Issue with Lights

Now THAT may be the fault of the motorhome modifications. But the seat itself did not do anything wrong.

I trust NOTHING untested. Your replacement switch may or may not be better than the original. After driving several hours with the lights on, do as I suggested above and grasp the stem of the switch with your fingers. Is it hot? It shouldn't be. And that ends with a PERIOD. No sense dealing with it if it's not a problem.
I do not give a **** what kind of switch it is or where it is IT SHOULD NEVER GET HOT TO THE TOUCH.

And as far as Ford is concerned, the first ignition amplifiers I found clamped to the side of distributors was insulated with clear silicone grease. Ford electrical STUPIDITY. I replaced the modules, roughed up the aluminum surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper and used the proper heat sinking material ZINC OXIDE.

And then there was Ford's 2nd generation alternators. A pair of 25 amp rated push on terminals to carry up to 75 amps of IAR alternator load. Result? FIRES! Not a dozen, not hundreds but THOUSANDS. Ford sleazed out of a general recall.
Transpo Electronics made a fortune modifying alternator rectifiers and changing to a standard stud which fit a freshly drilled hole in the case.

But the 2G, and the headlight switch problem is history. Hopefully a majority of that era's engineers are as well. Fear not, GM and MoPar have their electrical nightmares history as well. Line-em-up. Nissan, Toyota, Schultzwagen and let us not forget the Volvo with wire insulation rotting off under the dash after eight years.

I've said it for years I would have lasted mere minutes in a corporate environment before I went to prison. You can't cure stupid.

My lights are all working with the new switch. I have a powered driver seat that was not working. After replacing the headlight switch, it works. Any idea why this would be wired with the headlight switch?

Just wanted to say thanks for all the help. My new headlight switch came in today. I installed it and all lights are working great. Thanks again for all the helo!

Hey Richard you are correct. The headlights stay on, but all other lights go out. Tail, clearaance, and rear lights. Are you talking about the contacts on the back of the headlight switch? Since the switch seems to be a issue wouldnt it be better to get a new switch anyway?

Thanks for all the help!

Well and truly understood.
If that switch gets hot enough it will trip the headlight breaker. Just because of thermal ampere de-rating.

I have no idea if premium aftermarket brands are even as good as OEM

But after doing far too many relay conversions, if the tail lights come on even for ten seconds, a faulty switch will easily power a tail light TYCO relay for decades with only normal switch heating (very little).

I've driven 40 year old MoPars and Chevrolets with original switches yet I have fixed (how many?) nearly new Ford E and A products. Six months old and this? Jartran got upset at me for driving 500 miles and doing on-the-spot night time repairs on stranded customer's rigs. Stupid Stupid Stupid...

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I'll spell it out...choose one...

Bad design--crummy materials
insufficient load capacity

BUT IT ISN'T THE HEADLIGHTS

It's the tail lights and markers that go out. And the problem is within the switch. Idiots limited the circuitry to carry

Parking lights
Single (pair) tail lamps
Four upper clearance lamps

Switch on a push pull headlight switch on a Ford. Set to high beam. If you have a rig with say eight extra lamps, squeeze the extended knob stem after fifteen minutes. OUCH.

Brilliant

What do overheated breakers do?
Carry less amperage
Carry more amperage

DOT ratings specify a temperature for circuit breakers integral with headlight switches.

I've diagnosed far too many examples of this to have been fooled.

Use a Tyco circuit breaker and ease the misery and perhaps avoid a "your fault" collision at night.

Newer automobiles and rigs use circuit breakers and relays. Problem solved. Big Rigs use common feeders and as many as three tower type (White Rogers) relays to feed tractor, semi and trailer. I had to upgrade a bunch of triples in Nevada for Jartran. NVDOT was ready to shut down the fleet.

But Mex, he is NOT having a circuit breaker problem. The circuit breaker in the headlight switch is ONLY for the headlights, not the other lights the switch controls. He is probably having contact failure in the switch. The OP indicated his headlights were staying on when all the other lights failed.

Richard

I'll spell it out...choose one...

Bad design--crummy materials
insufficient load capacity

BUT IT ISN'T THE HEADLIGHTS

It's the tail lights and markers that go out. And the problem is within the switch. Idiots limited the circuitry to carry

Parking lights
Single (pair) tail lamps
Four upper clearance lamps

Switch on a push pull headlight switch on a Ford. Set to high beam. If you have a rig with say eight extra lamps, squeeze the extended knob stem after fifteen minutes. OUCH.

Brilliant

What do overheated breakers do?
Carry less amperage
Carry more amperage

DOT ratings specify a temperature for circuit breakers integral with headlight switches.

I've diagnosed far too many examples of this to have been fooled.

Use a Tyco circuit breaker and ease the misery and perhaps avoid a "your fault" collision at night.

Newer automobiles and rigs use circuit breakers and relays. Problem solved. Big Rigs use common feeders and as many as three tower type (White Rogers) relays to feed tractor, semi and trailer. I had to upgrade a bunch of triples in Nevada for Jartran. NVDOT was ready to shut down the fleet.

Circuit breakers for headlights are mandated by one of the many governmental agencies. But only the headlights. All the other lights controlled by the head light switch are on fuses.
So If your headlights are staying on and the other lights fail in time, I suggest the contacts in the headlight switch, for the other lights are failing.
circuit breakers in head light switches.

Richard

dougrainer wrote:

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Start and Stop

The OEM headlight switch is overloading and the integral circuit breaker is tripping. Unbelievable. Ford had this issue 38 years ago and never fixed it.

Either patch it up with a new headlight switch replacement

Or add a relay to power the small BROWN wire the exits the cab and powers tail and clearance lamps.

You Tube
Tail lights relay installation.

Really, Ford had a supposed issue 38 years ago and you state it must still be an issue????? There are tens of millions of these Ford switches out there. IF there was a supposed defect, don't you think there would be a great outcry on this supposed problem? The simple fact is, the OP has a 18 year old Headlight switch that has failed from 18 years of current flow. Just replace it, NO BIG DEAL. Doug

There was a DOT uproar and like it or not I have encountered this issue about THIRTY TIMES more common on Ford chassis, from F100 to F600 models than on GM, MoPar, or other chassis. I have seen many a motor home twice and three times the age and probably hours of the Ford what do not have have and did not have headlight switch problems.

An overwhelming percentage of other-than-Ford motorhomes die of old age without switch problems. I mentioned changing it. You make your income repairing failed parts. I make my money designing circuits that have a phenomenally low percentage of failure. That is the difference. I must have changed 15 headlight switches in as many years and I am retired. I changed close to a hundred circuits while at Jartan and every one of them was Ford a 100.00% record. They sized their integral switch circuit breaker for a maximum load of a bare chassis E-250 E-350. The breaker gets weaker as it carries near a maximum load. Another point -- do you believe that rig has THAT MANY hours on the switch?

My tolerance for junk is near zero. Like "semi-self changing spark plugs."
To have maintain a hare brained design for that many years was imbecilic. Now Ford uses relays as they should have all along.

Thanks!