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lovervn2's avatar
lovervn2
Explorer
Aug 18, 2014

Need help with my Ready Brake System

I really need some help with this braking system. I am towing a Toyota 4Runner with a Drive Shaft disconnect behind my 34' gas Sightseerer. After a lot of thought and research I finally decided to go with the ReadyBrake. After a few trips with the braking system I realized it most likely it was not activating at all. I took my rig, truck and brake to an installer and advocate of the breaking system. I told him how when I activated the coach brake I would get a very rough jerking motion that felt like the break was not releasing and yanking the truck down the road. The installer made some adjustments that he thought needed to be done (not original installer) that's a whole other story. I drove off excited with the thought the brake would finally work correctly. NOT! I had the same experience all over again! I called the installer I just left and he drove down the road to save me! I drove the MoHo a few feet put on the brakes and the installer could not believe what he saw!. Fast forward, sent the brake back for service as they thought there was something wrong (spring or something) and they fixed it and sent it back. On the day I was to leave I installed brake did a mile or two test drive before we left and all seemed ok. Finished loading up and took off! I didn't even get out of my neighborhood when the whole think happened again!! Called my installer and he thought the brake pedal was not releasing all the way and I could use a bunge cord which he has done in the past. That sounded way to McGyverish to me so I took the whole thing off and left on my trip w/out a break. I need some real help please! Thanks!
  • During testing, I found that my RAV4 stops much more smoothly with my ReadyBrute/ReadyBrake tow bar/brake when the vacuum booster is working, so I added the optional electric vacuum pump. It works fine...
  • ronfisherman wrote:
    I helped my neighbor set up his Ford Edge with a Ready Brake. When setup it would buck the first couple of times. Found that when setting up system to do a tow. He had to press on brake pedal to release/dump brake booster. When this was done brakes worked properly.

    So THAT is why my car bucks the first time I stop while towing it, but not after that first stop! I had finally just accepted that it was going to do that and quit worrying about it.

    I will start pumping the brake after hooking up and turning the car off.
  • I helped my neighbor set up his Ford Edge with a Ready Brake. When setup it would buck the first couple of times. Found that when setting up system to do a tow. He had to press on brake pedal to release/dump brake booster. When this was done brakes worked properly.
    As suggested above install a light that will come on when brake pedal is applied. This will give you a indication what your brakes on truck are doing. I can see this indicator light in car in my rear view camera.
    From your description. It appears that to much braking is being applied to truck. This causes truck to pull away from Ready Brake and release brakes on truck. Then repeat its cycle again.
    You may find that your original setup was working. But needed a little fine adjustment to get correct braking. I have the turnbuckle setup like FIRE UP. Makes fine adjustments much easier.
    I stopped at NSA last April and had them go through my Ready Brute Elite. One of the repairs they made was to the spring and cylinder. This made my system work much smoother.
    One other item that smoothed out brake control was to put a De-Rattler on towbar. This stopped the rattling of hitch in receiver. My neighbor needed 2 on his Ready Brake install. To much slop/looseness in towbar makes the Ready Brake activate erratically. Much the same as you describe.
  • Well Sir,

    I've got a few zillion miles on my Ready Brake system and, for what it's worth, the Ready Brake system, is not a real smooth operation. How can it be? It's a surge brake system and, it's cable operated. Now, I'll probably catch some flack out of this but, that's ok, been there done that. Most of the time, an R/B system is a fairly tight operation, as far as the actuator is concerned. Meaning, it kind of takes pretty good brake pressure from the motor home to cause enough surge to activate the actuator on the R/B.

    Now, again, the term "pretty good pressure" could mean different things, to different folks.

    One of the things that you really need to do, in order to satisfy your curiosity of the toad brakes working or, actually "releasing" after the surge is, to install an indicator light on the dash of your motor home, that would be actually energized by the brake switch on your toad, not the switch on the surge actuator of the R/B.

    That switch, the one that comes on many of the newer R/B actuators, is driven or, switched, by inertia from the surge of the toad, pushing on the tow bar, thus, pushing on that switch. It does in no way, tell you that the brakes are being applied or, released in your toad. You could have a mal-adjusted link cable or, no cable at all and, you'll still get a signal on the LED on your dash, IF, you set it up with that switch in the actuator.

    But, if you set it up from the brake light switch in your toad, you have a 100% assurance that the brakes are being applied and, released. It takes just a bit of time and effort to setup that kind of notification system but, it's well worth the effort.

    Now, what I'd like to know is, what the original problem was with your "jerking" when using it in the first place? You see, inside that R/B are two things. One, a tiny, oh about, 1 1/8" x 2", seriously heavy duty little spring. The second unit in there is, a tiny piston, about the same size in diameter of the spring and, there's about four or so, "O" rings on it. There's also a tiny hole in that piston. As the unit is surged forward, it presses on the spring and, the process is slowed down due to the piston, trying to push a few CCs of oil through that tiny hole and, into another chamber.

    Then, the springs plan is to, push the little piston and, your toad, back to the travel position. Then, the whole process, starts all over again, if and when needed. It's really that simple.

    But, as in my case, the spring is seriously WEAK and, I can actually activate it by hand. That's a no-no in my book and, most likely Ready Brakes too. Sooner or later, I'll do something about it. But, in your case, the first thing I'd do is, get that notification system installed that is activated by the brake switch in your toad. It's the most accurate notification you can do for that Ready Brake system.

    The second thing I might suggest is, set up that "Link cable", the one that attaches between the toad and the actuator, with a "turn buckle" like I did. You can get infinite adjustment that way. No need for tools and all that crap. Just a slight turn, in either direction for ultimate proper adjustment, IN SECONDS!

    Once those things are done, and, if your R/B is working properly, you should be good to go. One more thing, I don't know who did your original install but, the cable housing, the one that's under the hood of your toad, must be VERY STICTLY SECURED at every point that it can, especially at or near bends. If it's not secured, and can flex, it will have tendency to want to "straighten" out, when the brakes are applied and that will not allow proper operation of the entire R/B system and therefore, will not pull on your brake arm, in the toad.

    So, there's some things to think about.
    Scott



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