Water heater temp setting?

Casinojunkie wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

Casinojunkie wrote:
Update!!!
Did a test this morning and found water temp after heater running for 1 hour on electric was 135* using a meat thermometer. Water heater did not shut off the entire time, checking with a "Prime products A.C. Voltage tester"
Maybe my getting old is more sensitive to my skin.
Do not know what steps to take now.
Thanks for all responses.

You stated your test was on 120 electric and water heater never shut off. You used A Prime products tester. Unless you were using a AMP meter, how could you possibly know the 120 did not shut off? Where was your prime products tester connected????? 135 degrees is right where it should be. Can you please post the MODEL NUMBER of the water heater? Doug

Tester plugged into 110v close to heater, reading was 120v, Turned heater switch on and voltage dropped to 113v, shut switch off voltage bounced back to 120v. Model # CG10A-4E dated 10/26/11

Then OEM WH has been swapped out to 'newer' deign WH (4E)
That means both electric and propane use the same set of t-stats therefore you can change normal t-stat to the optional lower preset 120*F one OR the adjustable one (110*F-150*F) and have much cooler hot water output than standard (140*F)

dougrainer wrote:

Casinojunkie wrote:
Update!!!
Did a test this morning and found water temp after heater running for 1 hour on electric was 135* using a meat thermometer. Water heater did not shut off the entire time, checking with a "Prime products A.C. Voltage tester"
Maybe my getting old is more sensitive to my skin.
Do not know what steps to take now.
Thanks for all responses.

You stated your test was on 120 electric and water heater never shut off. You used A Prime products tester. Unless you were using a AMP meter, how could you possibly know the 120 did not shut off? Where was your prime products tester connected????? 135 degrees is right where it should be. Can you please post the MODEL NUMBER of the water heater? Doug

Tester plugged into 110v close to heater, reading was 120v, Turned heater switch on and voltage dropped to 113v, shut switch off voltage bounced back to 120v. Model # CG10A-4E dated 10/26/11

dewey02 wrote:

rockhillmanor wrote:

dewey02 wrote:
Wouldn't using the Water heater by-pass valve work?
Slightly open the bypass valve so that some cold water bypasses the heater and bleeds into your hot water line beyond the water heater. This will mix some cold in with the hot and bring the temp down. Keep futzing with the valve until you reach the temp that you desire.
Why wouldn't this work? And it will cost you nothing, just a bit of time.

OMG :R

Have the hot water heater checked out and get it FIXED!

Many current Fifth Wheels and travel trailers have no temperature adjustment on their hot water heater. And the non-adjustable is set at 140 degrees. Our water gets too hot to take a shower in or to wash your hands under using only the hot water. However, it doesn't get so hot that it trips the pop-off valve. This is actually NORMAL for the way most 5er and TT water heaters work. It is factory set at 140 degrees so it is NOT an error, nor is it supposed to trip the pop-off valve at that temperature. The OP said his water temp was 135 degrees, that is NOT a malfunctioning water heater.

I get that you had a bad experience, but that isn't reason for everyone to run out and have properly functioning water heaters checked, although it would probably make RV maintenance guys happy and rich.

So there is nothing to be OMG'ing about.

Yes, he can have the water heater checked out to be ultra safe, but he will spend money having it checked and probably spend even more money for whatever "fix or solution" they propose for him. You can actually purchase a replacement adjustable thermostat for the non-adjustable one that came standard on the water heater. (See the attached video which also speaks to the water at 140 degrees being too hot for most people)

Correct.........

Higher temp t-stat allows for 'longer' hot water from smaller WH.
One is not suppose to use just hot water....cold water is to be mixed at faucet/shower.
Unfortunately.....not all understand that especially kids.

So folks need to be reminded if they are not accustomed to RV hit water supply temps.

And the 'pop-off' valves (Temp-Pressure Relief) hopefully don't reach pop-off temps or pressures (210*F/150 psi)
The High temp t-stat (180*F) should shut down WH if the normal t-stat should fail

Cracking open the WH bypass valve is a means of lowering the hot water temp as it leaves WH tank......better than scalding a child or folks that are heat sensitive.
An adjustable t-stat is available for ATWOOD but if WH is 2003 or prior year model that only works for gas side. It will work for 2004 and newer models due to combined t-stats.

Suburban WH have similar issue

rockhillmanor wrote:

dewey02 wrote:
Wouldn't using the Water heater by-pass valve work?
Slightly open the bypass valve so that some cold water bypasses the heater and bleeds into your hot water line beyond the water heater. This will mix some cold in with the hot and bring the temp down. Keep futzing with the valve until you reach the temp that you desire.
Why wouldn't this work? And it will cost you nothing, just a bit of time.

OMG :R

Have the hot water heater checked out and get it FIXED!

Many current Fifth Wheels and travel trailers have no temperature adjustment on their hot water heater. And the non-adjustable is set at 140 degrees. Our water gets too hot to take a shower in or to wash your hands under using only the hot water. However, it doesn't get so hot that it trips the pop-off valve. This is actually NORMAL for the way most 5er and TT water heaters work. It is factory set at 140 degrees so it is NOT an error, nor is it supposed to trip the pop-off valve at that temperature. The OP said his water temp was 135 degrees, that is NOT a malfunctioning water heater.

I get that you had a bad experience, but that isn't reason for everyone to run out and have properly functioning water heaters checked, although it would probably make RV maintenance guys happy and rich.

So there is nothing to be OMG'ing about.

Yes, he can have the water heater checked out to be ultra safe, but he will spend money having it checked and probably spend even more money for whatever "fix or solution" they propose for him. You can actually purchase a replacement adjustable thermostat for the non-adjustable one that came standard on the water heater. (See the attached video which also speaks to the water at 140 degrees being too hot for most people)

Or...you can just mix in some cold water from your winter bypass valve and solve the problem yourself.

Calm down. It is all a normal situation. It is really nothing to get so excited about.
Video at this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuBoRRojKcA

dewey02 wrote:
Wouldn't using the Water heater by-pass valve work?
Slightly open the bypass valve so that some cold water bypasses the heater and bleeds into your hot water line beyond the water heater. This will mix some cold in with the hot and bring the temp down. Keep futzing with the valve until you reach the temp that you desire.
Why wouldn't this work? And it will cost you nothing, just a bit of time.

OMG :R

Have the hot water heater checked out and get it FIXED!

Casinojunkie wrote:
Update!!!
Did a test this morning and found water temp after heater running for 1 hour on electric was 135* using a meat thermometer. Water heater did not shut off the entire time, checking with a "Prime products A.C. Voltage tester"
Maybe my getting old is more sensitive to my skin.
Do not know what steps to take now.
Thanks for all responses.

You stated your test was on 120 electric and water heater never shut off. You used A Prime products tester. Unless you were using a AMP meter, how could you possibly know the 120 did not shut off? Where was your prime products tester connected????? 135 degrees is right where it should be. Can you please post the MODEL NUMBER of the water heater? Doug

Get a single handle faucet.

Casinojunkie wrote:
Update!!!
Did a test this morning and found water temp after heater running for 1 hour on electric was 135* using a meat thermometer. Water heater did not shut off the entire time, checking with a "Prime products A.C. Voltage tester"
Maybe my getting old is more sensitive to my skin.
Do not know what steps to take now.
Thanks for all responses.

Your electric heat element is crusted/scaled up not allowing proper heat transfer.
WH uses a 1400W element with a recovery rate of 6.2 gallons per hour (from an initial water temp of 70*F)
So under normal reheating conditions (normal t-stat closes and starts reheating water at 110*F) a good clean (non scaled up) element should heat to t-stat set point within 30 minutes.

As we age we can become more sensitive to temperature

(OR we can loose feeling!!)

In your case (2 different sets of t-stats) the electric 120V AC 140*F t-stat is only one available
Propane (12V DC) you could swap out to the 120*F or the Adjustable t-stat.

OR as suggested.....crack open WH Tank bypass valve cooling down hot out as it leaves WH

Update!!!
Did a test this morning and found water temp after heater running for 1 hour on electric was 135* using a meat thermometer. Water heater did not shut off the entire time, checking with a "Prime products A.C. Voltage tester"
Maybe my getting old is more sensitive to my skin.
Do not know what steps to take now.
Thanks for all responses.

dewey02 wrote:
Wouldn't using the Water heater by-pass valve work?
Slightly open the bypass valve so that some cold water bypasses the heater and bleeds into your hot water line beyond the water heater. This will mix some cold in with the hot and bring the temp down. Keep futzing with the valve until you reach the temp that you desire.
Why wouldn't this work? And it will cost you nothing, just a bit of time.

Great idea, I will try it, thanks