Leaking pressure relief valve.
I need to replace my relief valve on the water heater but man this thing is tight. I really don't want to pound on it. I figured I'd get it hot first but is there a special wrench or? Thanks!
Forum Discussion
- I replaced mine a few weeks ago. I used a monkey wrench.
wildtoad wrote:
corvettekent wrote:
It is very common for this to leak as a RV water system is closed and when water is heated it expanes. Instead of replacing your relief valve add an expantion tank to your water system.
If the valve is not leaking around the threads, but instead is releasing pressure during the heating cycle, bite the bullet and do what this guy said to do. I fought with my Suburban wh for 4 years, trying different pressure relief valves, doing all the things they say to do to replenish the air pocket and none them helped a darn thing. Mine was the only Suburban wh I have owned through 5 RV’s and it’s the only one that had the leaking valve problem.
Suburban documents this in such a way to say it is normal, but they need to solve the problem. It was really disappointing to buy a $120k motorhome and have a brand new WH drip water when heating.
Finally I had a small expansion tank installed on the inlet side water line, and bingo bango bongo the problem was solved.
I work on RV's (41 years) and I have NEVER had a Suburban or Atwood seep at the Relief valve that getting the air gap reinstalled did not fix it. Are you the only person that has worked on your Water Heater? Adding the expansion tank, while it fixed your problem was just a work around. I have seen thousands of Suburban's over the years and none leaked and Suburban does not have an inherent problem. If your Dealer/Service Center could not fix it under warranty, that points to THEIR ineptitude. DougHarvard wrote:
Like Kent and Doug said, you need to re-establish the air cavity to the top of the tank. Water in that cavity does not compress, air in that cavity does compress.
Yes, try the above before replacing the T&P valve.- Like Kent and Doug said, you need to re-establish the air cavity to the top of the tank. Water in that cavity does not compress, air in that cavity does compress.
corvettekent wrote:
It is very common for this to leak as a RV water system is closed and when water is heated it expanes. Instead of replacing your relief valve add an expantion tank to your water system.
If the valve is not leaking around the threads, but instead is releasing pressure during the heating cycle, bite the bullet and do what this guy said to do. I fought with my Suburban wh for 4 years, trying different pressure relief valves, doing all the things they say to do to replenish the air pocket and none them helped a darn thing. Mine was the only Suburban wh I have owned through 5 RV’s and it’s the only one that had the leaking valve problem.
Suburban documents this in such a way to say it is normal, but they need to solve the problem. It was really disappointing to buy a $120k motorhome and have a brand new WH drip water when heating.
Finally I had a small expansion tank installed on the inlet side water line, and bingo bango bongo the problem was solved.- Before replacing, try 'cleaning' it. There could be some debris in the seal area. With the water cool/cold but under pump pressure, flip it open and closed a couple of times, this might be enough to clean it and stop the leak, also a good time to turn the pump off and re-establish the air bubble. Cost $zero.
If that doesn't work, time to replace.
Ken corvettekent wrote:
It is very common for this to leak as a RV water system is closed and when water is heated it expanes. Instead of replacing your relief valve add an expantion tank to your water system.
No, you add the missing air gap in the water heater. Doug
https://radioarizonarv.com/atwood-rv-water-heater-maintenance-tips-tricks/#:~:text=The%20Atwood%20water%20heater%20tank,water%20will%20absorb%20this%20air.&text=Allow%20pressure%2Dtemperature%20relief%20valve,turn%20on%20the%20water%20supply.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYSEaw1XRmQ- It is very common for this to leak as a RV water system is closed and when water is heated it expanes. Instead of replacing your relief valve add an expantion tank to your water system.
