Gents, First off, I've used the Ready Brake system for quite a few years now and for the most part, have been pretty happy with it. That included many years using it with a gas coach. Well, we changed to a Diesel unit about 3 years ago and, basically have worn out both my present tow bar, a Blue Ox Aladdin 7500 # unit and, also we've worn out the Ready Brake actuator. I can push it with my bare hand and, you're not even supposed to be able to do that. So, I'm quite possibly leaning to a brand new tow bar, possibly the 10,500# Demco unit. The primary reason for that is, we to a 5300#, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500, 4x4 Extended Cab. And, in the back of that truck sits a Rampage motorcycle lift/carrier and, on that lift is an '08 Honda GL1800 Goldwing. Now, the lift hovers around 275-300# and the Wing, right at 900#. So, that 7500# Blue Ox was/is, very close to its limits, 24/7. So, the Demco unit, which if I was thinking clearly at the time, I could have gotten it for right at $650.00 out the door, at the Winnebago/Itasca Grand National Rally, recently held in Forest City Iowa. But, I wasn't ready to buy yet. So, with all that said, I've kind of given some thought to the AirForce 1 braking system. Mainly due to the fact that it's air operated, to make a perfectly proportional brake application, directly from the coaches air brakes. And, it's a small unit that is not seen and, there's no setup each and every time you get ready to tow. TNow, I've not dug into all the details yet. I'm simply THINKING about this major change and, to those components mentioned. To those of you that may have either one, could you please comment on your experiences and thoughts. I'd surely appreciate it. Thanks way in advance.Scott

You can get the Ready Brake rebuilt. Mine got bent in an accident and they rebuilt it for a few hundred. Your should be less. I don't like the idea of tapping into the air system personally.

Since you are in the market for a tow bar AND a brake, get a Ready Brute Elite. It is both in one, and you will still have the Ready Brake you are used to.

Personally, I would get the Blue Ox rebuilt at the factory, and the same for the ReadyBrake.I would not worry about the towbar being "close to" its limit. If the manufacturer says it will tow 7500 lbs. I firmly believe it will do so for any length of time, IF it is properly maintained and not damaged.But, it's YOU, not me, so do what you need to do to feel comfortable, and go camping.

Your Air Force 1 (AF1)/Demco solution is the Best of the Best. Many, including me, have gone many thousands of miles without any supplemental brake system without any problems, but for ultimate safety, a supplemental brake system is required. The Ready Brute (RB) is quite popular and many like it, but there are some important differences between it and the AF1. AF1/Ready Brute1. The Ready Brute is a surge brake. It operates by inertia. That means that the toad must be pushing the MH before the brake will actuate. That means that the RB doesn’t completely remove the toad braking load from the MH brake system – it’s just an aid. Even in panic braking situations, the toad adds load to the MH brake system and the stopping distance will be greater than with the MH alone.2. The AF1 applies the toad brakes in proportion to the amount of braking action applied to the MH brake system. It completely removes the entire load of the toad from the MH brake system. In fact, in panic braking situations, the stopping distance of the MH/toad combination on my rig is less than the MH without the toad connected – that is impossible with the RB.3. The AF1 creates the full vacuum for the toad braking system. The RB does not.4. One advantage of a diesel MH is an exhaust brake that improves the safety of descending mountain grades and such. When descending a long mountain grade, you want to use the brakes as little as possible. Because the AF1 is only actuated when the MH brake petal is depressed, it won’t actuate the toad brakes when using an exhaust brake or changing to a lower gear to help retard the speed.Being a surge brake, the RB may be actuated by either an exhaust brake or downshifting. My exhaust brake will maintain the current speed of the rig while descending a 6% grade – that’s a lot of braking. The RB may become activated in such a condition. If it does, it puts the toad brakes in jeopardy from over heating. If it does not activate the toad brakes in this situation, it indicates that it doesn’t provide very much braking for the toad.5. Once installed, the AF1 never requires any adjustments – install it, hook it up and forget it. The manual cable connections of the RB may require adjustments over time and conditions.6. All supplemental braking systems need an indicator to let you not only know when the toad brake system is activated, but also when it fails to operate. The AF1 brake indicator is actuated when the toad brake pedal activates the toad brake switch. That not only lets you know when the toad brakes are applied, but even more important, lets you know when they don’t operate. I was once alerted to the fact that I didn’t make a good connection between the MH and toad the first time I applied the MH brakes – six feet from the camp site.The indicator system on the standard RB is actuated when the brake lever on the hitch moves forward – it knows nothing about the condition of the toad brake pedal or toad brake system. That indicator will even operate when the RB cables are not connected. In addition, that system will not indicate that you need to adjust the cables.DemcoThe Demco is unique in a couple of ways.1. Each tow bar is independently attached to the receiver. That means that one tow bar can be connected without touching the other. Then the other tow bar can be connected. They can also be separately disconnected and stored before touching the other one. That really makes easier and faster.2. The tow bars can be stored in three different positions – left, right, or split.3. In addition, the customer service from Demco is the best I have ever had. They even sent a factory representative to my location to help me solve a problem that turned out to be “operator error.”After more than 100,000 miles of towing a toad with a MH, I highly recommend the Demco/AF1 solution.Good Luck!Wil

...Some important key pieces 'wca01' left out, in his marketing propaganda post about SMI Air Force 1:The Air Force 1 also will cost you obscenely more $$ than the Readybrake. Since you're purchasing a new towbar as well, and can get the Readybrute Elite tow bar that comes with Readybrake, the cost difference is even more substantial - well over $1000. And thats without even mentioning the huge cost of installing the AF1, that you will not have to worry about with the Readybrake since you already have the RB cable installed on your toad.Yes, air brakes working directly off of your MH's air brake system is nice, but is it worth paying over $1000 (probably closer to $2000 including installation) more for?The Air Force 1 system is an 'electronic box' type controller system. Meaning, it is controlled by electronics. This introduces the risk that said electronics can fail, over-brake your toad, and do major damage to the brakes. It does happen, read around on here you'll see where it has. OTOH, due to its design, this is something that is just about impossible to ever happen with the Readybrake, once its installed and set up properly.When the Air Force 1 system quits in the middle of nowhere and you need to repair it....Wellll, good luck with that. OTOH, 99% of the things that can break or wear out on the Readybrake, can be repaired by almost anyone with parts you can find at any hardware store for less than $20. Also, those mechanical parts on the Readybrake, you can inspect for wear and catch problems and fix them before it becomes a problem. Kinda tough (impossible) to do that with electronic stuff in the Air Force 1.Also, one day several years from now when you trade toad vehicles....Removing the Readybrake cable and installing it on the new toad will be fairly simple. If you don't want to remove it from old toad, no problem, just buy a new cable from Readybrake for $60 and install it on the new toad. When that day comes and you're using AF1, be ready to shell out a LOT more $$ to remove AF1 from your old toad and install it in the new toad.Anyway, this is obviously your decision, but if it were me, I'd go with a ReadyBrute Elite tow bar and Readybrake system. I would also call NSA, speak to Todd about your situation. I'll bet since you own a Readybrake now that is worn, he may well give you a very good deal on a new Readybrute tow bar, or offer to send you a new or rebuilt RB unit you can use with another tow bar. That could make the price difference between the two even MORE substantial, to the point IMO it'd become a no-brainer decision (even though IMO it already is that).

AirForce 1 brake system vs Ready Brake | Good Sam Community

27 Replies

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Aug 21, 2014
FIRE UP wrote:
---Another braking system is the one that fits "inside" or, in between the master cylinder and the power brake unit. I can't remember what it's called right now but, I'll get that one figured out too.---
I think the system to which you refer is the one from M&G Engineering.

We been using an M&G system on our 2004 Explorer for ten years.
Unfortunately, our new Explorer does not have room for the M&G actuator so we'll be installing our second choice which is the Air Force One from SMI Manufacturing.

Ron
wca01
Explorer
Aug 12, 2014
Thanks!
My toad doesn't such a connection. I think most don't.

In any event, care must be taken to make sure that the toad brake indicator light is powered only by the toad brake light switch only. Unless care is taken to isolate the toad brake light switch from the MH brake light switch feed back from the MH brake light switch will power the supplemental brake indicator. This isolation is often done by installing diodes in the proper places on the load side of MH and toad light switch.

Good Luck!
Wil
Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Aug 12, 2014
Look on ehitch or google trailer harness or look on Amazon. Buy one that comes with instructions. Most do. They Also have the adapter built in to convert to 4 wire.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Aug 12, 2014
wca01 wrote:
Big Katuna wrote:

You can buy an trailer adapter that plugs into the factory harness if you don't want to cut wires.

I don't how to do that. How is it installed and wired?

Good Luck!
Wil

It probably isn't the same on every vehicle, but on my Subaru, you open the storage compartment and take out the liner. The connection point is just laying there. You just, plug it in.

When I had a trailer hitch installed, they did that for the 4 pin connector. I tapped into the wires on the trailer hitch bundle. That way, if I ruined anything, I could just buy another one and replace it.
wca01
Explorer
Aug 12, 2014
Big Katuna wrote:

You can buy an trailer adapter that plugs into the factory harness if you don't want to cut wires.

I don't how to do that. How is it installed and wired?

Good Luck!
Wil
FIRE_UP
Explorer
Aug 12, 2014
Wil,
Again, I sincerely appreciate your concern on this issue. I'm not "dead set" on NOT installing a break away. It's just one of those things that has not been on the top of the list. While I (and I'm sure absolutely no one does) don't follow each and every possible news article or, accident review, concerning every motor home towing toad and, did they or, did they not have a "break away" system in use during the time of the accident...across the U.S., I'm sure it does happen from time to time.

For the longest time when towing in our earlier years, we didn't even have ANY braking system for our toads. And that was with a Class C and heavy-a$$ Jeep as a toad. We probably did that for about 10-15 years. And so did all of our other jeeper friends. It was only in the last 10 years or so, that we all decided it was time for some auxiliary braking. So, we looked into many of them out at the time. I chose the Ready Brake.

I set it up on two different jeeps and, a 2011 Honda CRV and, our present toad, a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Extended Cab. I've set them all up the exact same way, with detachable components for the brake arm. I've shown many folks my system and many have adapted theirs to it. It seems that many folks also don't like the cable connected to the brake arm, 24/7.

Anyway, as for the brake light indicator, I also did that several years ago. I did it on our last Jeep, an '04 Jeep Rubicon. Since I'm one of those types that utilizes the stock tail light bulbs for toad lights, I had to develop a plan to oleviate conflicting signals being sent to the tail lights on the Jeep, by both the motor home and, the jeeps own brake light switch.

So, it was very simple to me. All I did was, set up a mini, three way toggle switch in the door jamb of the Jeep. I cut the out-going wire from the brake switch and sent it up to the center post on the toggle. Then, I ran a wire from one side of that toggle switch, all the way to the front of the coach, to an LED I installed on the dash. Now, I also ran a wire from the other post on the toggle, back to where I cut it, near the brake switch.

Now, when the jeep was being towed, I flipped the switch to the forward position and, that lit up the LED on the dash, each and every time the brake pedal was pulled forward by the Ready Brake. Then, when the Jeep was being driven, we flipped it towards the rear which, sent that signal from the jeeps brake light switch, to the jeeps brake lights, just like it's supposed to. That's why I don't like the newer, Ready Brake indicator switch system. It only shows that there's movement in the actuator, due to the inertia force of the Jeep. It shows no actual representation of the brake arm being pulled.

I did it that way because, way before Ready Brake came out with their "signal" system, which is a switch on the actuating lever on the unit itself, I wanted notification that, my brakes in the toad, were ACTUALLY BEING APPLIED. And, because I use the jeeps tail light bulbs, I needed to isolate them from the signal of the brake switch, during towing operations and, the signals being sent from the coaches lighting system.

Believe me, there's ton of gents out there(and even some so called "Techs" at RV repair establishments), that are clueless, even today, about that problem. But, that's a whole 'nother saga/novel.

Anyway, again, I really appreciate your concern. Will I NEVER, install a break away system? That's not what I'm implying here. It's just not been on the top of the list. I'm kind of one of those that trusts the tow bar system and check it, extensively, repeatedly, on an often basis, when we're using it. Does that mean it won't break, nope, not at all. Anything can happen. I have done my own welding, setup, fabrication, alterations etc. for decades and decades and, I trust my work. Do I trust anyone elses? Well.....
Scott
Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Aug 12, 2014
I think your asking for trouble if you don't have a dash light tied to your toad brake.

You can buy an trailer adapter that plugs into the factory harness if you don't want to cut wires.

I have read so many threads about people with malfunctioning aux brake systems that burned toad brakes/tires and am surprised they didn't have a dash light.
willald
Explorer II
Aug 12, 2014
wca01 wrote:
I hope you will reconsider your decision about not having a breakaway system. I consider it to be a requirement for any supplemental MH/toad brake system. While a runaway toad is unlikely to be a hazard to you and yours, it is a serious hazard to others, both on the road and anywhere else near the breakaway. In addition, it gives you some defense if a breakaway causes any legal action from law enforcement or civil suit. The law isn’t entirely clear in every state, but many require a breakaway system for any towed trailer/car, etc. exceeding some weight limit, and any toad most likely exceeds most of those weight limits.

I also hope you will install a brake indicator on your MH dash operated from the toad BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. When connected that way, you get an immediate indication when the supplemental brake system is braking or not braking. That not only warns you about system failure, but about operator error as well. I once failed to hook up the AF1 air hose and got an immediate “no brake action” warning before leaving the campsite.

Hehe, wca01 and I might have 'disagreed' a little bit earlier about which system is the better choice, but I agree 110% with him on all of this.

Especially about wiring a brake light indicator directly off the brake pedal/switch on the toad, not to anything with the supplemental braking system (RB actuator or whatever). Its really nice to know exactly what your toad brakes are doing or not doing, not necessarily what your supplemental brake sytem may THINK is going on.

Will
wca01
Explorer
Aug 12, 2014
Scott,
I hope you will reconsider your decision about not having a breakaway system. I consider it to be a requirement for any supplemental MH/toad brake system. While a runaway toad is unlikely to be a hazard to you and yours, it is a serious hazard to others, both on the road and anywhere else near the breakaway. In addition, it gives you some defense if a breakaway causes any legal action from law enforcement or civil suit. The law isn’t entirely clear in every state, but many require a breakaway system for any towed trailer/car, etc. exceeding some weight limit, and any toad most likely exceeds most of those weight limits.

I also hope you will install a brake indicator on your MH dash operated from the toad BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. When connected that way, you get an immediate indication when the supplemental brake system is braking or not braking. That not only warns you about system failure, but about operator error as well. I once failed to hook up the AF1 air hose and got an immediate “no brake action” warning before leaving the campsite.

Good Luck!
Wil
FIRE_UP
Explorer
Aug 12, 2014
Wil,
I surely appreciate your taking the time to comment and, all that info. I have read all of NSA's literature, several times and know all about what they say and their specs call for. I don't have the Ready Brake "break-a-way" unit/cable installed and, most likely never will. I know about the requirements of it, in most situations too. As for installing and removing the AF1 operations cylinder from the brake arm, like I stated earlier, it's a preference thing.

Neither one of us like even the Ready Brake cable permanently attached which, is why I setup the connect/disconnect for it. So, seeing that cylinder hanging on the brake arm, will be even worse for us in terms of looks. It's no big deal for me to fabricate a nice looking setup or, connect/disconnect system. That kind of work is like a hobby for me.

But, also like stated, I'm not all that ready to spit out what it takes to get both of those units just yet. We'll investigate a bit more first. Thanks again.
Scott