Fridge stopped geting cold on electric

assuming you have 110 at the plug, look for loose connections the ....

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Check light will only come on if gas fails....nothing to do with electric failing.

5A fuse on lower board is for electric heating element.
Electric heating element could be bad (unplugged and tested at leads....S/B 44 ohms)
Check 110V AC power at outlet fridge is plugged into
Check for AC power at lower circuit board
J5----AC line voltage (Black)
J6----AC neutral line (White)
J7----AC neutral out to AC heater
J8----AC line out to AC heater Switched side
Could be bad AC circuit, bad connection on plug(s) outlet and on board, could be bad lower board

Testing for AC power and where it isn't will ID probem vs just throwing parts at it

Thanks for all the info. will try the drop light tomorrow see if the plug is bad. also will borrow a Ohm meter to test circuits, checked lower fuses already, all good. Check light never came on ether AC or gas (which doesn't light anyway). I have a surge protector hook up at the shore pole,( think maybe its not getting enough power to the fridge? ) I've used 30 protector since rig was new in 2011.

Wow! we must be getting better....a full page of helpful hints and not one suggests pulling it out for a residential......:W.....Dennis

WOrks fine on Gas, not on electric.

4 suspects in physical order

1: No electric (breaker, wiring fault, check using test lamp (Drop lamp or trouble lamp) at outlet in outside compartment
2: No electric (Plug fell out of socket, see 1)
3: Bad control board. Not closign 120 volt relay or bad relay
4: Bad heat element or wires to heat element bad (Suspect #1 by the way).

To test.
Start by unplugging the 120 volt plug and plugging in a test lamp.. LIGHT good, dark bad

Now using test leads and some care and caution DO NOT TOUCH EXPOSED METAL
attach clip leads to the heat element leads Either end is ok, the other end of the clip leads goes to teh test lamp.. INSULATE THE PLUG (I like to shove it in a plastic container with lid) and plug the unit back in, Switch to AC and see if the light, lights (NOTE Fridge must be warm enough to turn on) If light lights, ti's the heat element, if fridge hits 45 degrees with T-Stat set to coldest and light is NOT on, it is the control board

Dinosaur boards are best.

Check light will only come on if gas fails....nothing to do with electric failing.

5A fuse on lower board is for electric heating element.
Electric heating element could be bad (unplugged and tested at leads....S/B 44 ohms)
Check 110V AC power at outlet fridge is plugged into
Check for AC power at lower circuit board
J5----AC line voltage (Black)
J6----AC neutral line (White)
J7----AC neutral out to AC heater
J8----AC line out to AC heater Switched side
Could be bad AC circuit, bad connection on plug(s) outlet and on board, could be bad lower board

Testing for AC power and where it isn't will ID probem vs just throwing parts at it

Check is ONLY if it does not light on LP. There is no indication of a 120 control problem. Other than no cool. If your line voltage drops below about 104 volts it will go to LP but continue cooling correctly. If the line voltage is between 104 and 110, the heat element will not be as hot as it should be. Low line voltage will cause a Heat Element to not heat to its full potential. Heat Elements either work or do not. Have you checked your 120 voltage when this happens? Doug

Sounds like a bad heating element (or something in the heating circuit).

I did a little research, and this seems to be the best troubleshooting I could find for the 2652.

Dometic 2652 troubleshooting