How much should a converter put out?

[path1]

Bought new batteries. Before I install them and I need to confirm which cable is pos and neg.


So I plugged into 110 A/C and with a volt meter probe at cable ends.
I'm getting a reading of 17.35 volt. Is that a good number of what a healthy converter should be putting out?

(Or does it depend on what make and model I have. Will provide that if needed, but have to move a bunch of stuff)

Thanks

[westend]

As OB states, the "shortstop" is a manual reset circuit breaker, not a relay. You don't have to replace it with the same thing. Most auto parts stores stock auto-resetting breakers in that same amperage. If you had an auto-resetting breaker, you would have had a lot less work.

[path1]

westend wrote:

.I'm not getting anything with volt meter between "C" and "D" which is pos and neg but only when using ON self contain mode

I'm going to assume that you have new batteries connected. Further assuming you have the polarity correct at the battery. Furthest assumption is that you have the voltages stated at the C-D points when converter is powered. Have you checked the inline circuit breaker or fuse close to the batteries? This should be in the (+) phase cable and may be near the battery or adjacent to a disconnect switch.

What is the voltage across the battery terminals?

You may also have a loose or corroded connection in the mix.

Your last sentence..." loose or corroded connection in the mix"

Final problem (I hope) 12 volt from batteries was not making it to converter with in-line relay "shortstop" was stopping flow of elec.

I learned a hole lot on this project. I basically have 2 days taking stuff apart from batterty location to converter, in order to get access, so I could trouble shoot, ect. Problem was 1 foot behind converter the whole time.

Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

That 'shortstop' is a 40A DC Circuit Breaker (resettable....small button manual reset)

[westend]

Your pictures show a terminal block and a circuit breaker. Which wires are connected to what are still a mystery.
When replacing the circuit breaker, use an auto-reset instead of the manual reset. What "fuse" blew? Again, still a mystery as we don't know what you are changing and what the state of affairs is with your 12V system.

[path1]

OP here (once again)

Found the culprit!!! Working backwards from the lugs on converter to batteries and found a thing called "Shortstop" with little black button on top. It is a resettable relay type thing. I mashed the reset button in and still no elec to converter. Bypassed or jumped around it with a volt tester in continuity mode and I did enjoy the sound of buzzard in tester. I took apart the "shortstop" not much to them. Little spring wrapped around that makes plunger go out when out of spec I guess. Going to pick up 2 of them. For now just put in a different "type" but 40 amps to test system and all is good. Still a little bit nervious and fuses just don't pop for no reason. I'm thinking it popped because of batteries just sitting there getting drawn down to nothing.

The raccoons were visiting when taking pic's but they ran when they heard I was working on elec. "The Mighty Majestic" is up and running (again).

After reading about Parallax I will upgrade to PD, but few other projects got to come first.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/bussmann-short-stop-circuit-breakers

[westend]

.I'm not getting anything with volt meter between "C" and "D" which is pos and neg but only when using ON self contain mode

I'm going to assume that you have new batteries connected. Further assuming you have the polarity correct at the battery. Furthest assumption is that you have the voltages stated at the C-D points when converter is powered. Have you checked the inline circuit breaker or fuse close to the batteries? This should be in the (+) phase cable and may be near the battery or adjacent to a disconnect switch.

What is the voltage across the battery terminals?

You may also have a loose or corroded connection in the mix.

[path1]

path1 wrote:

OK...here's what it is. Looks good to me.

13.45 on 120 a/c
13.76 with engine running (Alt charge line)
13.20 with generator running

OP here...This thing is getting interesting. In the beginning of this thread I just wanted to make sure I got pos and neg hooked up right.

I re-checked the readings and there are about the same (see readings in quote above). But one thing I didn't check that I did checked this time was using in self contain mode. (Just running off the batteries)I went to that mode and nothing works.

Link has a pic...I'm not getting anything with volt meter between "C" and "D" which is pos and neg but only when using ON self contain mode. When hooked up to something I get 13.60

I don't understand how a battery sitting for 7 months with a small drain on it can mess up the wiring. I do see how running out the batteries it would mess up the wiring. It's not like gas going bad or tires rotting in the sun.

http://d163axztg8am2h.cloudfront.net/static/doc/e9/67/35ce35e99a07df33a431fcd8a86a.pdf

OK, that's where I'm at right now. Going to pick my tools up and move to another project, let this one rest for awhile.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Scooze me but you can stand on your head with troubleshooting but if the battery doesn't like what it's eating (short rations) it takes it's revenge by dying. Using the precise most inopportune moment in an excursion to jab and yank upward.

You have a choice

Please the battery, or swipe your credit card buying batteries so often the magnetic stripe smears off.

As a retired lead acid battery engineer, I still have to pay homage to my batteries. Approach the throne reverently, bow low, while chanting "Sahib Kemosabe. Tell Me What You wish". A more realistic scenario would be to take your wife to a clothing store and tell her what she's going to buy. Got Hospitalization Insurance?

When folks here are strongly hinting your Paradox or whatever the hell it is, is insufficient, please pay attention or suffer the consequences.

Just my humble opinion

[westend]

All the measurements you take won't verify that your converter is going to charge your new batteries correctly. The Parallax is a single voltage power supply and will never deliver enough current to keep your batteries healthy. If you plan to add solar charging, then keeping the converter original makes marginal sense. If you rely on it to charge your batteries with a genset, it is the wrong tool for the job.
I think you know what the solution is to the issues with your converter.

[path1]

Chris Bryant wrote:

path1 wrote:
Op here....

Well, I thought I was out of trouble with those readings. Aren't those good readings?

Not really- though there are too many variables. None of those voltages is high enough to actually charge your battery, and non are what the converter should be putting out. I think the converter is toast, and the high voltage you are reading is with zero load, but with a load I don't think it is producing much, if any power.

Op here....Correct, readings are without any load.

How does this sound as a game plan. I'll go through "trouble shooting" again to make sure that I did that right and to confirm what I got for readings. Then I'll get numbers under a load. Biggest load I think I can put onto system is the heater, fans (bath and stove) and LED lights.

If above sounds alright...when I take a reading, lets say on a/c how long should I wait after changing to generator to get its reading?

Thanks

[Chris_Bryant]

path1 wrote:
Op here....

Well, I thought I was out of trouble with those readings. Aren't those good readings?

Not really- though there are too many variables. None of those voltages is high enough to actually charge your battery, and non are what the converter should be putting out. I think the converter is toast, and the high voltage you are reading is with zero load, but with a load I don't think it is producing much, if any power.

[path1]

.

[path1]

Op here....

Well, I thought I was out of trouble with those readings. Aren't those good readings?

[Chris_Bryant]

path1 wrote:

OK...here's what it is. Looks good to me.

13.45 on 120 a/c
13.76 with engine running (Alt charge line)
13.20 with generator running

Those are not good voltages at all.

The link that Old Biscuit posted is very worth while if you have Parallax-electronic series 7300. I saved a copy on computer and printed out a copy for "my" RV's owners manual. Couple big clues to me were that several suggested in their posting, no big deal about higher voltage.

High voltage IS a big deal- it means the unit is not working correctly, which is reinforced by the voltages you measured.

I predict you will shortly be buying yet another battery.