Camper Jack Backing Plates for Bigfoot

I have never looked for a backing plate on my 1988 Bigfoot. I do not know if they used backing plates. Actually I replaced my jacks with a Stable Lift. I did leave my factory mounting plates in place. On my Bigfoot, it would major task to get to a backing plate in the rear where the shower is. The other three not so bad.

You should be able to look at the threads on the screws to see if a wood or metal backing plate is used. While it is possible they used no backing plate, I bet they did. The fiberglass at the corners is the thickest, maybe 3/16 to 1/4-inch thick. I question it would hold a screw for the jacks.

On my Bigfoot, the mounting plate wraps under the front corners, with screws under and up the front of the plate. Hard for me to imagine them coming loose. The rears do not wrap.

When you say your screws "keep loosening up", is it all of them or only a couple? Photos might help.

Wayne

A backing plate would imply that there was a nut somewhere. I was always thinking that they were lag bolted on into the framing. Are they heald on with real bolts or lag screws?

Yes, the screws are just lagged into the fiberglass/framing. They are the type with that take a square bit to tighten and have fairly large threads to grip the wood. They are pretty much stripped out and always loosen after going down the road. I have tried to fill the holes with Gorilla Glue but they still back out after a while.

The rear mounts look fine and I probably wont mess with those but the fronts need something done. I have the Dually swing out brackets and it is nerve racking when it is up in the air. It is mainly the bottom screws on the wrap around plates that work loose. Maybe I could just put a backing plate on the bottom with some bolts and leave the tops alone.

If it were me, I'd probably do a couple of things.

1) Remove the brackets completely. Over drill the loose/stipped out holes large enough to glue in some dowels. Start new pilot hole for a tight as new grip.

2) Drill a couple extra holes in the metal brackets where space allows and add a couple extra lags into fresh framing extra peace of mind.

I would also use some Sikaflex or 3M 4200 adhesive to help bond the brackets to the fiberglass.

I would consider the next size larger lag bolt. Much easier than trying to fill an existing hole, and simply drilling more holes will weaken the wood the bolts screw into.

I still thinbk you should post a photo of one of the bolts, and where it goes. It could very well be the solution is to gain axcess to the inside of the TC, drill the hole through the wall, and replace the screws with a nut and bolt.

If the mounting bracket wraps around from the front of the TC, under the overhang, and it is the underside bolts, they do not take much of the TC load. Gotta have photos of what you have or we all are just throwing wild guesses. The repair should be able to be accomplished with everyday hardware.

Wayne

You asked and you shall receive!
As you can see my screws are loose and creating a gap. I can turn them with my hands and they free spin.

You can see the furnace door in the picture but it looks like a decent sized project to pull it out. And I can't really see how to reach back there from the inside. The couch is in the way and with out drilling holes from the bottom I have no idea where the holes would go.

From the photo, it looks like the water on the right side? If so, it looks like you could pull the water heater, and reach the inside. I would use something like a 1/8" drill, and drill through. You then might see if you can in fact use a nut and bolt.

To be honest, I would not be overly concerned. The jack lifts the TC up, and the pressure on those under wing bolts do not carry a load, but only keep the bottom of the bracket from sliding forward. They would do their job if only held in place with masking tape. The bolts in front do a very different job. If it were mu TC, I would use the next size larger lag bolt (not screw). I would only drill the steel part of the jack bracket. I kinda think the existing screws are 3/16, so you could use 1/4" lag screws to replace them. The Lag screw have a hex head, not Phillips as you probably have.

As for the gap, mine has had that since 1988. Never a problem. My guess is someone stripped the screw out trying to close that gap.

Wayne

Perfect suggestion Reddog! I will keep it simple and just grab some lag bolts at the hardware store. I might even squirt some glue before I run them in.

Thanks again!

I think the only thing you will get from the glue is a mess, I would not use it. I would use a flat washer on each of the bolts replaced.

Two concerns I would have; drill only the bracket hole larger (if needed) and not the TC, and do not over tighten the new bolts.

Wayne