I have a 2008 model Norcold N821 2 stage refer in my 5th wheel that up until a week ago was flawless - on both electricity and gas. We parked at Prescott AZ last year all summer until late August; temp control set at 7 would freeze the lettuce (though the beer was really great), so had to reduce to 5. Trailer sat unused until about two weeks ago, turned on the refer to cool down prior to a trip. It was on electricity part of the time and on gas the balance of the time. After 3 days of being on (and empty), freezer was at 27, fridge was at 50. Days were at 90 and nights 75 with high humidity. Loaded the frozen and cold food overnight and temp came down to 40 in the fridge and freezer still at 27. Left to go on the trip and 2nd night out the overnight outdoor temp was in the high 40's, fridge was at 35 by the morning. Daytime temps in the 70s. Came home on 4th day and now at day 5 freezer is at 0 and fridge is at 34 with temp setting on 7. So what's going on with this refer? Definitely not normal to take 5 days to cool down in moderate temps (79* outside now, about 60 last night). Not a gas problem, or an electric supply problem - they both have the same result. I have 2 large computer fans blowing up thru the back of the fridge and it's as clean as can be up there - no blockage. I have 2 small computer fans attached to the fins inside to circulate the air. Tried removing the thermister from the fins to see if that might be the problem, but no real change. The refer definitely cools, is just takes a REALLY LONG TIME. Trailer is stored very level and we level pretty precisely when we're out using it. I don't THINK it's a cooling unit problem. I have heard of a main board electrical 'reset' but do not think this is likely to help my situation. Can someone explain what this reset does and what it's purpose is? Any suggestions to determine what the problem might be?

Reset is only for when 'No Co' (no cooling) error and fridge 'locks out' (can't operate it) You model doesn't have a 'N' or 'No Co' code.3 days of running empty and freezer 27*F and food section 50*F-------cooling unit is NOT functioning Day 5 it it finally at proper temps (0*F & 34*F)I suggest you turn it off for at least 2 days.....let it completely warm up and then unplug electric element from circuit board. Plug it directly into AC power source and run it 24 hrs.....force cool it/bypassing circuit board--thermistor.IF it doesn't cool down in 24 hrs--bad cooling unit

If it is working now, why the post?34 in the refrigerator is indicating that it is working.. . The fact that you started it at over 80F outside temps and it took over 24 hours to cool down, that is somewhat normal.Running on gas, you get about 2,200 Btu's input to the boiler, and that is probably 80% efficient, or 20% goes up the flue. So about 440 is lost to the flue, and 1760 used to separate the ammonia water mixture.If you have a 300 watt electric heater, that is about 1,000 Btu's of heat. So running on gas, you get about 75% more heat into the boiler.I would always start my refrigerator about 3 days before leaving. So leave on Friday after work = turn it on Tuesday, night and level the motorhome. If it went from 70F to about 55F in the refrigerator overnight, and then to 45F during the next day, I was happy, and could start loading it with food on Thursday night. If it did not get cold by Thursday morning, I had time to fix it before leaving on Friday.Fred.

Golden_HVAC wrote:If it is working now, why the post?FredI don't think it's supposed to take 5 days to cool down. It never has before in the years that I've owned it. So something is different and I'm trying to determine what is different that can be fixed. It 'works' in 80* weather, but when I go to 105* weather, will it keep the food in the 35*-40* range? Appreciate your comments and thoughts.

Old-Biscuit wrote: 3 days of running empty and freezer 27*F and food section 50*F-------cooling unit is NOT functioning I suggest you turn it off for at least 2 days.....let it completely warm up and then unplug electric element from circuit board. Plug it directly into AC power source and run it 24 hrs.....force cool it/bypassing circuit board--thermistor.IF it doesn't cool down in 24 hrs--bad cooling unitI was hoping that you wouldn't tell me that, but I was definitely leaning that direction. Will do the test to see what happens. Does the fact that it operates same on gas vs electricity tell you anything?

Balky thermostat or perhaps a piece of slag circulating in the cooling unit.

Norcold N821 takes FOREVER to get to cool temps

jcpainter
Explorer
Aug 30, 2015
Ron Nielson wrote:
There is a document that exists on the internet titled 'publication 631361a' Google that and you will find one choice under Bryant RV named Norcold Electronics Troubleshooting, which is a .pdf file with all the instructions and information.

to Start, press and hold TEMP SET and MODE at the same time, release when you see a 1 on the display. Pressing the mode button will get you to the next selection. To get to out of this, turn refrigerator off, and then back on. You really need to look at the .pdf file, and have knowledge of the board number for your refrigerator. Mine was 628661 and it's printed at the edge of the board.

Thanks!
Ron_Nielson
Explorer
Aug 30, 2015
There is a document that exists on the internet titled 'publication 631361a' Google that and you will find one choice under Bryant RV named Norcold Electronics Troubleshooting, which is a .pdf file with all the instructions and information.

to Start, press and hold TEMP SET and MODE at the same time, release when you see a 1 on the display. Pressing the mode button will get you to the next selection. To get to out of this, turn refrigerator off, and then back on. You really need to look at the .pdf file, and have knowledge of the board number for your refrigerator. Mine was 628661 and it's printed at the edge of the board.
jcpainter
Explorer
Aug 30, 2015
Ron Nielson wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Ron Nielson wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:

What day did you mess with thermistor and change temp setting from 5 to 7?
Day 3 day 5?

DO the direct electric element test.

Have you checked the 'diagnostic screens'?

What day did you mess with thermistor and change temp setting from 5 to 7?
Believe that was day 3. Not absolutely certain.

Diagnostic Screen Results:

#1 - Diagnostic mode active- Results OK all segments lit
#2 - Led Segments Reliability Check - OK
#3 - Thermistor Fin Temperature - OK - 62*
#4 - Stored Faults - OK received Door Ajar and Ignition Fault
#5 - Stored Fault History - Thermistor Failure (possibly because I removed thermistor from fins?)
#6 - Erase Fault History - done
#7 - Power Board Inputs - thermistor sensing fin temperature
#8 - Power board outputs - AC power to AC heater and DC power to divider heater
#9 - Power Board DC Voltage Status - DC voltage normal
#10 Power Board AC Voltage Status - AC voltage normal

Will do the AC direct power tomorrow.

Ron, how do you get get these diagnostic results on the N82? We have the same model and are having similar problems.
jcpainter
Explorer
Aug 30, 2015
Skid Row Joe wrote:
FWIW, propane fired absorption RV refers cool much better on propane than 110AC. However, in a perfect weather scenario - either mode; propane/110AC would do equally as well. Good luck!

I'm a bit confused on this statement. The first sentence says that the frig will cool better on propane, the next sentence says that the frig will cool the same on either propane or 110. Perhaps I'm having a senior moment and reading it wrong.

Does one cool better than the other?
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Aug 05, 2015
So new thermistor and fridge is cooling down almost the same temps on electric and propane.....GOOD!

Got a spare relay?
Ron_Nielson
Explorer
Aug 05, 2015
Freezer -5, fridge 32 morning after start. I'm calling it good. No improvement needed. No more parts to buy.
Ron_Nielson
Explorer
Aug 03, 2015
New thermister installed today. Still pulling 289 watts, 2.45 amps at the 120v receptacle for the fridge. So fridge is not pulling all 300 watts, although very close, that the heater itself should draw. Will see how long it takes to cool.
Ron_Nielson
Explorer
Aug 01, 2015
Ron Nielson wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
But, you still have a 120 volt supply problem. UNLESS, you have an aftermarket 120 element or an Element that is NOT the correct wattage for your refer. That is why I would want to know the amp draw of the element. Doug

Doug

The 120V heater is original to the refrigerator. When tested independent of the control board, the refer works just fine at ~114 volts. So I am fairly certain that the problem is not (primarily) the heater, and that's why I think it IS the control board.

Just to satisfy those who say 'replace the thermistor', I have one on order and will test again with a new thermistor. As pointed out, it's only $15 (and less work than replacing the board) and a board is $100. I'll wait to buy the control board until I've tested with the new thermistor, just to be sure.

I forgot that I had a plug in meter (Kill a Watt) to test volts, amps, etc on a 120V circuit. So I plugged it into the receptacle and the refrigerator into the meter and at 118.0 volts, it indicated 2.45 amps. That comes to about 289 watts (I forgot to look at the watts indicated on the meter) which is just a hair short of the 300 watt rating of the a/c heater itself. I just did this to check the draw for about 30 seconds. The fridge had been turned off for several days and was quite warm.
Ron_Nielson
Explorer
Jul 28, 2015
Relay ordered.
wnjj
Explorer II
Jul 27, 2015
Ron Nielson wrote:
Yes, the picture is the exact number of the board in my trailer. I got the number from the board, went to Amazon, selected the board and put in in the cart, then marked it 'save for later'. I did not check to see the labeling of the relay, k1 k2 etc to compare to the picture or a wiring schematic. The trailer is a 2009 model but was built in 2008, August, IIRC.

Do you want me to remove the board cover so that I can visually see the board? Maybe I'm looking at the wrong relay?

Here's an Omron replacement available (but backordered a little) on digikey. It has the same footprint, 5VDC coil voltage and current as the Goodsky one. The only difference is a 16A AC contact rating instead of 15A (more is better but the contact need only support a couple amps for the heater anyway.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G5LE-1A-E-36%20DC5/Z5217-ND/1815659

Here are the two datasheets for reference:

Omron datasheet

Goodsky datasheet

Apparently Norcold did change the board design some so the schematics I linked may be off a little. The manual I found has a 16-pin connector which apparently they changed to separate 10-pin and 6-pin ones in recent designs. If your board matches the Amazon one, the Omron relay will work.