7345 converter fan runs alot more

Check for dust build up or any other cooling airflow restrictions.

Dust behind front panel in our 7345 converter.


After vacuuming


For safety's sake, disconnect shore power and ground wire from house batteries before working on converter.

It could be a sign that your battery is bad or even shorted and the converter is trying to bring the voltage up. I would disconnect the battery (conv. doesn't need it) and see if the fan cycling stops.

How old is your house battery?

Do you periodically top off your battery (to below the fill tube bottoms) with distilled water?

Jim

Thanks for the tips. I don't use a battery for my seasonal site, but I'll check for dust build up.

Some converters/chargers from that era do require a battery to be connected at all times.

A couple a years ago We were out camping and noticed that the converter fan was running longer than normal,but didn't worry to much about it.
Few months later we were out camping again ans the fan basically never stopped running. Few hours later the lights inside lights starting dimming and going back to normal. We unplugged from power and went to bed.
The next day I opened up the panel and removed the converter. The whole interior was filled with an ambitious mouse family's nesting material.The circuits were burnt and the nesting material was scorched also. I feel lucky that it didn't start a fire. They got in through a knockout hole that wasn't used or plugged.
While the wife,son and his gf went to the beach for the day I got to search for a new converter. Found a Progressive Dynamics about 40 miles away and had it installed before they returned to the camper.
It is now mounted so that I remove the front panel and remove 2 screws and the converter can be slid out enough that it can be checked every spring.

Hi guys

I have had an opportunity to repair 20 or 30 of these units over the years. As CloudDriver pointed out get that dust out of there it will destroy the unit. Taking it a step further behind that Silver Metal shield shown in his photos is a 2,700ufd 25Vdc cap and 5 resisters seen inside the red circle below. 90% or more of the repairs involve these parts, suggest you take it out and take a look. If you can use a soldering iron and have a drill to get the pop rivets out the job is very simple < 20 minutes with < $10.00 in parts.

Gale Hawkins wrote:
Some converters/chargers from that era do require a battery to be connected at all times.

As I said in my other post, that one does NOT require a battery.