least some "hold" from the screws where the problem is using 3M 5200 adhesive/sealant between the gutter/rail and the trailer side might do the trick, but this is a "PERMANENT REPAIR" and any future attempt at removing the gutter/rail could damage the trailer side.

Larry

fj12ryder wrote:

crcr wrote:
I need recommendations on exactly what type of caulk to squeeze under the gutter before trying to reattach it -- preferably a caulk that is sticky and thus will help hold the gutter in place, as well as sealing it from moisture.

I would not use any silicone caulk anywhere, it's all but impossible to remove if necessary and also impossible to reapply and expect it to re-seal. I'd use non-leveling Dicor caulk.

Thanks, no, not going to use any silicone product. Today I went to a local RV parts supply and bought a tube of Geocel ProFlexRV, Bright White. I have used this product before and was very impressed with it.

djousma wrote:
I'd try to determine *why* they are pulling away before doing a fix. It is possible that water is getting in there, making the wood behind it go bad. then, as mentioned, if the wood isn't bad, you may need to use bigger screws, or use something to get better bite. Finally, I'd be using silicone or similar both between the gutter and the trailer wall, followed up by a bead of it along the top, after its all in place.

I've determined exactly why it is pulling away -- when you retract the awning fully, it puts a lot of "pull" pressure on the end that has pulled away. So once I have done the repair, I plan to watch that end carefully while reeling the awning in and stop before undue pull is exerted on the gutter.

crcr wrote:
I need recommendations on exactly what type of caulk to squeeze under the gutter before trying to reattach it -- preferably a caulk that is sticky and thus will help hold the gutter in place, as well as sealing it from moisture.

I would not use any silicone caulk anywhere, it's all but impossible to remove if necessary and also impossible to reapply and expect it to re-seal. I'd use non-leveling Dicor caulk.

crcr wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
Have you checked behind the gutter where it's pulled away to see if there are screws back there that have pulled loose? Did you have gutter installed? If so perhaps you could take it back to the installers and have the problem rectified.

Also you might check for any water intrusion into that area that has softened any wood that the screws attach to.

Thanks, no haven't yet looked behind the gutter -- not going to be easy to see under there, but I'll give it a try.

No, I didn't have the gutter installed. I bought the TT when it was 3 years old, and I'm almost 100 percent sure that the gutter is factory equipment.

You don't really need to "literally" look, but you could take a thin piece of metal strap and run it behind the gutter and see if you can feel any screws that have pulled out.