1800watt nuwave oven

I have a 1875 watt 1.7 CF unit. It came with a 500 mm 14/3 20 amp plug. It is a commercial oven.

Oh one other recommendation.. a KILL-A-Watt. Meter. This is a plug in and then plug into meter that measures voltage, Current and the phase relationship between them (power factor) and more. It's about 1000 to 1500 worth of meters in, last I checked a 25 dollar box. Oh it measures frequency too (for you generator users)

I have found it fairly accurate (At least mine is)
You plug the oven into it and well.. It will tell you the ACTUAL draw if you push the right buttons.

RichB3125 wrote:
We have been using the NuWave and it's previous models for 20+ years our RVs (both 30 and 50 amp) with no problems. It is a UL listed appliance for home countertop use.

Rich

The old style nuwave induction cooker only draws 1300 watts and then only on the maximum setting or when first starting to warm the pan. The newer ones draw more, which is unfortunate.

pianotuna wrote:
Being a bit of watt freak, I always check my devices. Rarely is the name plate accurate. I find, in general, that the wattage listed is too high for the "real life" output.

Of course wattage in resistance devices is affected by the square of the voltage.

Having worked on products with "nameplate amps/watts draw" yes, in most cases actual draw will be less than the nameplate states. The nameplate rating must take into account worst case draw under all conditions including variations in draw based on design tolerances and also line voltage tolerances.

We have been using the NuWave and it's previous models for 20+ years our RVs (both 30 and 50 amp) with no problems. It is a UL listed appliance for home countertop use.

Rich

The short answer is yes. but.. Be careful.
First you will newed to turn off most everything
Second the wiring in your RV is likely not up to "Grade" for that oven. you may burn out the outlet or an up-line outlet it's plugged into.

My RV was a 50 amp and I added "Kitchen 2" circuit. New breaker 12ga wire, GFCI *15/20 amp model* and a daisy off the gfci 15/20 outlet.

NO overheated wires on that line

Being a bit of watt freak, I always check my devices. Rarely is the name plate accurate. I find, in general, that the wattage listed is too high for the "real life" output.

Of course wattage in resistance devices is affected by the square of the voltage.

I was worried about much the same thing so decided to add an Extra Circuit Problem solved.

Code allows 1875 watts on a 15-amp circuit. BUT into a dedicated single receptacle. The plug if it has one decides the correct circuit for the unit. My monster Samsung is 100% stainless steel, and it came with a 20-amp plug. The merchant could not sell it, so I bagged it for $105 It will violently boil 4 cups of water in under a minute. The tag on the back says 17.8 amps

as long as you have two things
1) a 20 A circuit
2) a outlet that is a 20A outlet, not a 15A outlet.

I believe if the device really has a draw 1800W by NEC code it must have a 20A plug. 1800W is right at the limit for a 15A breaker.

It's common on 20A circuits to have 15A duplex outlets rather than 20A duplex outlets. If the trailer only has 15A outlets, you won't be able to plug it in, a 20A plug has one prong perpendicular to the other rather than two parallel prongs for the hot and neutral.

But then it is pretty uncommon to find home appliances, even in the kitchen, that have a draw that requires a 20A plug. for things like a microwave the 20A breaker requirement comes from the % draw NEC allows for a single dedicated device on a circuit, NEC limits the dedicated device draw to something like 80% of the breaker rating.