Antenna wiring in roof (Solved)

[Horizon170]

Does anyone know if the wiring is replaceable for the Batwing antenna.
I have the other brand and want to replace it with Winegard W/Wingman.
My connections are corroded and I cant get to them to clean.
I want to run new RG6 to the 12Vpanel inside.
Will it slide or is it stapled in place.
See Signature for RV type.
Thanks

[SoundGuy]

Horizon170 wrote:
Can I add the Sensor Pro to my new antenna?

As wa8xym already said, the Winegard SensarPro replaces the non-amplified wall plate. The difficulty I had was the wall the original wall plate was mounted on was too shallow for the SensarPro so I mounted it in a plastic surface mount electrical box and mounted that to the wall. Bottom item in this pic ...

[Horizon170]

wa8xym--------Thanks for reminding me about the AMP being in the antenna. I just forgot.
Can I add the Sensor Pro to my new antenna?
Marvin

[SoundGuy]

wa8yxm wrote:
Winegard wall plate is not an amplifier if it has a 12 volt outlet, it is the power supply for the amplifier in the antenna ...

A point it seems is lost on virtually everyone, almost universally being referred to as an "amplifier" or "booster" which it is NOT ... the amplifier is in the antenna head. :R As you've pointed out, anyone who wants to actually further "amplify" or "boost" signal gain should invest in a Winegard SensarPro.

[wa8yxm]

Winegard wall plate is not an amplifier if it has a 12 volt outlet, it is the power supply for the amplifier in the antenna however

Now I have the Sensar Pro. Like your wall plate, which it replaces, it is the "Cable/Ant" selector (Except I have one of those elsewhere) it is the power supply for the Rooftop Antenna's buit in amp. but it does not stop there

When the antenna is selected, It seeks the STRONGEST Digital TV signal, and displays both the carrier channel (may be different from what is displayed on your TV) and the signal strength, allowing you to "Aim" more easily

It also, if you push a few buttons, displays ALL signals found and their strength

You can also set a "Channel" to peak with

You can adjust the gain of the internal booster, from a significant REDUCTION to a serious gain.

If you are aiming "Bling" (mounted where you can not see it) you can turn on a BEEPER that indicates the signal strength by sound.

Or you can turn it totally off and choose the park cable inlet.

But no outlet for your phone.

Oh, makes a big difference in what you can see too. More Channels, More Channels.

[Horizon170]

I got it from Camping world and installed the hard part, ROOF stuff yesterday. Will finish up tomorrow. I thought I had a bad connector but it was the antenna cable only the in roof cable was good as I checked it with an Ohm meter.
The bad part was that I had to climb the ladder seven times, I think, and that killed my legs------I ain't no Spring Chicken.:)
CW wanted $137.00 for it but I told the lady on the phone that I could buy it on CW's on line store for $99.00 and since I'm a member of Pres. club they let me pick it up in store for the cheaper price.
I like the new Amp. as it has a 12V outlet that my other didn't have.
I'll use that as a phone charging station.
Marvin
">New Antenna

[LeoandLil]

Or...you could just buy a NEW RV! :B:B...(ok, so after reading that I realize that wasn't so helpful). Nevermind...

[Horizon170]

j-d wrote:
I don't see what you finally did.

I'm getting a new WG with wingman to replace what I have.
Marvin

[j-d]

I don't see what you finally did.

[Horizon170]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
If you have slack cable, just cut of the end and replace it. Use Snap-n-Seal connectors. That is what all the cable companies use.

No slack, I tried.
Marvin

[theoldwizard1]

If you have slack cable, just cut of the end and replace it. Use Snap-n-Seal connectors. That is what all the cable companies use.

[j-d]

Gonna depend on the construction of the coach. That and the layout of where the antenna is relative to where you need the "plate" with the connections and power supply. One of the techs here might be ablet to tell you.

Our Jayco has the "structural foam" roof. So what they did was run the cable from the base of the Winegard where it comes out of the elevating arm, across the roof to a connector right above the cabinet where the plate goes. I always wondered why they didn't go down the hole provided in the Winegard base. It was to avoid tunneling through the foam, or surface mounting the cable.

Would you have to use the old cable to pull the new, or can you fish new and leave the old in place. Which might have to happen if it was secured in the roof structure.

When I replaced the Winegard with King, I abandoned the connection on top of the roof and covered it in Dicor sealant. Then ran the cable down the hole the antenna rotator shaft goes through, notched the control box on the King Jack antenna. That mounts on the ceiling... from there it was 6" of exposed TV cable across the ceiling to a hole I drilled in a cabinet to get to the plate.

You're thinking like I did: All NEW cabling to go with the new antenna! I now have new from Antenna to Plate and from Plate to Front TV. All the new, and all the existing are RG6. The cable from Plate to Rear TV is original but has always been "indoors." Our TV picture is far better on both sets than it was before. The "Park Cable" cable (electrical bay to Plate) is original too. One end is sheltered and the other always inside. I tried a test on it, and it seemed OK but we don't actually use it so it doesn't much matter.

EDIT!!! When you replace TV cabling, you need to either

1. Buy cables with both end terminals already installed, or

2. Strip and Crimp with the actual, genuine, Stripper and Crimper. If you strip the core with pocket knife, cutting pliers, etc. you can "ring" the center conductor. That is very damaging to signal quality since the signal "rides the surface" of the core!

[MandKJohns]

I just replaced mine with new RG6 when I was working on my roof. Mine wasn't stapled in it was just ran along the trusses in the roof. I have a 2002 Dutchmen BH TT. Piece of cake.