New (maybe) Class A owner and Jeep JK

What make and model of MH are you looking at buying? Gas or diesel?

Bill

We pull our 2015 Wrangler with a Ready Brute Elite. It is a tow bar and surge brake in an easy to connect package. We have driven 40K miles with this set up without a problem. It takes one person less than five minutes to hook or unhook. Two can do it in two minutes.

To connect the tow bar to the Jeep, we installed a custom bumper(Rockhard)instead of adding a base plate. Using the custom bumper instead of the baseplate allows us greater ground clearance, a level towing hook-up, and space for a winch on our jeep.

We also use a Mopar Wiring harness(Part #82211156AB) to have working lights on the jeep.

Our A is a 34' Bounder with a 5K towing capacity. It is a 22K F53 chassis. It has no problem at all pulling the jeep, even on grades as high as 15 percent. The only time we feared not getting up a hill was on the Dalton Highway.

We really like our set up and wouldn't change any component. Good luck with your new adventure!

Trackrig wrote:
What make and model of MH are you looking at buying? Gas or diesel?

Bill

We are looking at a Miramar 35.3 (Gas). It has an 8K hitch.

dahkota wrote:
We pull our 2015 Wrangler with a Ready Brute Elite. It is a tow bar and surge brake in an easy to connect package. We have driven 40K miles with this set up without a problem. It takes one person less than five minutes to hook or unhook. Two can do it in two minutes.

To connect the tow bar to the Jeep, we installed a custom bumper(Rockhard)instead of adding a base plate. Using the custom bumper instead of the baseplate allows us greater ground clearance, a level towing hook-up, and space for a winch on our jeep.

We also use a Mopar Wiring harness(Part #82211156AB) to have working lights on the jeep.

Our A is a 34' Bounder with a 5K towing capacity. It is a 22K F53 chassis. It has no problem at all pulling the jeep, even on grades as high as 15 percent. The only time we feared not getting up a hill was on the Dalton Highway.

We really like our set up and wouldn't change any component. Good luck with your new adventure!

Thank you for the info. I remember seeing something about the Mopar wiring harness when I purchased the Jeep. Where does this install on the Jeep?

MetalGator wrote:

Thank you for the info. I remember seeing something about the Mopar wiring harness when I purchased the Jeep. Where does this install on the Jeep?

In the engine compartment. One end sticks out of the front of the jeep, the other end is routed to under the passenger side dash.

Here is a write up.

We had it installed when the bumper and winch were installed. Not sure if our jeep mechanic did all those steps. In fact, I doubt it, because the install of the harness, winch, and bumper took six hours total.

MetalGator wrote:
We might be pulling the trigger on a new Class A motorhome this weekend. I have a 2015 Jeep wrangler JK that I would like to use as a toad. I currently have a TT so I am totally new to the motorhome thing. I know there are several hitches and supplemental breaking systems available. I currently have a Blue Ox sway pro for pulling my TT and I really like it. So what is the minimum setup I would need to get my Jeep hooked up? Do I need supplemental breaking? Anything else I need to be aware of? If I do purchase the motorhome, I was going to talk to the dealer about getting all the necessary equipment maybe purchased and setup during the negotiations. Is this a good idea or should I purchase the equipment on my own and just pay them for installation? Any suggestions comments would be appreciated.

at minimum you're gonna need

- a baseplate for the wrangler and a matching towbar (they can be purchased as a set)

- a coiled electrical umbilical cord to connect the brake, turn and tail lights (might be included with the towbar and baseplate)

- a set of safety/emergency chains which will ensure that the jeep will remain connected to the MH in the event of a towbar failure (might be included with the towbar and baseplate)

you should also consider a supplemental braking system for the jeep. your MH brakes were likely engineered to stop the motorhome's gross vehicle weight rating and not anything being towed. and some states require an aux braking system for a towed trailer. there is some confusion as to whether a vehicle flat towed behind a MH constitutes a trailer but we personally think that an AUX braking system should be considered a must. there are three basic types:

- permanently mounted on the firewall or under the hood of the jeep. hookup is a snap but you can only tow that vehicle unless you de-install the system.

- if you're going to tow more than one vehicle then consider a temporary aux. brake. these are self-contained units that sit on the floor in front of the driver's seat that are attached to the brake pedal and which may get their power from the vehicles 12-volt system. the downside here is that this device must be removed each time you want to drive the jeep and re-installed each time you want to tow the jeep.

- if you don't want to mess with either of the above consider an integrated towbar/surge brake. if our current aux brake system ever completely fails (parts are available but no new units are being made) or if I had it to over again this is the option we would likely choose. the downside is you're limited to, AFAIK, a single manufacturer.

but...before you sign the dotted line...do you know what your JK weighs with a full tank of gas but otherwise empty? do you know the various weights and weight ratings (GVWR, GAWR, GCWR, empty weight and more) for the MH? do you know the weight rating of the hitch on the MH? you should before you ink the deal.

do yourself a favor and have the dealer or seller get individual axle weights on the empty vehicle. then calculate the effect the added weight of full fuel (8-lbs/gal), fresh water (6-lbs/gal) and LP (4.2-lbs/gal) tanks will have on the affected axle (usually the rear). then compare the results to the gross axle weight rating (GAWR) for each axle. the difference will be the payload or amount of other stuff (food, supplies, clothing, people, pets, etc. you can add to each axle without exceeding the weight rating for that axle. hopefully the payload for the rear will be somewhere approaching 2000-lbs; the payload for the front will likely be less.

once you've done that you're ready to determine if you can actually safely tow your JK. here's how to determine that.

in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

- the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

- the weight rating of your tow bar

- the weight rating of your hitch

Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc.

good luck!

dahkota wrote:

MetalGator wrote:

Thank you for the info. I remember seeing something about the Mopar wiring harness when I purchased the Jeep. Where does this install on the Jeep?

In the engine compartment. One end sticks out of the front of the jeep, the other end is routed to under the passenger side dash.

Here is a write up.

We had it installed when the bumper and winch were installed. Not sure if our jeep mechanic did all those steps. In fact, I doubt it, because the install of the harness, winch, and bumper took six hours total.

Wow, I didn't know that wiring harness was so difficult to install. The write up says he had to take the door and fender off. That seems like a lot of work. Surely there must be an easier way.

I bought a plug and play wiring harness for my 2012 jeep from etrailer. About $79. Routing wires can still be slow to do a good job. I use the Blue Ox tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot braking system and Blue Ox rock guard. Installed everything myself for about $2600. I upgraded the plug on the wiring harness and added a charge line.

The Jeep is easy to outfit. Whatever advice you get it will be the easiest car to work with and tow ... period.

I currently have a Class A DP and pull my 2016 Wrangler 4 door. Blue Ox Tow Bar and Base Plate, M&G Brake System. I am very pleased with both. My last years Jeep was a 2015 2 Door with the Falcon II Tow Bar and Base Plate, along with a SMI Stay and Play Brake System. The SMI Stay and Play did not work well with my DP, as the Brake Light stays on whenever the exhaust brake is on, which also kept my Jeep Brakes on excessively. The M&G works off of my Coach Air Brakes and I love it. Both of these Brake Systems are built in, there is nothing to set up or a box to haul around, etc. You will find that whatever system a poster has, it is the best one... I guess I fall into this category. hahah. JH