professor95 wrote:
OK - like I said no harm will come from the wrong wires.
Since the yellow-yellow in #2 did not work you must have the circuit in #1 with the timed motor start relay. Therefore go with yellow-red for the supra6. That should work. No idea what the time delay is - probably something like a minute. Fan starts first then when the time delay relay hits the compressor starts. This is good for a generator as it does not put the load from both motors on at one time.
In the schematic the start capacitor appears to be "optional", but your photo shows two caps, so the one in the dashed line area is there. The back capacitor is the compressor based on the wire color.
Ok thanks for the reply. I guess I'm confused now, probably always been confused. I know the picture is not the best, so it might be helpful to describe it as well. I see three capacitors in there, and based on wire color it matches up with the #2 side of the schematic.
The tall gray one which matches the wiring in the schematic labeled as the 'run capacitor' with two yellows and a white on one side, and two reds and an open on the other side. (Three spade terminals on each side of this capacitor for a total of six)
The little black one in the back matches the wiring schematic labeled 'start capacitor' with the two yellow wires going to it, and it appears to have some sort of little bridge thingy soldered across the other two terminals. (four spade terminals total on this capacitor) This is the one I tried wiring the SPP6 to today.
The little gray one in front has one brown wire and one brown wire with white stripe going to it, which matches with the schematic as the 'fan capacitor'.
I don't think this AC unit has the delayed start as it sure seems like it is starting both the fan and compressor at the same time, or if there is a delay it is more like one second or so.
Is there any harm in attempting to install the SPP6 across the run capacitor? The SPP6 has two wires, one has a regular spade connector and the other has the piggy-back spade connector (for use where there is no open connector on the capacitor). I'm not sure what terminals on the run capacitor these two wires should be connected to? I'll probably try this with alligator clips as suggested first to see if it even works.
Some other observations/questions.
When the AC will not start there is nothing when I move the AC thermostat switch to the on position. There is no clicking or sound from the AC, and no change in the generators noise/rpm. Is this just because the AC is not getting enough voltage/amperage such that it doesn't even try to start?
Yet on the occasions that it try's to start but fails to do so there is a clicking sound coming from the AC and the gen bogs way down in rpm/noise. At this point the AC is struggling and seems to be running but very sluggish and then the Honda goes into overload. This whole cycle lasts only about 10-20 second or so. What is making that clicking noise in the AC unit?
There is some sort of time-delay which occurs after a failed start attempt, or after a successful start attempt before it will make another attempt to start. In other words, I have to wait several minutes before it will make another attempt at starting when I move the thermostat switch to on. I believe it also behaves this way when plugged into shore power but I'd have to verify that. Is this delay related in any way to the delay that happens on the heat/furnance side where the burner lighting is delayed until after the fan starts?
Thanks
Wrace wrote:
Well that's discouraging, seems to have made the situation worse.
The Champion has always started this AC even without the hard start capacitor and it did so again after the SPP6 was installed with really no change in effort detected based on how much the Champion drew down in rpms/sound.
The Honda 2000 on the other hand will not start the AC at all now, where it did intermittently when testing yesterday. Now it chokes down the honda and makes clicking noises from the AC and sort of runs slow for a very short time before sending the honda into overload.
Yesterday (before SPP6) much to my surprise the honda started and ran the AC but I could not get it to do so reliably time after time. It even started the AC in eco mode one time.
Ambient temp yesterday was 68 and it's 78 today.
OK - like I said no harm will come from the wrong wires.
Since the yellow-yellow in #2 did not work you must have the circuit in #1 with the timed motor start relay. Therefore go with yellow-red for the supra6. That should work. No idea what the time delay is - probably something like a minute. Fan starts first then when the time delay relay hits the compressor starts. This is good for a generator as it does not put the load from both motors on at one time.
In the schematic the start capacitor appears to be "optional", but your photo shows two caps, so the one in the dashed line area is there. The back capacitor is the compressor based on the wire color.
I am attempting to install the SPP6 right now and need some clarification on installation. The instructions simply say to install it 'over the run capacitor'. I have a call into supco tech support but no reply.
Which of these is the run capacitor, and which terminals are used? The SPP6 has two wires, one of which has a single spade connector, and the other a piggy-back type spade connector.
Edited: I think I figured it out but sent the pictures to supco for confirmation.
It helps if you look at the schematic on the back of the access panel... ๐
Based on this it looks like the run capacitor is the large one in back that has 2 yellow wires and one white wire on one side of the capacitor. White wire looks to go out directly to the compressor. And two red wires plus one open terminal on the other side of the capacitor.
So I assume I plug the single spade connector off the SPP6 on the open terminal on one side, and the piggy-back spade off the SPP6 to the white wire terminal on the other side.
Thanks
Which of these is the run capacitor, and which terminals are used? The SPP6 has two wires, one of which has a single spade connector, and the other a piggy-back type spade connector.
Edited: I think I figured it out but sent the pictures to supco for confirmation.
It helps if you look at the schematic on the back of the access panel... ๐
Based on this it looks like the run capacitor is the large one in back that has 2 yellow wires and one white wire on one side of the capacitor. White wire looks to go out directly to the compressor. And two red wires plus one open terminal on the other side of the capacitor.
So I assume I plug the single spade connector off the SPP6 on the open terminal on one side, and the piggy-back spade off the SPP6 to the white wire terminal on the other side.
Thanks
