my996duc1 wrote:
Anyone have a wiring schematic for using diodes on a Jeep for wiring in the tow lights ?
Knowing which color wires to cut into would make the process alot simpler. I am planning on wiring my '05 LJ with diodes but unsure if I am going wire the diodes inside or underneath near the tail lights.
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my996duc1,
Well Sir, as stated above, I've done it so many times I could probably do it in my sleep but, since I'm getting (already am) old, I can't remember what color the wires are pertaining to each side. Also as stated, the entire wiring loom for all the rear tail lights are ran, just under the door sill, right next to the drives left knee. So, all that's needed is to release that loom from it's captive holders and, open it up, then do a probe (with a 12V test light hooked to a ground, and probe the wires while a turn signal is on for each side. Then do it for the running lights. Done!
Now, you strip a tiny section of the wire for each conductor, left turn, right turn and then running light wire, then "T" onto it and, wrap your incoming wire around the newly stripped section tightly, then a dab of solder to keep that connection secure and tight. Then, wrap it with some good quality tape and that one is done. Then, do it to the other two and then that section is complete.
Now, as for the diode, an inch or two or three, down stream (towards the front of the jeep), each of those turn signal wires will actually need to be cut. Then stripped, then a diode is installed "In line" and the wire is soldered back together and that's done. You don't need to do it to the running light wires. The only effect if you don't do it to the running light wires is, the front parking lights will light up to with your coach signal. Many folks, including myself actually like that because it creates light for tight turning at night or darker conditions between the corner of the coach and the corner of the toad.
It's a very, very simple system and very easy to do. I'm attaching a diagram I drew up of my recent job I did on our '11 Honda CRV. The only reason I'm attaching it is so you can actually see what is done and, diode placement. Don't pay any attention to the fact that the Honda has "amber" turn signals because you, and every other Jeep doesn't. And, there is a converter box in that system that you will not need. It's there to separate the signals from a "two wire" system to a "three wire" system. I'm just showing you how the attaching is done and how it applies to the factory wires. Any questions, let me know.
Scott
mpcarr wrote:
Scott - Thanks for the perspective. I have an electrical engineering background that put food on the table for a number of years and I am a ham radio operator so I'm not afraid to tackle electrical issues. As you pointed out the vehicle braking system would simultaneously power up the brake light when using Ready Brake. Your kill switch idea is a good one and certainly workable but I figure installing separate sockets keep the MH and the toad electrical systems completely isolated keeps things cleaner. I can just simply pull the brake fuse in the Jeep to prevent the Jeep supplied brake lights from overpowering the other lamps I install in the rear light housings. Having said all that, I am still considering diodes. I have a box of them in the ham shack that should work if I decide to use that option. Diodes will also make the center brake light work. Anyway, thanks for the good advice. I'll let it factor into my final decision.
Mike
Roger that Sir. Now, just for grins, and as many of these as I've done and wired, with the exception of our present toad, the 2011 CRV, I'd like to know how you'd set up the third brake light by utilizing a dual filament system. You see, with amber turn signals, you have a dedicated brake light circuit so, tying into that third brake light with the brake light signal wire from the coach would be easy.
But, how would you do it with a "dual filament" system without that third brake light blinking when either of the turn are signals blinking?
I've seen guys in the past add a third brake light when they weren't popular yet and, that third brake light "flashes" when either of the turn signals flash. But, they work when neither of the lights flash and the brakes are applied. I'm sure that with the proper placement of relays and diodes etc. which, is over my head, it would probably work.
Scott
mpcarr,
Well Sir, for some odd reason, folks have tendency to panic when it comes to "tying" into the factory Jeep wiring for lights. I have no idea why. You can't get much simpler. You see, ALL the light wires pass right by the left knee of the driver, just under the door sill. We've towed (7) different Jeep Wranglers all over the U.S. and wired the stock tail light bulbs to work with the RV. We did that for over 25 years of Jeeping and they always worked perfect.
Absolutely NEVER had any issues what so ever. It's very easy. And, you don't have to run the wires from the coach all the way to the back of the Jeep. You simply remove the bulk of wires to a workable space along side the door sill. Then, you find the right turn, the left turn, and the running light wire. You then "T" into them with a clean solder joint and tape, DONE!
But, yes the diodes will have to be used so the signal from the coach does not travel down stream to the steering column and get the electrical system confused. I don't use those fancy Diode kits from the big suppliers like Camping World, E-trailer.com and others. I have used the $3.00 pack of diodes from Radio Shack and they're rated for way higher amp and voltage anyway so, I've always been way over protected.
Once you're done, your lights will work as they're supposed to. Now, as for your third brake light. No, there is no LEGAL requirement for it to be activated when the vehicle is being towed. I set mine up to be activated in my 2011 Honda CRV simply because it was easy to do so. The reason it was easy on the CRV was because that car has "Amber" turn signals which are totally separate from the brake light system. But, on a "two-filament" system, such as a Jeep, the third brake light is a totally separate system from the normal brake lights. So, to activate it with the wiring from the coach, would take intricate wiring.
Anyway, do as you like. There's no need to panic when it comes to tying into the factory wiring. It's wiring, not the plague. Simply strip some insulation, wrap your new signal wire from the coach, solder it, wrap it up with tape nice and tight, DONE. Put all the wires back under the door sill and, that's it. Your choice. Good luck how ever you do it.
Scott
P.S. Yes, if you add an auxiliary braking system like say, the Ready Brake, the Jeep brake lights will be activated when the Jeeps brakes are applied. Now you'll have two conflicting signals going to the tail lights. So, my simple remedy was to cut the brake light signal wire from the brake switch on the Jeep, run it to the door jamb where, I installed a micro-toggle switch, double throw.
On one side of the switch, I ran a wire right back down to the place where I cut it and tied it onto the cut wire. On the other side of the switch, I ran that wire, all the way to the front of the Jeep, the through the Pig tail, and all the way to the dash on on the motor home. Now, When towing the Jeep, I simply flip the switch so the signal from the jeeps brake switch is sent to the dash on the motor home where it lights a tiny LED, telling me the brakes are being applied in the Jeep.
When driving the jeep, we flip the switch so the signal from the Jeeps brake switch travels as normal to the jeeps brake lights.
Scott
Well Sir, for some odd reason, folks have tendency to panic when it comes to "tying" into the factory Jeep wiring for lights. I have no idea why. You can't get much simpler. You see, ALL the light wires pass right by the left knee of the driver, just under the door sill. We've towed (7) different Jeep Wranglers all over the U.S. and wired the stock tail light bulbs to work with the RV. We did that for over 25 years of Jeeping and they always worked perfect.
Absolutely NEVER had any issues what so ever. It's very easy. And, you don't have to run the wires from the coach all the way to the back of the Jeep. You simply remove the bulk of wires to a workable space along side the door sill. Then, you find the right turn, the left turn, and the running light wire. You then "T" into them with a clean solder joint and tape, DONE!
But, yes the diodes will have to be used so the signal from the coach does not travel down stream to the steering column and get the electrical system confused. I don't use those fancy Diode kits from the big suppliers like Camping World, E-trailer.com and others. I have used the $3.00 pack of diodes from Radio Shack and they're rated for way higher amp and voltage anyway so, I've always been way over protected.
Once you're done, your lights will work as they're supposed to. Now, as for your third brake light. No, there is no LEGAL requirement for it to be activated when the vehicle is being towed. I set mine up to be activated in my 2011 Honda CRV simply because it was easy to do so. The reason it was easy on the CRV was because that car has "Amber" turn signals which are totally separate from the brake light system. But, on a "two-filament" system, such as a Jeep, the third brake light is a totally separate system from the normal brake lights. So, to activate it with the wiring from the coach, would take intricate wiring.
Anyway, do as you like. There's no need to panic when it comes to tying into the factory wiring. It's wiring, not the plague. Simply strip some insulation, wrap your new signal wire from the coach, solder it, wrap it up with tape nice and tight, DONE. Put all the wires back under the door sill and, that's it. Your choice. Good luck how ever you do it.
Scott
P.S. Yes, if you add an auxiliary braking system like say, the Ready Brake, the Jeep brake lights will be activated when the Jeeps brakes are applied. Now you'll have two conflicting signals going to the tail lights. So, my simple remedy was to cut the brake light signal wire from the brake switch on the Jeep, run it to the door jamb where, I installed a micro-toggle switch, double throw.
On one side of the switch, I ran a wire right back down to the place where I cut it and tied it onto the cut wire. On the other side of the switch, I ran that wire, all the way to the front of the Jeep, the through the Pig tail, and all the way to the dash on on the motor home. Now, When towing the Jeep, I simply flip the switch so the signal from the jeeps brake switch is sent to the dash on the motor home where it lights a tiny LED, telling me the brakes are being applied in the Jeep.
When driving the jeep, we flip the switch so the signal from the Jeeps brake switch travels as normal to the jeeps brake lights.
Scott
