Propane hook up for peripherals

I am seriously opposed to the DIY fire starters.
I much prefer to use something like the "Extend-A-Stay" which was originally made by Marshall Brass.. They no longer make it but there is a Stay-A-While made by someone else (Camco? Mr. Heater?) which appears to be identical. Ask at an RV store for "Extend-a-stay" and anyone over 40 should know exactly what you mean.

I've found that NOT all LP burners will operate on 11" w.c. I had a great rv grill about 20+ years ago that used a 15" reg/control and I tried it at 11" and it couldn't even roast a marshmallow. Plus, if you have an 11" burner and you want to skip the appliance reg/control and put your rv 11" straight to the orifice, you need a needle valve or similar, unless you want the heat to always be at high fire.
Here's what I did. I had 18 psi between the stages and that's enough to allow the use of any of the LP appliance reg/controls and retain those features, regardless of orifice pressure. I put a CGA 600 male connector on the end of the hose to connect to the disposable cylinder regs. You might need to use a high pressure extend-a-hose kit, or similar, depending on exactly what you need. Craig

Thanks for the good info.

Good information above. Some BBQ's have a built in regulator which can be more involved to bypass which was part of my reason for installing a high pressure tap. For my setup I added the El and shut off valve, moved the regulator to the right and inserted the adapter. No cutting etc required.

Note: If you are a DIY person do not use the white teflon tape, instead buy the yellow gas type. The valve is type WOG rated for gas.

Typically, coming out of the tank, there is a pressure regulator that lowers the propane pressure. All the built in appliances are designed to operate on this lower pressure.

The issue with connecting a propane grills is it typically already has a regulator on the grill but since the grill is seeing low pressure, there isn't enough pressure to open the 2nd regulator.

What you need is an adapter that eliminates the regulator on the grill. For safety reasons, they typically use different fittings.

It's fairly common to have a tap for outdoor propane appliances already built in and it wouldn't be hard to add one if you don't. It's nice because you don't have to haul around separate propane tanks just for the grill.

If you aren't familiar, I would suggest stopping by a propane place that sells fittings and such. Take the MH with you and ask them if they can set it up. They will likely have all the fittings and may have someone who can put it together for you (they may be willing to do it themselves).

Low pressure propane fittings are common on RVs and you may need to remove the external BBQ regulator as the use of 2 regulators in series may give inconsistent propane pressure.

I installed a high pressure connection which will not be a problem with external propane usage. I could add a T for multiple propane devices (I have a BBQ and firepit) if desired. This is my high pressure adapter with a El (for hose routing considerations) and a shutoff valve. The top external tank port is for additional external tank. The BBQ connector is the standard 1 lb 1" screw on propane bottle type and hence no modification is required for any propane device.


Click For Full-Size Image.

Hoses with the standard 1” screw on adapters are available. And an adapter for the standard BBQ regulator fitting are available. Propane stores can also make custom length hoses however I use 1 or 2 12' hoses as needed.

Here are the parts that connect to any grill with a external tank connector.

Personally, I would much rather carry a portable propane cylinder than cut into the propane system.

Firepits are low pressure and RV grills are also. Most standard grills can be adapted by removing their regulator and adding a quick disconnect fitting. You need to tap into the LPG system downstream of the regulator which is the low pressure side and install an LPG female disconnect. It's not rocket science as some would lead you to believe but does require a little common sense and some mechanical ability.

Without seeing your particular setup, no one will be able to reccomend anything specific. Better to get a knowlegable individual involved, on site.